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Got another BT-55 done tonight in 2.3oz stuff. I have a few more weights of cloth on order that should be here this week.:)
I'm getting good at prepping my work area and knowing exactly how the layup is going to go down.
From start to finish, this one took me no more than 20 Minutes. :w:

BT-55 Layup 2.3oz 001.jpg

I love the Weave Pattern!
BT-55 Layup 2.3oz 002.jpg
 
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TopRamen said:
Thanks.
I really cleaned up my work area first, and as far as I can tell, I did'nt get any Cat furs in this one.
Click to expand...

Thats what I learned from John Coker and Wayco..your work area has to look like it is never used to keep the focus on your project visually .

Kenny
 
KenRico said:
Thats what I learned from John Coker and Wayco..your work area has to look like it is never used to keep the focus on your project visually .

Kenny
Click to expand...


It's funny how much that helps!
I have a decent supply of Vellum Paper that an Architect friend of my Moms gave to her, and she in turn gave to me. I use it to cover my Bench, but for this layup I put down a clean sheet to cover up any of the scuffs or pencil marks on the stuff that has been on the bench for a couple of weeks. I did my cutting and rolling right on the clean piece of Vellum, and when I was done just threw it away.
 
Forum Member tfish sent me a sample of Peel-Ply, and this piece of Tube to demonstrate what it does exactly.
The Peel-Ply does indeed have a texture, quite like that of the lighter weight cloth that I have been using, which is why in all of my reading about it I was confused as to what Peel-Ply did.
He said this is about 5oz. cloth. You can see the obvious difference.

Peel-Ply Illustrated 001.jpg

Peel-ply does still have a weave pattern, about the same density as the 2oz. glass cloth.

Peel-Ply Illustrated 003.jpg

2.3 oz. Cloth on a BT-55, there would be no benefit to using the Peel-Ply at this light weight.:

BT-55 Layup 2.3oz 002.jpg

I do have 6 and 9 oz. Cloth, and now I can use them to try out the Peel-Ply piece that Tfish sent. I also have some 5oz. on order, so now that I understand what Peel-Ply is and is for, I will try out some heavier cloth.
I don't think I'll be needing a tube this heavy anytime soon, but I have a good Idea to make some really thin Fins with balsa sandwiched between the 5 or 6 oz cloth and Peel-Ply.

Thanks again tfish!!!
 
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Weighed my BT-60 Based Scratch Build D-Region Tomahawk today and am quite pleased. This weight is before Paint and Chute and Motor, but it is pretty good in my opinion. It is Glassed with 2 or 2.3oz cloth.


D-Reg #1944 004.jpgD-Reg #1944 001.jpgD-Reg #1944 002.jpg
 
Time to do the Estes Centuri Kit # 3232 in 2oz.:)

Glassing Estes Centuri #3232 Kit 006.jpg

Glassing Estes Centuri #3232 Kit 009.jpg

I made an undersized centering ring, then covered it in Teflon tape and inserted it into the slotted section to maintain round during the glassing.
Estes lightweight tubes always warp at the slots, as anyone who has built the Crossfire ISX will understand.
I opened up the slots with an emery board first to account for the Glassing of the fins. It will still require more final fitting after I cut out the fg on the slots. It will be much easier after glassing and sealing because I can use a File as opposed to an emery board.
Glassing Estes Centuri #3232 Kit 001.jpgGlassing Estes Centuri #3232 Kit 003.jpg
 
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Looks great, how do you minimize the overlap that would cause a seam?
 
accpool said:
Looks great, how do you minimize the overlap that would cause a seam?
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes, there is a Seam, but I'll simply mix up some JB Weld and rub that into it, then sand it once it is cured. After primer it will be invisible.

The Seam 001.jpg
 
The Weather is nice enough today that I was able to use Bondo Spot & Glazing Putty on the Seams instead of JB Weld.
The Bondo lets off some horrendous Vapors and I won't use it indoors. That is actually why I like the JB Weld in the winter when it is too cold to go work outside. Bondo is much easier to apply and sand, so that's great.\


BondoSeamFGC 009.jpg
 
The Bondo works great at filling in the edge, but after a coat of primer, the Bondo will adhere better. It may be smooth enough after Primer and sanding, but if it needs another line of Bondo that's fine. Sure beats filling spirals.:)

Bondo 002.jpg
 
KenRico said:
I tried to do a Coker style lay up but tried to use wax paper instead of butcher paper. It was messy and the glass seemed to pull sideways and try to deform as i was trying to tight roll it on the table. Also the end caps were a bit ackward to assemble and seat to overwrap the tube an inch.

