Plastic Transitions

I'm trying to find a source for plastic body tube transitions/reducers. I need one to reduce from a BT-60 to a BT-55 with approx. a 1.25 transition length between the shoulders. The TA5560A would be the one, but it's balsa and I need plastic for this build.

Any suggestions?

Make a paper one and fiber glass it maybe? I would probably put CRs made of paper wound arount the Bt55 then stuff it into the BT60, add the paper transition and CA harden it or epoxy and .75 oz fiberglass (packages of K&S light is available at many hobby shops for small jobs). My SA-3 Goa has an 11inch transiton on the sustainer that goes from BT50 to BT60 and is two layers of cardstock soaked in CA, its survived two flights so far.

I currently 3D print most of my transitions. If you have access to a 3D printer, I would recommend giving it a shot.

The OOP Estes kit “Vanguard Eagle” used a Bt-60 to Bt-55 plastic reducer.
I have no idea if Estes has any separate pieces available or whether they would sell you one if they did.

This kit often shows up on e-bay at variously ridicules prices but it might be possible for you to locate a crash damaged version of this rocket or an incomplete kit that you could purchase cheaply enough to make it worthwhile.

Well worse comes to worse, I can use the balsa transition. BMS has them. Looks like I need a drill press handy for that though. I've seen the plastic ones for sale, but not the one I need. Didn't know if there was a source for plastic transitions and nosecones like there is for the balsa ones.

Estes does have a plastic 55/60 transition that they use in the Laser Lance and Loadstar II kits, as well as some older OOP kits. Unfortunately, you'd probably have to buy the kit to get it.

Injection molded cones and transitions require expensive tooling to make so you won't find many from smaller vendors. 3D printing is certainly an option though the printed parts won't have the look-n-feel of the Estes parts. But unless you are doing a clone and trying to keep it authentically built, a well-finished balsa cone will be indistinguishable on the final model. Hint: you can get a great finish by coating the balsa with West System or Aeropoxy laminating epoxy and sanding while it's still on the lathe or drill press you use to turn the part. Paper transitions are a lot more trouble IMO - unless you glass them up with a layer of fiberglass cloth and resin, they are easily dented/crimped in flight or from hangar rash, and there's always a seam to deal with.

You can always call Estes and ask Christine to check the spare parts box for a Loadstar II transition. She is such a blessing.

If it helps, I know the e2x black diamond has the exact transition I need. But 20.00 for a transition seems excessive lol.

Contact Estes and see if they will sell you that transition piece.

Seeking clarification or The Final Word....
I have students at our school build rockets each year. White plastic parts are a very good choice for us.
I try to buy in bulk.

Low power plastic transitions are not available in bulk or even assortment packs?

j-blueridge said:

Seeking clarification or The Final Word....
I have students at our school build rockets each year. White plastic parts are a very good choice for us.
I try to buy in bulk.

Low power plastic transitions are not available in bulk or even assortment packs?

Click to expand...

No plastic transitions that I have found. At least not in variety or bulk. Balsa Machining Service makes them in… wait for it… balsa! Not the same but it is an option. And they produce school kits. I'm sure they could help you. But again, they'd be balsa not plastic. If I find anything useful I'll post it here in the future.

Kreugon,
Thanks for the quick response!
I use BMS extensively for tubes, lugs, center rings and more.

Their white paper tubes means I can avoid spray paint with students. White Out can be used as a balsa fin filler and base "paint"... fast-drying.
White plastic nose cones and transitions would allow us to skip more filling and sanding while promoting the use of Sharpies and other colorization methods.

Lastly, and perhaps more to what you were doing recently, some seniors want to have staging ignition gases pass through the transition to an engine above.
Solid balsa can be a pain. While the plastic might melt, they like to go for altitude and a second flight is not really part of the plan.

You can find the Loadstar II online for about $14-15 including shipping if you are really hell bent on the plastic transition. The transition is black which might mess up some of your artistic plans.

Presumably some of the other parts from the kit (fins, tubes, etc etc) might come in handy elsewhere on the rocket?

I make transitions from 110# cardstock and Bristol board (or cereal box cardboard). My design is a little more complex but makes a really solid piece:

Use a section of coupler stock the length of the transition. In your case this would be the CT-55 stock.

On the large end use two centering rings to put a length of CT-60 for the larger shoulder.

Glue the paper transition into place. I design my own (I figure out the dimensions using a spreadsheet and then draw the transition with Adobe Illustrator - I draw the centering rings at the same time and are then laminated to the cardboard).

Once the glue is dry, coat the transition with thin CA, let dry and sand smooth. The resulting transition will be hollow, light, tough and ready to prime and paint.

The reason I use custom drawn transitions is that the template that comes in the Estes Designer's box is for the BT to BT, but you want the smaller end to be the diameter of the coupler, which is smaller than the corresponding body tube.

cardstock and cardboard transitions have been around and used extensively for decades. they are lighter then Plastic or Balsa transitions and when finished can't be distingushed from any other type. Further they need no more "reinforcing" then Thin CA soaking if that. Most of the Transitions in the size being discussed I wouldn't even use the CA, simply prime and paint the bare cardstock.
They do take a little more time to produce but in the long run are WAY cheaper then either balsa or plasitc options.

If you must use a balsa transition getting a center hole for upper stage coupling is really not that difficult at all. While drilling out a pass-through Hole is easier with a drill, it can be done without power tools just need a good long needle, round and Half round files to enlarge the openings to fit the tube to be passed.

Kruegon said:

I'm trying to find a source for plastic body tube transitions/reducers. I need one to reduce from a BT-60 to a BT-55 with approx. a 1.25 transition length between the shoulders. The TA5560A would be the one, but it's balsa and I need plastic for this build.

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Kruegon, if you need plastic, the only sources are:
Existing vintage examples, re-issued Estes parts from new upcoming kits, or 3D printing options. Everything else, is not plastic. Your best bet is Shapeways, and at that scale it should be a cheaper side, relatively speaking.
Look and feel can be changed to whatever you want with finishing those printed parts, but it will be plastic. This when no other plastic option exists, then not only being the best game in town , but the only one for true plastic, in this case nylon. They can be made hollow and light too. In fact, lighter than blowmolding due to its strength, allowing for thinner walls, AND only 75 percent of the volume of the shape is its mass, due to the nature of the process.