Rattle Can Spray Paint technology

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Kirk G

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Is there a lower temperature threshold for which you should spray cardboard Skill Level 3 model kits in the indoor garage?
I'm thinking that a lower temperature might either freeze the fine spray or gunk up the nozzzle, or something like that...

Whenever I try it, i frequently get long paint hairs (about the size of an inch worm) that seem to coat the surface evenly, but roughly...
 
Try warming the paint can in some warm (NOT HOT) water first

It will also help if the rocket was regular room temp
 
Is there a lower temperature threshold for which you should spray cardboard Skill Level 3 model kits in the indoor garage?
I'm thinking that a lower temperature might either freeze the fine spray or gunk up the nozzzle, or something like that...

Whenever I try it, i frequently get long paint hairs (about the size of an inch worm) that seem to coat the surface evenly, but roughly...

If in doubt, read the instructions on the can...

They're not just "whistling Dixie" by saying "paint between 50 and 90 degrees F" or whatever...

If you want to experiment outside those temp ranges, well, I'd suggest doing it as a paint test-- not trying to actually paint the rocket.

You can "get around" some of the low-temp problems by warming the can in hot tap water for about 15-20 minutes before painting (thins the paint viscosity and increases the latent heat of evaporation which keeps the propellant pressure up in the can as the paint is sprayed on (which causes the propellant to boil off, "refrigerating" the can as a side effect-- the higher the spray pressure, the finer the droplet size will be, and lower viscosity has a similar effect, and flows out better on the surface).

You can take your warm rocket (from inside the house) and warmed paint out into a cold garage, spray it, and bring it back inside once the paint is applied. If that will upset the better half due to the fumes of drying paint, you can probably let it "flash off" (tack up essentially) so long as the garage isn't TOO cold, and then bring it inside... once it really gets cold, it will sit there a LONG time without really drying due to the lack of heat to evaporate the solvents and drive them out of the paint. "Flashing off" the paint by allowing it to "tack up" will allow a lot of the solvents to evaporate outside, then bringing it inside will allow the warmth of the house to evaporate the rest over time, hopefully at a slow enough rate not to stink the place up (depending on how tight your house is, how big, how much airflow, how big the rocket, etc.)

Also, for cold conditions, lacquers work better than enamels... their hotter solvents are "slower" in cold weather than they would be in hot weather, but still "faster" than the "soft" solvents used in enamels.

If it's below zero or your garage is around freezing or something, I'd DEFINITELY wait until you have better conditions... or you can "make your own" by making a "painting booth" from plastic drop cloths or a big "refrigerator size" cardboard box or something like that which you can heat up somehow (hair dryer, one of those hot oil electric radiators, etc.) and keep warm (SAFELY-- ie don't burn your house down or leave space heaters unattended or something like that-- remove the heat source before starting to paint so that flammable propellant/paint gases don't ignite accidentally!) after the painting is done. Folks have done this sort of thing before in order to "stretch" their painting season sufficiently... It doesn't have to be "hot" or even "warm" inside-- just 'warm enough' to do the painting (above the minimum temps listed on the can).

Just remember-- SAFETY FIRST!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
Last edited:
Ditto OL Jr:

It is very possible to paint outside in low temperatures by having both the paint (Spray can) and the model (or other surface being painted) at or above 60°f when applied, Then RUSH the painted part back into a heated house.

OBTW: Using HOT tap water is perfectly safe for warming your Spary Cans. Just don't boil the water, If you can put your hand in the hot water it's OK for your spray can.
 
If in doubt, read the instructions on the can...

They're not just "whistling Dixie" by saying "paint between 50 and 90 degrees F" or whatever...

If you want to experiment outside those temp ranges, well, I'd suggest doing it as a paint test-- not trying to actually paint the rocket.

You can "get around" some of the low-temp problems by warming the can in hot tap water for about 15-20 minutes before painting (thins the paint viscosity and increases the latent heat of evaporation which keeps the propellant pressure up in the can as the paint is sprayed on (which causes the propellant to boil off, "refrigerating" the can as a side effect-- the higher the spray pressure, the finer the droplet size will be, and lower viscosity has a similar effect, and flows out better on the surface).

You can take your warm rocket (from inside the house) and warmed paint out into a cold garage, spray it, and bring it back inside once the paint is applied. If that will upset the better half due to the fumes of drying paint, you can probably let it "flash off" (tack up essentially) so long as the garage isn't TOO cold, and then bring it inside... once it really gets cold, it will sit there a LONG time without really drying due to the lack of heat to evaporate the solvents and drive them out of the paint. "Flashing off" the paint by allowing it to "tack up" will allow a lot of the solvents to evaporate outside, then bringing it inside will allow the warmth of the house to evaporate the rest over time, hopefully at a slow enough rate not to stink the place up (depending on how tight your house is, how big, how much airflow, how big the rocket, etc.)

Also, for cold conditions, lacquers work better than enamels... their hotter solvents are "slower" in cold weather than they would be in hot weather, but still "faster" than the "soft" solvents used in enamels.