Also tried to do composite fins Coker style, but folded a length of mylar across leading edge to make seamless and weighted down with porcelain squares and bricks instead of bagging.

Tube had dry spots and voids and pinholes. .but overall was happy with the result for 1st time - was usuable and weighed considerably less than FG tube and Blue Tube.

The fins did not come out with seamless leading edges because the mylar shifted slightly. .and there were some dry spots voids pinholes and the edges were lifting.

After painting and cristening as my daughters Mega Der Purple Max and it flew on a H400 vMax outta the gate.

Really like the elasticity and some bounce to the tube after a single wrap, will do my other pro series builds the same way. Next time will use 3m to stick the wrap and then whet out, will twist fg tight at ends and rubber band instead of using end caps and cut off last 1/4 inch of tube. Picked up a food sealer so may try to vacuum bag fins or may just do one side at a time weighted again.

Overall with in improving strength of a paper tube but without most of the weight penalty of substituting FW FG tubes or blue tube is worth it.

Kenny
Click to expand...

I used a food saver/SealAMeal to vac bag the fins on my L2 madcow frenzy. Be aware that some home food baggers require bags with a waffle texture to allow the air to flow out. This leaves a deep texture on one side that will require heavy sanding. Not a big deal, but having straight Mylar bags (cheaper too) would be excellent, so if you're in the market, consider one capable of sealing those rather than the brands you'll find at costco/target. Also, I had the same experience as you with my first glassup of a tube. Used john's method with Mylar overwrap and had to skin-coat with ballooned epoxy. Will try tfish's method next to see if it's any easier...think it may use more epoxy. The results in john's video are amazing, not giving up, just gotta get better.
 
I tried Tony Alocaer's (sorry if its misspelled Tony) method the wrapped it with mylar film. I too got minor voids and pinhole that required filling still very usable results though. Maybe soon I will order some peel ply. As for sanding my tube I have made plugs that fit thr tube ends and chuck them up in my woodworking lathe.
 
Here's a before and after glassing weight for a 28" BT-50 tube with 2oz. Cloth. Only added 11g.

24mmMDTRI 001.jpgAfterGlassWeight24mmMD 001.jpg
 
soopirV said:
I used a food saver/SealAMeal to vac bag the fins on my L2 madcow frenzy. Be aware that some home food baggers require bags with a waffle texture to allow the air to flow out. This leaves a deep texture on one side that will require heavy sanding. Not a big deal, but having straight Mylar bags (cheaper too) would be excellent, so if you're in the market, consider one capable of sealing those rather than the brands you'll find at costco/target. Also, I had the same experience as you with my first glassup of a tube. Used john's method with Mylar overwrap and had to skin-coat with ballooned epoxy. Will try tfish's method next to see if it's any easier...think it may use more epoxy. The results in john's video are amazing, not giving up, just gotta get better.
Click to expand...

After flying it on a H400-vMax, shredded it on a H550ST . Or at least the fins - the body tube and nosecone are fully intact..a testament to the strength of the tube.

Will try to roll some 8 inch long mmt with a wrap and will also wrap the paper tubes when i build the other Estes Pro Series birds.

Kenny
 
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Tried something new today.
Setting the glassed tube outside in the 70 degree sun and breeze.:)
It seems to be curing quickly, and of course a couple of gnats landed on it as their final resting place but they will sand down smooth.
This is my Estes D-Region Tomahawk. I did it in 1.5oz. then made a strip of 5oz. that I wrapped around the base of the fin can to make sure that it never ever splits at the seam.
The red thing at the tail is just a BT-55 coupler that I stuck over the threads on the Estes retainer to mask it off. I have planty of coupler stock so it's not a waste of a coupler.


D-Region glassed 2015-04-13 001.jpg
 

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