InFlight Nike Smoke "Beta" Build

Back when I was in engineering school, I was told that if you really wanted to test something out, abuse it in every way possible and see how well it fares. You learn the weak points that way. The folks at InFlight Rocketry must have much the same general philosophy because I was contacted a few weeks ago and asked if I would be willing to test out one of their new rockets. Word must have reached them from SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED that if you want something to really be messed up, Ol' John's just the guy who can do it. They must have great confidence in their product because they have trusted it to my ham handed efforts.

The Nike Smoke arrived quite quickly. It was well packaged for protection and, upon opening the box, I found a nice looking plastic package with an attractive face card and what looked to be good quality components. I was ready to get started right away but life had other ideas. I didn't want to give it a half effort so I saved it until I could get through the most recent pressures at work and in my family life. All the while, the poor little thing sat on my desk, begging me to come out and play.

I opened up the package to find that various component groups were sealed into their own little sub-packages. I liked that and it helps to keep things organized. In addiotion to the instruction sheet and copy of the NAR code, the packaged contained the following:

a beuatifully turned balsa nose cone
a BT 60 body tube
a BT 50 motor tube
2 centering rings
an eye screw
an engine hook
36" length of Kevlar
an 18" parachute kit that seems to be a Themal Rider from Hartle Engineering
3/16" x 2" launch lug
engine block
1/4" x 24" elastic shock cord
4 laser cut balsa fins
a #5 barrel swivel and snap
an 1/8"x1/6"x2" balsa strip
a waterslide decal sheet

The needed patterns are printed in the instruction manual.

All parts were of good quality and were in good condition. I would begin to remedy that in a few moments.

I'm jealous... 'Smokes of -any- size are cool.

Let's see some more!

Construction begins with the motor mount. A section of BT50 was marked 1/8" from each end. A slit was cut at the forward mark to accomdate the engine hook which was then inserted. Masking tape was used to wrap the tube at the centerline and hold the hook in place.

Placing the engine hood did not seem to have caused too much harm so I pressed on with the centering rings. There are two and they differ from each other. The aft one has a notch for the engine hook cut into the inner edge. The forward one has a notch through which to pass the Kevlar shock cord on the outer edge.

Both rings fit perfectly within the main BT and around the motor mount. No sanding was needed. I slipped them both into place at the marks made in the first step and glued them with yellow glue, filleting the forward edges of each. I will come back and fillet the after edges when the glue has a chance to set up.

I also took this opportunity to swab the forward end of the mount with glue and insert the thrust ring/motor block. Again, it was a perfect fit and no modification was needed.

The next step in the instruction is to fit the eye screw into the nose cone. The screw was well sized and heavy enough to make me comfortable. I dislike tiny ones. I screwed it in and then removed it. I put a dollop of glue into the hole and then screwed the eye back in and left it sitting upright to dry.

The fins for the Nike Smoke come precut. There is no need to punch them out. Only a little sanding is needed to ready them for attachement...unless you want to give them a scale like profile.:surprised:

I was planning on using this rocket as my first forray into a sport scale competition. As such, I decided to use the optional instructions and attempt to sand the profile. Oops.

I marked the root edge 5/8" from either side and the outer edge 1/8" from either side. I then applied tape as a straightedge from the the root to the outer edges, top and bottom, both sides. I was counting on the tape to keep me honest and my lines straight. What I should have counted on was my inability to judge "straight" and my inherent laziness to subject me to problems of my own making.

Not wanting to spend the rest of August sanding, I thought I would use the belt on my bench sander. After all, I just had to hold the fin straight and let it remove a little bit of material in a wedge shape up to the tape. Therein lies the problem. I held it neither straight nor did I remove a "little" material. I came very close to butchering the first fin beyond repair before it sunk in that this was what we in Texas call a BAD IDEA.

Plan B involved using a sanding stick. At least I would be removing so little material that any bias to one side or another would be visible long before it became a problem. I can be such an ignorant optimist at times.

On the second stroke, I learned that I had removed way too much material under plan a and shredded the edge of the fin beyond recognition. It seemed to disolve into sawdust and fine chips.:cry:

LET ME MAKE CLEAR THAT THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE KIT. I messed it up personally.

I have sent a PM to InFlight. They provided me with the kit at no cost and asked me to try it out. I want to hear from them whether they would rather sell me another fin (and have to wait) or have me go out, buy some balsa and cut my own (quickly done but not longer a purely stock build).

I feel bad about this. Its a nice kit thus far but nobody should ever underestimate my ability to foul up mechnically oriented tasks. Subsequent building activity will wait until I get a reply.

