CJ's "PUNISHER" build!

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just a quick question cj is there enough motor tube to slide it down a bit and put a tailcone retainer on ? That would look sweet !
I think so. Looks like a 12" MM. If so, and the Aero Pack TA5430 needs 0.74" of MM protruding from the airframe, you will have ~0.5" of MM past the forward CR. It does look sweet with the tail cone and sims 5% higher!
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reserved for continuity... QUOTE]


Remember to check back on page 4 for additions to the build .....I reserved several posts & have begun to fill them in.



Tailcone usage:

If you wish to add the tailcone..you can call TIM and he will add a bit to MM tube so you can. {if it is not long enough, I don't know that one}
 
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Don, are you going to make the Punisher decals available?

There are reportedly 100 of these rascals being shipped in connection with the Black Saturday and Wacky Wednesday sales.
 
How much BP did you use to separate the NC? Probably not much. Also, protecting the main chute . . . burrito wrap?
 
How much BP did you use to separate the NC? Probably not much. Also, protecting the main chute . . . burrito wrap?

Yes burrito.....
Just 1.4 g of BP for apogee [which is pretty common amount used for motor deploy] & 1 g for the main. 3 pins for NC.
I will reduce the BP for apogee when flying large motors as the interior space gets smaller. Post#97 had full flight report, using an I-211 first flight.
25ft Kevlar & main 15ft same all 1/4in. Fly around trees & this increases chance of getting it back if I land in one!
 
HED or nose cone dual deploy:

This is the unique part of this kit [besides being made entirely of lightweight thin wall components], which allows for a shorter airframe than normal in a DD Kit. No need for a payload bay or extra coupler/av-bay.
The coupler/shoulder for nose cone becomes the av-bay & you deploy the main out of the cone.
Lighter rocket...higher flights with smaller motors, more economical flying.

This new polymer cone is thinner wall the first several inches to accept a regular airframe coupler. Then coupler hits a built in lip/wall where the NC wall becomes thicker all the way to the front.
There is no way the coupler/shoulder/av-bay can move any further forward once it engages the lip as you can see here:

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Kit comes with the new Phenolic high temp. tip. It is threaded to accept a 1/4 in. eyebolt, which is also included along with the proper size washer for holding it in place in the cone. The tip has a shoulder to keep it centered in the cone.

Attach a loop of recovery cord to eyebolt. I used 2.5 feet of 3/8 Kevlar.
You will need pliers to hold the eyebolt, then reach inside and screw tip on. [unless you have small hands that fit.]

DSCN2935.jpg DSCN3452.jpg
 
Note:This is very important, failure to do so & the av-bay fit will be off by the thickness of the front bulk-plate!
The coupler butting up to the lip in NC, will throw off the vent band placement when glued on. If you forget to fit without the BP on, vent band have gap between it and NC!



Place one of the aluminum stepped bulk plates on the coupler.

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Slide into NC until it sits against the lip/stop.
Draw a line around the coupler for taping later. Use a silver sharpie.

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Slide the vent band on coupler, tight to NC.
Draw a second circle around coupler.

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One of the first steps was to slide coupler into fin can and mark it through the slots for 3 equal positions.
Now transfer those to the NC for shear pins & to vent band for breather holes.
 
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Wrap a layer of masking tape around line not facing the NC to keep glue off coupler.
Sand interior of vent band & area on coupler between lines.

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Smear a thin coat of epoxy on area between lines only, NOT on vent band.
Slide vent band on and slowly twist when approaching glue to dispense it evenly.

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Remove tape and clean up any excess glue.
Insert into NC [with bulk-plate on!]and check fit. Adjust if needed for a tight fit. You don't want any gap between the vent band & NC.
Remove and set aside to cure.

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Drill 3 holes on marks previously made on vent band for altimeter readings. I used 3/16...size for your altimeter.
Insert coupler/av-bay into NC and rotate so vent band holes are between shear-pin marks.
Drill 1 hole at a time, one inch from edge of cone....insert pin.....move to next. I use 7/64 bit. [2-256 nylon screw]
Do not try drilling all 3 first, this rarely works.

While this bit is still in drill. [7/64] You need a vent hole on the cone, [think payload here] to relieve internal air pressure,vent goes 1/2 way between tip and the front edge of coupler.
Finally make a key mark on edge between NC and vent band to make finding pin hole easier, when prepping rocket.
Need only be deep enough to see through paint.

Be sure to sand any loose strands that may remain in any holes or inside coupler.

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Don, are you going to make the Punisher decals available?

There are reportedly 100 of these rascals being shipped in connection with the Black Saturday and Wacky Wednesday sales.

