Home Made Controller??

Are you saying that no current will get to the "ready" LED so it won't light? Sorry, but this is all new to me.

Click to expand...

Rob that's exactly what I'm saying.

The relays allow you to use those Borg-Warner switches by isolating the igniter circuit from the "ready" LED. The other alternative is to use a DPST switch. I edited the schematic as shown only if you insisted on using those Borg-Warner switches.

Steve G

sghioto said:

Rob that's exactly what I'm saying.

The relays allow you to use those Borg-Warner switches by isolating the igniter circuit from the "ready" LED. The other alternative is to use a DPST switch. I edited the schematic as shown only if you insisted on using those Borg-Warner switches.

Steve G

Click to expand...

I am not 'insistent' on using the SPST switches, but I can't find lighted DPST toggle switches and rocker switches just don't have the same "coolness factor". So, now I am trying to figure how to wire a relay.

Here what I got for a 4 pin relay:

lead 85 -> ground
lead 30 -> ready switch
lead 87 -> ignitor
lead 86 -> launch button

Did I get that right?

Thanks, Rob.

Did I get that right?

Click to expand...

Not quite.
One correct way is:

lead 85 -> ground
lead 86 -> ready switch
lead 30 -> igniter
lead 87 -> launch button

Terminals 85 and 86 are the relay coil. These two can be reversed such that 86 > ground and 85 > ready switch.

Terminals 30 and 87 are the relay contacts. These two can also be reversed such that 30 > launch button and 87 > igniter

Steve G

sghioto said:

Not quite.
One correct way is:

lead 85 -> ground
lead 86 -> ready switch
lead 30 -> igniter
lead 87 -> launch button

Terminals 85 and 86 are the relay coil. These two can be reversed such that 86 > ground and 85 > ready switch.

Terminals 30 and 87 are the relay contacts. These two can also be reversed such that 30 > launch button and 87 > igniter

Steve G

Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks. I get it now. I was thinking that if current was going through 86 -> 85, then it would also cross over to 30.

The way you listed makes sense. Thank you very very much.

Rob.

A couple more quick questions:

With the relays in place, are the Blocking Diodes needed?
As each switch, relay and ignitor has it's own grounding wire, what is the best way to tie them all together?

Sorry for all questions, especially since these probably belong in a circuit forum. So thanks in advance.

Thanks, Rob.

With the relays in place, are the Blocking Diodes needed?

Click to expand...

Yes!

Lets say you hook up igniter #1 only and turn on all three relays. Without the diodes all three LEDs will light when the continuity switch is thrown :y:
This will happen regardless of which igniter is connected.

None of the ground connections are critical. I would just loop a wire through the ground terminal of each relay and the ground tab on each lighted switch, with just one wire connected back to battery negative. Run a separate ground from the battery for each igniter lead.

After a little bit of reviewing you can eliminate the diodes by moving the launch switch to the negative side of each relay coil while maintaining isolation on the continuity LEDs.

Steve G

Thank you very much. I couldn't have done it without your help.

I tweaked the diagram, added a 4th Ignitor and removed the internal power connection. So, here it is:



Thanks, Rob.

You're welcome. Looks good. Now, just need to build it.

Uh oh, spoke too soon. Just noticed that all relay contacts are shown in the closed position.

Steve G

Fixed it. Thanks.




Thanks, Rob.

Now for the build questions:

as the power from the Arm switch connects to the 4 Relays and 4 Ready switches, can/should I use a Terminal Block with jumpers like this?



and can/should I do the same for all the ground wire?


Thanks again, Rob.

You can for the igniter grounds and the common connection on the relay contacts. For the ready switches loop a wire from switch to switch with one wire back to the terminal strip, same thing for the common side of the relay coils to the launch switch. Recommend using "crimp on" connectors for the relay terminals. This allows for easy replacement.

Steve G