Putting all that effort into messing up the fins gave the original fillets on the motor mount a chance to dry so I flipped it and filleted the other side. When that had set up, I used a timber hitch to fasten a Kevlar loop around the motor mount and re-filleted above the Kevlar to lock it into place.

Not having anything further to do, I decided to put the 18" parachute together. Normally, I would have discarded any plastic parachute kit but I did not do so for 2 reasons. I am trying to build this stock, as the buyer would be expected to do and it comes stock with a plastic parachute.

The other reason I am using the stock chute is that my suspicion was confirmed when I opened the parachute kit. It is a Thermal Rider from Hartle Engineering. I have reason to know that they are different from most plastic chutes in their durability and ease of assembly. I'm still to lazy to like doing this but this chute makes it a much less onerous chore.

I did go out to the local hobby shop and buy a piece of balsa to replace the fin I messed up. Tomorrow after church, I will probably try to start sanding down the other fins while I wait to hear from InFlight.

When the fillets on the motor mount had set up, it was time to insert the mount into the BT. I test fitted it first and found again that the fit was perfect. No sanding was needed. I used a long swab to pur a ring of glue around the circumference and slid the mount in until the end of the motor tube was even with the end of the BT. I then filleted it with glue.

Well, I heard from InFlight today and am told that a new set of fins will be in the mail tomorrow. THey were very kind about not making any comments about my bonehead ways. I'[m assuming that means a set of 4 is coming.

Regardless, I still have 3 un-ruined fins and decided to "practice" on them today. I made the marks like I indicated before and again used tape to form a protective barrier. THis time I used Tamiya masking tape instead of the cellophane I used before. I put the fin into a vise to hold it still and then started working it down with a sanding pad. This was slow going but I didn't want any major foul-ups so I'm taking my time. After stroking one side for a while, I reversed the fin and worked on the other.

I few times in the process, I had to replace the tape where it had abraded. The fin definitely looks better but I'm still getting a bit of rounding. My understanding is that these thins should bevel flat to a point.

My next experiemnt had me taking the fin out of the vise and holding it by hand as I tried to sand off a flat surface. To my surprise, it was muc easier to work with this way but I'm still getting the rounding effect.

I'm going to keep trying in the hope of getting this down by the time the fins get here.

John:
The nike smoke is one of many Nike based scale subject at can be made so much easier by making the fins the same way they make the Full size fins. By folding a single or double tapered skin over one or two z-bar center strips. If your model gets to small for the z-bar then a simple center strut can be used most effectively.
I've done these fins in model ranging minimum micro size T2+ to BT-80 all using nothing more then cardstock as the fins. heres a two pic shot of how it's done.
The first pic is of a Nike-Apache I've personally measured and photographed at Wallops Island visitors center. While all Nike fins are not attached exactly the same way this pic give a great view of how they are ALL constructed. some single taper some double.
Hope this helps a little:_

Micromeister said:

John:
The nike smoke is one of many Nike based scale subject at can be made so much easier by making the fins the same way they make the Full size fins. By folding a single or double tapered skin over one or two z-bar center strips. If your model gets to small for the z-bar then a simple center strut can be used most effectively.
I've done these fins in model ranging minimum micro size T2+ to BT-80 all using nothing more then cardstock as the fins. heres a two pic shot of how it's done.
The first pic is of a Nike-Apache I've personally measured and photographed at Wallops Island visitors center. While all Nike fins are not attached exactly the same way this pic give a great view of how they are ALL constructed. some single taper some double.
Hope this helps a little:_

Click to expand...

I appreciate the tip. It is something I will try sometime when doing it on my own instead of testing out a kit. It makes lots of sense.

I have a different question based on your first photo. I know the fin colors for this rocket are three reds and a yellow. Most of the time when I see them they are plain red and yellow but sometimes, they seem to have more of the dayglo look to them. your photo is a case in point. Is there an explanation?

John, while you are experimenting, you might try this.

Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (work table, etc.) then lay your fin stock flat on the balsa.

Before you begin the sanding part, shim the trailing edge (on both sides) with another thin scrap of balsa, basswood, etc about 1/16" or 3/32" thick. and tape it to your fin stock.

THEN begin sliding the whole assembly back and forth.

Count strokes. Do twenty or so on one side then twenty or so on the other. I'm rotten at eyeballing tapers to keep them even so I count strokes. It's kinda anal but it works to keep things more or less even.

Blessings,

Peartree said:

John, while you are experimenting, you might try this.

Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (work table, etc.) then lay your fin stock flat on the balsa.

Before you begin the sanding part, shim the trailing edge (on both sides) with another thin scrap of balsa, basswood, etc about 1/16" or 3/32" thick. and tape it to your fin stock.

THEN begin sliding the whole assembly back and forth.