Well I guess I can be talked into a few, I see that Stickershock now has some, but not the same design, I like the skull replacing the "u" and it worked out well with CJ's black band, somehow without really talking to much we nailed it.
Sleek and Mean, with a little touch of EVIL, I will be gone till after Christmas, Also have limited vinyl colors to select from, White, Black, Yellow and some holographic stock . Not being a full time decal maker I don't store mass amounts of colors and or buy just what I need at the time. I got decal-ed to death with BSD. hahahahaha and you'll notice the colors I have where also used mostly by BSD. Rough cost would be 15 to 20 dollars for a set ( 1 Punisher decal and (6) skulls for the fins) shipping not included, should not be that much.

After I get back, I will figure out exact price and shipping cost.
 
Is the Punisher going to be a regular item from Wildman or was it just a one time deal? I didn't have the funds to participate in the sales this years but would really like to get one in Feb. for a B-day present to myself.
 
Is the Punisher going to be a regular item from Wildman or was it just a one time deal? I didn't have the funds to participate in the sales this years but would really like to get one in Feb. for a B-day present to myself.

Will be added to regular line-up, see post #87
 
Av-bay/NC shoulder:

The heart of HED/dual deployment out of the nose cone.
All eyebolts now supplied with Wildman Kits are Stainless. Extras can be purchased also.
The lids are aluminum and come with 1 hole in center 1/4in.

I simply drilled a 7/64 hole for ejection charge wires. Rather than 2 as done in the past, I now use one, for both wires, so there is less chance of ejection charge leakage into bay.

DSCN3689.jpg

Sled size is 5 3/4 in. long x 2 7/8in. wide, G-10 plate 1/8in. thick.
I chose a very simple arrangement for this.
RRC3 MissleWorks altimeter on one side, with battery on the rear. Less chance of damaging altimeter if battery comes loose.
There is plenty of room for 2 altimeters & 2 batteries, should you desire.
Rear eyebolt is permanently attached through wall of BP and into a "coupler" nut, threaded rod [1/4in.] is screwed into that.

The large D & M signify drogue and main terminal blocks so I don't have to squint to see the label on altimeter...LOL


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The switch wire for "twist & tape" is long enough the rear BP & sled can be removed wile the switch wire remains in vent hole, further making prep simplified.

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Front BP is held in place with another eyebolt screwed into coupler nut. Later I replaced this with an "eye nut".

Holes for ejection wires are sealed with "sticky tack" putty available in any Big box store [Office Max,Staples,Wal-Mart etc], where school supplies are sold. Generally it is used for holding papers/projects on wall with out leaving marks.

DSCN3719.jpg DSCN3722.jpg
 
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Prepping to fly:

25 ft of cord for fin can/apogee side....15ft of cord for main/nose cone side...all 1/4 in. tubular Kevlar.
One end tied to Y-harness in fin can...other end utilizes quick link for av-bay. Main tied to NC harness & quick link to av-bay.

Main [52in X-chute, Topflight a standard 45 would also work] is attaches via quick link, to loop tied in shockcord 2 ft from front. Folded burrito style in a 12in square nomex. I could not get a 40 in.Recon to fit, so went with above.
To insure main does NOT get stuck in NC, be sure to place all shock cord in FRONT of chute. This will help "pull" chute out of NC.

Insert the folded chute into NC with closed end facing ejection charge, thus preventing burns to chute. Insert shear pins & done.

DSCN3731.jpg DSCN3733.jpg

WORD OF CAUTION:
There is a lip on inside of NC, be sure the cord,or edge of nomex does not get caught on this lip between it and coupler, if it does the coupler will not seat tight. As simple as this sounds, I missed it, and couldn't figure out why I could not close up tight. Several times of removing & replacing the coupler, before the lightbulb came on & I figured it out!:face palm:

DSCN3735.jpg

Highly recommended a 12-15in drogue is used for apogee!

This will prevent the rocket from "streamlining" during descent from apogee & keep the main/NC above the fin can . The fin can is so large in comparison to the payload [just NC] it "may" try to stabilize and come down ballistic dragging the NC at a very high rate of speed, with violent main deploy and very bad results!

By using the small drogue, the fin can drops perfectly vertical below the NC/chute and will land much closer to the pad. A regular DD rocket, the payload tube/NC will create drag and keep a drogue less rocket from stabilizing during descent.

Sooo........ fin can side has a 12in drogue wrapped burrito style in a 9x9 nomex attached 3 feet below the ac-bay/NC, leaving enough room between for my tracker to be taped to shock cord.

Word on that:
Comm_Spec transmitter should have the battery taped in before closing the lid. One wrap will suffice & keep battery from losing contact in case of overzealous ejection charge.

DSCN3736.jpg

Transmitter has antenna coming out of box flush on one side. This side should be against shock cord when taping to it.
wrap transmitter entirely to cord, but leave antenna wire free. I use electrical tape...NEVER.....NEVER...EVER use masking tape of ANY kind!

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I fold and pack shock cord into fin can, followed by nomex/drogue with tracker in last.
Last in.......first out.
You will notice a jump in signal when apogee happens, a plus when flying high enough you cannot see the event.
Rather than stuffing in tracker & antenna, I gently fold or loop the wire, so it is above everything with less chance of becoming tangled.