If it's below zero or your garage is around freezing or something, I'd DEFINITELY wait until you have better conditions... or you can "make your own" by making a "painting booth" from plastic drop cloths or a big "refrigerator size" cardboard box or something like that which you can heat up somehow (hair dryer, one of those hot oil electric radiators, etc.) and keep warm (SAFELY-- ie don't burn your house down or leave space heaters unattended or something like that-- remove the heat source before starting to paint so that flammable propellant/paint gases don't ignite accidentally!) after the painting is done. Folks have done this sort of thing before in order to "stretch" their painting season sufficiently... It doesn't have to be "hot" or even "warm" inside-- just 'warm enough' to do the painting (above the minimum temps listed on the can).

Just remember-- SAFETY FIRST!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)


I setup a "booth" with 10' x 10' sides (plastic paint cloth). Closed the edges with clothespins and would pre-heat the garage before I shot. It would allow diffused light through well so I put up spots around the thing. But don't do like me. Wear a good mask and maybe some coveralls. I got too excited and tried a test piece. It worked well and I went wild. I painted my 7.5' rocket red (plenty-o-paint). I also forgot my mask and cover. I had red-ish hair and "snot" for a couple days. Not to mention the rather unpleaseant buzz from the solvents (accidental huffing). :facepalm: Don't want the think what my lungs looked like... Last part, I opened garage door to let out the solvents for a minute to let the solvents diffuse then buttoned it back up and reheated the area for a while. Not sure its really the right thing to do without forced ventilation but...

Ole Dog

image.jpg
 
I setup a "booth" with 10' x 10' sides (plastic paint cloth). Closed the edges with clothespins and would pre-heat the garage before I shot. It would allow diffused light through well so I put up spots around the thing. But don't do like me. Wear a good mask and maybe some coveralls. I got too excited and tried a test piece. It worked well and I went wild. I painted my 7.5' rocket red (plenty-o-paint). I also forgot my mask and cover. I had red-ish hair and "snot" for a couple days. Not to mention the rather unpleaseant buzz from the solvents (accidental huffing). :facepalm: Don't want the think what my lungs looked like... Last part, I opened garage door to let out the solvents for a minute to let the solvents diffuse then buttoned it back up and reheated the area for a while. Not sure its really the right thing to do without forced ventilation but...

Ole Dog

Nice...

BTDT... I paint large farm equipment from time to time, and usually end up with blue boogers or green or red, have to wash my glasses in mineral spirits, tinted hair, and the rest. You're absolutely right about the need for a respirator (or at least filter-- that's what your nose is without one, which is why the tinted boogers). If one is using enamels with isocyanate hardeners, a FULL-FLOW external air-supply type regulator is ESSENTIAL to maintaining one's health-- without it you just might end up pushing up daisies... that's why I don't use hardeners, because I don't have such a setup. In the end, that's really the best setup, though a good chemical absorbing type is certainly acceptable for most "regular" (non-hardener) type paints... (always read the instructions and requirements). Barring that, even a little "dust mask" will at least stop paint particulates from getting into your nose and respiratory system, though it will do NOTHING to stop the "solvent high" you mentioned.

Forced air ventilation for the "paint booth" is probably, as you mentioned, the best idea-- problem is, doing that in the winter is rather problematical; you'd be losing enormous amounts of heat in a lot of climates! Containing the particulates and solvents to the extent possible is probably the "least worst alternative" under those conditions, but as you mentioned, a good respirator to minimize exposure IS important!

No rocket finish is worth ruining your health over...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Spray painting in a garage with automobiles present not recommended unless one has a completely sealed spray booth. Overspray will hit the cars no matter what. Acetone will cut the rattle can enamels off the car and leave the finish intact but I will not ever
risk the verbal beating I got from my spouse ever again. Kurt
 
Heh, yeah, same issue here, with my "favorite" (</sarcasm>) paint, the Rustoleum fluorescent yellow. I had my vehicle covered so it didn't get painted, but everything else in the garage wound up with a yellow dust on it even though I had decent circulation through the garage. I built the PVC skeleton for a paint booth last night, now I have to wrap it in plastic and hook up the fan I bought, as I'm hopefully no more than than a week away from painting my Excel DD (given that I'd like to fly it in 2.5 weeks and have a lot of spray painting to do).
 
Spray painting in a garage with automobiles present not recommended unless one has a completely sealed spray booth. Overspray will hit the cars no matter what. Acetone will cut the rattle can enamels off the car and leave the finish intact but I will not ever
risk the verbal beating I got from my spouse ever again. Kurt

Regular mineral spirits will too and are far less "hot" than acetone... usually it's just "dry spray" that might have enough stickiness left to "stick" to the paint, but it won't make too much of a mess...

Needless to say, it's FAR better not to risk it anyway... leave the cars in the driveway where they belong... LOL:)

Always best to avoid the ire of the better half as well, no matter what you do.

Later! OL JR :)
 
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