Count strokes. Do twenty or so on one side then twenty or so on the other. I'm rotten at eyeballing tapers to keep them even so I count strokes. It's kinda anal but it works to keep things more or less even.

Blessings,

Click to expand...

I'm missing something. When I tried to picture this in my mind, I came up with an image that results in sanding down the middle of the fin instead of the outside. I also pictured myself pushing down too hard and cracking the fin but that's another story

I sketched what I understood in pagemaker (all I have handy) and made a PDF. What am I missing?

PS I'm not worried about being called anal but I'm not sure if I can count to 20.

View attachment Sanding wedge.pdf

JAL3 said:

I appreciate the tip. It is something I will try sometime when doing it on my own instead of testing out a kit. It makes lots of sense.

I have a different question based on your first photo. I know the fin colors for this rocket are three reds and a yellow. Most of the time when I see them they are plain red and yellow but sometimes, they seem to have more of the dayglo look to them. your photo is a case in point. Is there an explanation?

Click to expand...

Almost all Nike boosted varients are indeed fluorescent painted fins. red and yellow. There are a couple that are not, a few rounds of Nike-Asp have plain white fins for instance. A really good reference for these Sounding Rockets it Rockets Of the World, The new addition should be shipping NOW as a matter of fact, $35.00 bucks and worth every penny

Another Trick if you intend to sand solid balsa fins it to run a line of masking tape along the center ridge line before you start sanding, then switch it to the other side before doing the other end. Sanding solid tapered fins is Such a Pain and they never come out even regardless of how careful we are, but if that's your choice at least using a flat plate and masking the high ridge belp a bit. One more tip for sanding both fins and glider wing airfoils is to do it on a slab of Glass. Plate Glass being a poured porduct comes out very close to absolutely flat. I bought a piece of 1/2"thick x 12" x 18" plate glass for a storefront glass company for next to nothing I think they charged me $7.00 bucks to flame polish the edges. Sure makes sanding wings and stuff a breeze.
Hope this helps.

Here is a quick jig I made to sand my fins. It's similar to Peartree's suggestion.

Shows a sideview looking at the root edge of the fin. You can cut a taper in the small balsa scrap to change the angle.

View attachment nikesmoke_sanding_jig.pdf

InFlight said:

Here is a quick jig I made to sand my fins. It's similar to Peartree's suggestion.

Shows a sideview looking at the root edge of the fin. You can cut a taper in the small balsa scrap to change the angle.

Click to expand...

Aha. Things begin to make sense. I'm not used to sense. Its frightening.

Thanks.

I can draw up a top view and a leading edge view of the jig if you need it.

Heck, I'm going to include these drawings as a tip sheet in the kit.

InFlight said:

I can draw up a top view and a leading edge view of the jig if you need it.

Heck, I'm going to include these drawings as a tip sheet in the kit.

Click to expand...

I have the picture now and think I will be able to fumble my way through it. I do think the tip sheet is a very good idea for the production run of kits.

Do you have any input on the flourecent colors of the fins? It's something I've noticed and Micromeister confirmed. I was just wondering why they did it that way. I don't remember this as a kid but have noticed it since becoming a BAR.

JAL3 said:

I'm missing something. When I tried to picture this in my mind, I came up with an image that results in sanding down the middle of the fin instead of the outside. I also pictured myself pushing down too hard and cracking the fin but that's another story

I sketched what I understood in pagemaker (all I have handy) and made a PDF. What am I missing?

PS I'm not worried about being called anal but I'm not sure if I can count to 20.

Click to expand...

Almost but not quite. I meant the "other side" as in the same end but the opposite side, kind of a top/bottom kinda thing. Sand 10 to 20 strokes one (bottom) side, flip, then same thing on the opposite (top) side. the scrap just allows you to maintain a constant angle as you slide the fin along the sandpaper. I am usually not that concerned with maintaining a perfect angle so I just stick the edge of my finger under it and sand off my nails...

Does any of that make sense?

InFlight said:

Here is a quick jig I made to sand my fins. It's similar to Peartree's suggestion.

Shows a sideview looking at the root edge of the fin. You can cut a taper in the small balsa scrap to change the angle.

Click to expand...

Yeah. Basically like that except I try to do both sides/top/bottom/whatever (counting strokes) in an attempt to be symmetrical.

JAL3 said:

I have the picture now and think I will be able to fumble my way through it. I do think the tip sheet is a very good idea for the production run of kits.

Do you have any input on the flourecent colors of the fins? It's something I've noticed and Micromeister confirmed. I was just wondering why they did it that way. I don't remember this as a kid but have noticed it since becoming a BAR.

Click to expand...

