First FG build -- what do people use for injecting fillets?

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Bat-mite

Rocketeer in MD
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And where do you get them?

Also, I have some rail buttons with machine screws, and some PEM nuts. If I glue the PEM nuts into the airframe, then the motor mount assembly won't be able to slide into the airframe. But I can't see a way of doing it after the MMT is in there. ???

I can't use wood screws and screw into the CRs because they are very thin.

I welcome all suggestions.
 
I use Monoject 12 ml syringes from eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161389626042?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

As far as rail buttons, depending on rocket size, I have cut the screws shorter and even trimmed the length of PEM nuts. Also use a bit of CA to secure the screw. Really depends on the situation. I have also seen on some kits where the forward CR is notched so you can fit the MMT assembly into the air frame to get it past the rail button screw. You can also wait until the MMT is assembled and install rail buttons afterwards. You have lots of options and I'm sure others will chime in!
 
10 ml syringes from the pharmacy. Free. They don't have a nice pointy tip on them but they work well enough. If you really want a longer tip get some centrifuge pipettes and those work to extend the nozzle (and are cheap). Additionally, the pipettes also make excellent tips for CA bottles.
 
What rocket are you building? Not all fiberglass rockets are created equal.
 
Am I the only one seeing my recent post here as post no.1? WTH is happening here?!?
 
You are not alone!
Some weird voodoo happening around here, let's see where this post goes...
[Edit] Looking at the post times, they align with my clock. OP is on the East Coast, one hour ahead of me - think it's a time zone issue.
 
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10 ml syringes from the pharmacy. Free. They don't have a nice pointy tip on them but they work well enough. If you really want a longer tip get some centrifuge pipettes and those work to extend the nozzle (and are cheap). Additionally, the pipettes also make excellent tips for CA bottles.

Whoa, free? From what pharmacy? And why are they free?
 
John,,
Usually the top rail guide is above the motor mount completely and not an issue at all...
The bottom rail guide is only an inch or 2 from the base of the airframe ( according to the diameter of the airframe )...
Assuming your dealing with 3 CR's,, that's pretty common..
Lay out and careful measurement and marking of the mm tube is very important....
The top CR is epoxied 3/8" or 1/2" down from the top of the mm tube with the stainless eye already in it,, hardware ground so all fits well...
now epoxy the next CR at the position on the MM tube so that when you put the fins through the airframe the forward most part of the fin will touch that 2nd CR...
On this 2nd CR epoxy a good fillet around the top of the CR but not the bottom,, the bottom must remain clean so that the fin will go all the way into the corner between the CR and the MM tube..
When your doing this marking and laying out with your pencil,, the motor retention must be slipped onto the mm tube as that's what determines how far into the airframe the mm tube goes..
Now you have the mm tube with 2 CR epoxied on and you know exactly how far into the airframe this assembly goes..
Take the 3rd CR,, drill 2 very small holes 180 Degrees apart, opposite each other,, put a 2" long black thin Sheetrock screw into the holes,, just a bit,, 1/4" or so,, enough so they won't come out till you take them out..
Now slide the MM tube assembly into the airframe to the correct depth,, put the 3rd CR onto the mm tube so you can use the 2 screws to position it,, I use a very large hose clamp from Home Depot and put it around the
base of the airframe right on-top of the 3rd lowest CR,, now nothing can move all is solid and in the correct place,, check and recheck....
Stand the airframe up,, use black electrical tape to tape a syringe to a 1/2" dowel,, mix a batch of epoxy and fill the syringe with epoxy,, have someone else hold the airframe and shine a flashlight down into it,,
reach down into the airframe with the syringe on the dowel and push the plunger with another dowel,, Do not get any epoxy on the inside of the motor mount tube,, leave the airframe vertical till hard,, then drill 2 holes in the airframe 180 degrees apart dead between the top CR and the 2nd CR, they are usually very close to each other,, invert the airframe,, inject these 2 holes,, the bottom of the top ring is now done, wait till hard,, turn the airframe right-side up again, inject the same 2 holes,, wait till hard the top of the 2nd ring is done,,
Lay the airframe horizontally with one hole up and 1 hole down,, in the hole facing down, shoot a little epoxy and cover with masking tape, wait till hard,, if you worked clean,, when the epoxy is hard and you peel the masking tape that hole has vanished..
Do the second hole..........
Now,,, all is hard and solid,,,,,, pull the hose clamp off the airframe from around where the 3rd, lowest CR is,, grab the 2 -- long Sheetrock screws and pull the 3rd CR out,, it will come right out.. you now have total access to the lower rail guides position on the inside of the tube.... I use a blind nut or you may know it as a Tee nut,, turned upside down so the flat face faces the inside of the airframe, drill the hole for the rail guide,, put some grease on the threads of the screw so epoxy won't stick to it.. put the screw in through the hole and into the flat face of the Tee nut tighten very gently,, just a touch firm, you don't want to pull so hard that your digging into the glass airframe, use any epoxy you like mixed with chopped or milled fiberglass and make it fairly thick,, embed the entire back of the Tee nut all around, under all over,,, when this is hard you have a steel thread to screw your rail guides into and change them when ever you wish,, in order to rip this rail guide off you will have to exert enough force to tear out a chuck of the airframe the size of the mound of thickened epoxy you put around the Tee nut,,, that's not gong to happen,, this is the best most solid mount I've ever seen and is completely removable ( the rail guide ) in case you'd like to change them... I install the top rail guide the same way..
Now you can put the 3rd CR back in and epoxy or do the fins if you wish and use a very thin dowel to aid in spreading the epoxy on the internal fillets.....................

Remember John,,
A glass build is all about "Order of events"...........

Teddy
 
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Depending on how deep the aft centering ring is recessed, you can install the pem behind it after everything is assembled. Same goes for the upper button, just place that a bit above the fore centering ring. I just tack it to a stick of some sort with a dot of c/a to get it into position.
Syringes are not free everywhere, I've tried. I do have a great local source though, and they ship as well. I use these, but they have other options as well.
https://www.sciplus.com/p/60CC-THUMB-GRIP-SYRINGE_49257
P1030040.jpg
 
The Pharmacy syringes are for dosing out liquids for kids - more effective than the old graduated tube thing that they sometimes have. Granted, this will vary from pharmacy to pharmacy but if you ask you never know they might hook you up.
 
Depending on how deep the aft centering ring is recessed, you can install the pem behind it after everything is assembled. Same goes for the upper button, just place that a bit above the fore centering ring. I just tack it to a stick of some sort with a dot of c/a to get it into position.
Syringes are not free everywhere, I've tried. I do have a great local source though, and they ship as well. I use these, but they have other options as well.
https://www.sciplus.com/p/60CC-THUMB-GRIP-SYRINGE_49257
View attachment 248692


Chad,,
I didn't get a close look at this pic before..
That's really a nice clean build,,,
Very meticulous work...
Really nice man...

Teddy
 
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