Electrical Switch - SS-10/10T - Mounting Ideas?

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GregGleason

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I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the SS-10/10T switch in my av bay.

Does anyone have a pic on how these have used?

Greg
 
Can you post a picture of the Switch?

Nevermind, saw your other Thread post. Why that switch?
 
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Can you post a picture of the Switch?

Nevermind, saw your other Thread post. Why that switch?

Pic (for others):

Omron-SS-10[1].jpg
This is a switch recommended by PerfectFlite. It's small and works with a pull-pin. It can be configured as an NO or an NC switch.

Greg
 
Are you planning to epoxy a piece of brass or aluminum tube to the switch for the pin to slide into and depress the plunger to disarm? Any way to mount the switch between the Altimeter and the sled (opposite the wire channels) with the tube for the pin lined up with one of the pressure ports in the av-bay?
 
I don't have a plan finalized. Just a fuzzy notion of what might work.

That's what prompted the question in the first place, to see what people have done in flight articles. I just didn't want to reinvent the wheel, especially if there was a pretty good wheel out there.

Greg
 
With that switch, you are reinventing the wheel. I love Perfectflite and their products, but they need to get with the times regarding switches! Get yourself a Schurter rotary switch and be done with it. That's probably misspelled, by the way.
 
Pic (for others):

View attachment 247003
This is a switch recommended by PerfectFlite. It's small and works with a pull-pin. It can be configured as an NO or an NC switch.

Greg

Hi Greg,

I have a bunch of those switches from PerfectFlight, I was going to use them on my SL100 but opted for the magnetic switch from featherweight. I did however end up coming up with a design which I felt would be a good pace to start. I purchased some brass inserts from Home Depot, they type that are used with nylon water tubing, here is a link as an example, https://www.plumbingsupply.com/compress.html#brassinserts. The idea was to use the native hole in the switch to twist the insert into place with some wire and epoxy. I also purchased a length of brass rod that I was going to cut to length and use as a pull pin for this switch, again I purchased this from Home Depot. I even went as far as to purchase some remove before flight tags https://www.rotary13b1.com/p/1085/Remove-Before-Flight---Keychain---5-pcs.html

I may end up using this in a build down the road but for now I am just so thrilled with the magnetic switch at this point.
 
Too complicated to "fit" it and make it work in your UBER tight bay. I would find something else like post #8 recommendation.
 
Those are similar to the Aerocon offerings.

Greg

Yep, I realized that later after posting, Sorry. BTW have you checked out Landru's site and his pre-printed AV sleds, he has multiple sizes, including some nosecones. I totally understand the challenge and feeling of constructing something yourself, as I am the same type of person, why buy when I can design and build.
 
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I use a similar switch for my first sled with a HiAlt45.

E Bay battery and switch.jpg

The pin was a long finishing nail with the tip ground down. The brass tube was the ink tube from a ball point pen. Alcohol works great for cleaning the ink out.

That sled was in a 2" ID rocket, the ID of the av-bay was slightly less. The switch and altimeter worked perfectly on a couple of 80G fights on I1299N-P motors.

The diameter was large enough to allow an all-thread and altimeter, or all-thread and battery on each side of the 1/4" plywood sled. If I were doing it again, I would use 3/16" or 1/8" all-thread instead of the 1/4-20 that I used there. That was my first HPR, my L1 cert rocket.
 
Yup, soldered direct. I don't have any pics with me at the moment, but I can post something a bit later.
 
They must be pretty popular now too - when I first bought them from Aerocon, they were only a buck apiece. :(
 
Here is a PCB screw switch in a somewhat unconventional setup I put together, it's a 29mm bay made from a scrap Dr. Rockets case.
P1030037.jpgP1030038.jpg
 
Maybe just the color of the photo, but is that solder I am looking at on the switch?
 
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