Micromeister is correct, they should be painted a fluorescent color. I used the word Bright instead of fluorescent. I'll correct that in the instructions. Thanks for catching it.

Peartree said:

Almost but not quite. I meant the "other side" as in the same end but the opposite side, kind of a top/bottom kinda thing. Sand 10 to 20 strokes one (bottom) side, flip, then same thing on the opposite (top) side. the scrap just allows you to maintain a constant angle as you slide the fin along the sandpaper. I am usually not that concerned with maintaining a perfect angle so I just stick the edge of my finger under it and sand off my nails...

Does any of that make sense?

Click to expand...

It makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

Unfortunately my nails are too bitten to stand up to much sanding. It has nothing to do with rockets. I have a new bishop to break in.

InFlight said:

Micromeister is correct, they should be painted a fluorescent color. I used the word Bright instead of fluorescent. I'll correct that in the instructions. Thanks for catching it.

Click to expand...

That's the way I'm going. I've bought the paint. I was just wondering why. I've not noticed any other rockets going in for the Dayglo effect.

JAL3 said:

That's the way I'm going. I've bought the paint. I was just wondering why. I've not noticed any other rockets going in for the Dayglo effect.

Click to expand...

The fins on an actual nike smoke were a very bright color. Fluorescent paint simulates the those colors better than standard paints. Although, I have painted a few models with Rustolem bright Yellow and it was pretty darn bright. The Red not so much.

Hope this helps.

InFlight said:

The fins on an actual nike smoke were a very bright color. Fluorescent paint simulates the those colors better than standard paints. Although, I have painted a few models with Rustolem bright Yellow and it was pretty darn bright. The Red not so much.

Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

So the "real" rockets were not actually flourecent; they were just really bright. Does that sum it up?

Still, rather than looking for the "right" color, I'll probably go with the flouros since that seems to be standard practice and since my going to the hardware stome more than once a week constitutes grounds for domestic disharmony.

JAL3 said:

So the "real" rockets were not actually flourecent; they were just really bright. Does that sum it up?

Still, rather than looking for the "right" color, I'll probably go with the flouros since that seems to be standard practice and since my going to the hardware stome more than once a week constitutes grounds for domestic disharmony.

Click to expand...

John! If your trying to simulate the correct colors for the Nike Smoke the fins ARE Fluorescent red and fluorescent yellow. Not just some bright colors

AS for why Fluorescents well you'd have to ask someone on the Sounding rocket teams. but there are MANY of the early sounding rockets done in day-glo colors, the Trailblazer, Argo D-4 Javelin, Hermes RV-a-10 are a couple others that comes to mind. as well as several of the X-17 rounds.

I think what InFlight was trying to relay is that Fluorescent RED matching that stuff used at Wallops Island on the real sounding rockets "Smokes" is a hard color to come by as most of the commerically available Fluorescent Reds these days have more of an orange over-tone.
You may have to look around for one that saus "RED" not RED-Orange on the can I haven't purchased any spary Fluorescents for a few years, but the last time I got a really Good Flour. Red it was Rustoleum brand. An earlier Can on my shelf is "Kalifornia Kolors" Fluorescent by Krylon but I'm not sure that stuff is still available?
Hope this helps a little.

Micromeister said:

John! If your trying to simulate the correct colors for the Nike Smoke the fins ARE Fluorescent red and fluorescent yellow. Not just some bright colors

AS for why Fluorescents well you'd have to ask someone on the Sounding rocket teams. but there are MANY of the early sounding rockets done in day-glo colors, the Trailblazer, Argo D-4 Javelin, Hermes RV-a-10 are a couple others that comes to mind. as well as several of the X-17 rounds.

I think what InFlight was trying to relay is that Fluorescent RED matching that stuff used at Wallops Island on the real sounding rockets "Smokes" is a hard color to come by as most of the commerically available Fluorescent Reds these days have more of an orange over-tone.
You may have to look around for one that saus "RED" not RED-Orange on the can I haven't purchased any spary Fluorescents for a few years, but the last time I got a really Good Flour. Red it was Rustoleum brand. An earlier Can on my shelf is "Kalifornia Kolors" Fluorescent by Krylon but I'm not sure that stuff is still available?
Hope this helps a little.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'll look for the Rustoleum. The big thing in my mind right now though is "close enough". I think I'll try entering it an a non-competitive sport scale competition run by my club but if anyone starts measuring reflected wavelengths, that takes the fun out of it.

First thought I have to get the &$%@&#%*@&# fins into an approximation of the right shape.

Its just after 2300 hours and I just got home from work. THere is a package from InFLight which I assume contains the replacement fins but it will have to wait until tomorrow.

Sigh.