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I used 1 gram BP in nose for main & 1.4 for apogee.
 
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Last of all, I had a couple of inquiries about how I did the "sexy" NC pointed stripe.

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It was an accident that worked...LOL
Very simple, just wrap some masking tape around the NC like one of the many ribbons used to show you support a cause.
You support the "Punisher" ..........'cause you want to punish the sky!

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Last look...just waiting to fly.


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Good luck to all of you building, flying and enjoying your "Punisher's"!
Any questions during your journey, come back here and ask.
 
just a quick question cj is there enough motor tube to slide it down a bit and put a tailcone retainer on ? That would look sweet !

This was my plan also....I just received the kit today and can confirm that the stock motor tube is long enough to use with a tailcone retainer. Great looking kit!
 
My wife got a package from somewhere on the 17th. Based on how cagey she was when I asked her about the package I was expecting (not rocket related - and missing - gotta deal with that now.) I'm pretty sure the package she got (and hid before I came home) is a Christmas gift for me. I'm HOPING it's a Punisher from the Wacky Wednesday Second Chance Sale. Guess I'll find out next week :)

Can someone who has received theirs weigh the parts and post it so I can update the .ork file I've been playing with?
 
Kit comes with the new Phenolic high temp. tip. It is threaded to accept a 1/4 in. eyebolt, which is also included along with the proper size washer for holding it in place in the cone. The tip has a shoulder to keep it centered in the cone.

Attach a loop of recovery cord to eyebolt. I used 2.5 feet of 3/8 Kevlar.
You will need pliers to hold the eyebolt, then reach inside and screw tip on. [unless you have small hands that fit.]

View attachment 248856 View attachment 248857

I'm quite sure my mitts won't fit in the nose cone.

Thinking something like this might do the trick...assuming they will fit, i.e. won't be too tall (11/16").

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMF5N2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Weird looking vise grips, eh?
 
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Can someone who has received theirs weigh the parts and post it so I can update the .ork file I've been playing with?


Yes...... I would also appreciate if someone with an accurate scale could weigh parts individually ....I'll go back & update the file.

Mine was done with all standard stuff and is a "tank". Even my NC was a prototype, not the version ya'll got.

My final weight ready for pad, stuffed with all gear is 5.3lbs .

I might even build another one.:y:
 
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My big Wildman box came today, complete with Punisher, Dark Star 3, and my L2 attempt motor! Boy am I excited. First fiberglass rocket, first 54mm motor, and first dual deployment for me. Of course this box was nowhere near fitting in my car, so I will have to take the family car to work tomorrow to ferry it home. I have a nice scale and will try to get those components weighed for everyone tomorrow night!
 
Yes...... I would also appreciate if someone with an accurate scale could weigh parts individually ....I'll go back & update the file.

Mine arrived today. Weights as follows:

AF = 20.65 oz
NC = 8.15 (bare)
NC = 9.35 oz (including tip & eye-bolt)
CR1 = 0.30 oz
CR2 = 0.30 oz
Av-bay = 3.85 oz.
Av-bay lid = 2.0 oz each x2
Vent ring = 0.5 oz
MMT = 3.45 oz
Fin = 3.0 oz each x3
Motor Ret. 1.4 oz
 
Well I got my punisher in the wacky Wednesday sale filling black Saturday, with the intention of turning it into a 3" Darkstar (since I missed out on it from black Saturday), two stage. Just gotta get some more fiberglass now. A lot more...
 
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I got my kits and stuff from Wildman also. And would like to add a bit of advice to those building these as a first time fiberglass kit. Use caution while handling the fresh cut parts as they come. The edges WILL bite. I took sandpaper to all the edges and cleaned them up and then washed them to clean off most of the dust. Do this before you start playing with the parts, as we all do, to get a feel for how the parts fit. It can be frustrating to get a small fiberglass splinter and know its there, you can feel it, but can't see it to remove it.

This Punisher kit is TOP QUALITY. And will be great addition to any rocketeers arsenal. It is just the right size and the cool factor of the HED is great.

I see a bit of the AT Mustang in this rocket, so I may paint mine up in that style, maybe swap colors around to be brighter.

Can't wait to see what everyone does with their Punisher!

See ya,
Rod
 
I got my kits and stuff from Wildman also. And would like to add a bit of advice to those building these as a first time fiberglass kit. Use caution while handling the fresh cut parts as they come. The edges WILL bite. I took sandpaper to all the edges and cleaned them up and then washed them to clean off most of the dust. Do this before you start playing with the parts, as we all do, to get a feel for how the parts fit. It can be frustrating to get a small fiberglass splinter and know its there, you can feel it, but can't see it to remove it.

Hah, I wish I saw that a few days ago, says the guy with parallel gashes down the top of his thumb and hand perfectly spaced for a fin slot!
 
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