What Can we do with CHROME paint?

Pantherjon said:

Well, I visited both of the local hobby shops when I was in Savannah today, and saw something that connected with this thread so picked it up..I got a can of Spaz Stix 'Mirror Chrome' paint..It uses the 3 step process much like the Duplicolor Mirage kit, with their base prep, color, and clear coat..Will test it out sometime this week..IF the results are good and it doesn't dull to gray like most chrome it is an option and a WHOLE lot cheaper then the Alsa stuff(Spaz Stix is $11/can but can be had cheaper online)...

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Jon:
Any progress? Did you get a chance to try the Spaz Stix Mirror chrome?

I'm a bit bummed that the Alsa product didn't perform as advertised but perhaps it was just a bad can? r1derman did you return that bad clear coat can for a replacement?

I'm still looking for A Chrome Paint Finish that we can use on our models.....

Pantherjon said:

Well, I visited both of the local hobby shops when I was in Savannah today, and saw something that connected with this thread so picked it up..I got a can of Spaz Stix 'Mirror Chrome' paint..It uses the 3 step process much like the Duplicolor Mirage kit, with their base prep, color, and clear coat..Will test it out sometime this week..IF the results are good and it doesn't dull to gray like most chrome it is an option and a WHOLE lot cheaper then the Alsa stuff(Spaz Stix is $11/can but can be had cheaper online)...

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Actually Jon, don't hold your breath... I expect it will have the same results as the Alcad stuff... I've used both before on RC car bodies... They both act the same, smell the same and have the same instructions.

Micromeister said:

Jon:
Any progress? Did you get a chance to try the Spaz Stix Mirror chrome?

I'm a bit bummed that the Alsa product didn't perform as advertised but perhaps it was just a bad can? r1derman did you return that bad clear coat can for a replacement?

I'm still looking for A Chrome Paint Finish that we can use on our models.....

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I had totally forgot about it til this morning when I needed to move the cans to get to some papers!

I looked at the temp/humidity and saw it was pretty good for shooting some paint(low/mid 60's and 65% humidity)..I had a small rocket that needed paint anyway so it became the test vessel..

1:Went out and shot a coat of 'surface prep'-weird, came out like a clear coat, not at all what I was expecting. But then again this IS my first experience with Spaz paints..Back in the house to let it dry

2: After the 'surface prep' had dried-about 15 minutes, went out and shot some base Mirror Chrome..First impression is that it absolutely does NOT like balsa(or maybe any type of wood) as it took like 3 coats to get any chrome/silver color on the fins and nose cone-I gave up after 2 coats on getting any type of 'chrome' on the nose cone..Here is the rocket after 3 coats-not bad- isn't the 'mirror' finish the can promises tho..


3: Next came the 'Ultra Shine Clear' coat..Took my time shaking the can, I wanted a good mix of the compounds-like the base I shook it for like 5 minutes..As I was shooting it on the rocket I was like 'What the $&#^??' It came out like a dark splotchy gray color..Very weird..Well, I thought maybe it would dry clear-which for the most part it did..but the finish is NOT what I was expecting Here is a shot of the test rocket next to a piece of scrap BT I had earlier(like 3 months ago) painted with the cheap colorplace silver and just clear coated this morning as a comparison..Not much difference


Well, that didn't turn out as expected with the Spaz paint..I think it is formulated for plastic and won't produce a 'stellar' reflective finish on wood or paper. And a thing about formulation, I looked at the can label listing contents and it's the first time I have noticed a spray can containing propane!:surprised:

Final analysis: Looks like we are back to square one again! Bright note on my part: At least it didn't cost me $120 to find out- but still at $11/can x 3 it was a $33 experiment that failed=not cheap..pooh

Sorry... I thought this would be the case. Don't bother trying it on plastic, it will do the same thing... "Hi" to the Fake-Wulf wing jig in the background.

Propane and butane as a propellant in spray cans is not that unheard of and actually quite common.

-Aaron

Well Crud!
Yet another attempt down the hole Thanks for trying Jon! $33.00 bucks is still pretty steep for something that didn't workout.
Looks like we'll just have to keep on looking and experimenting.

still working on it...customer service is kind of ehh...my friend at the body shop said that most cans are formulated to work with each other, so him spraying any other kind of clear over it could dampen the results. other than that, i DID shoot the chrome over the base black, and it was foggy. looked kind of sparkly, but overall was no better than the terrible plastikote. this is getting really frustrating, and the outside temp is in the 30's, so it's not really prime painting conditions. still working on the clearcoat.

so uhh...i found the secret! lol...since it's been sitting in my cold (50 degrees) basement from the time i got it, it (the lightning clear) hasnt worked...i turned on my light to work on some other rockets, and the can was sitting under it (incandescent), the can heats up to a recorded 77.6 degrees, i shake it up, put the nozzle on, and it sprays like a dream! (and stinks like hell!) anyway, any advice for shooting paint in cold weather? this experiment must continue, i have faith in this 100+ dollar crap! i've already sanded the original down to primer, and plan on re-spraying tomorrow.

heada said:

Propane and butane as a propellant in spray cans is not that unheard of and actually quite common.

-Aaron

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Didn't know that..Learn something new everyday Yeah here are the contents of the 'Surface Pre-Prep' by Spaz: Isopropyl Alcohol, Propane, N-Butane..No wonder it stinks to high heaven!

Propane is sometimes also used for refrigerant. Not just because it is ozone friendly (how can it harm the ozone if it's heavier than air?) but because it really is a good refrigerant. It isn't widely used because people have a reaction to having a flammable (inflammable - whatever) gas in their house, even in a self contained system.

My wife says I am a master of recalling stupid trivia...

The testers web page www.testors.com has a few tips for getting the chrome look. and keeping it. I have had semi good luck useing their silver paints and following their instructions. I use an air brush to paint with it. I do admit I havent done this with a rocket but Will try.

r1dermon said:

so uhh...i found the secret! lol...since it's been sitting in my cold (50 degrees) basement from the time i got it, it (the lightning clear) hasnt worked...i turned on my light to work on some other rockets, and the can was sitting under it (incandescent), the can heats up to a recorded 77.6 degrees, i shake it up, put the nozzle on, and it sprays like a dream! (and stinks like hell!) anyway, any advice for shooting paint in cold weather? this experiment must continue, i have faith in this 100+ dollar crap! i've already sanded the original down to primer, and plan on re-spraying tomorrow.

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While I can't comment on this Alsa product specifically:
the alsa and most other auto paints and primers give a Best spaying temp range and this temp applies to the ambient air temp, temp of the paint in the gun and most important to the surface temp of the substrate being sprayed.
Generally this is "best" at 70°f with 50°f being the absolute lowest allowable temp.

With these things in mind I'd suggest getting you basement room temp up a bit and using lamps to warm the model surface before you apply the clear over the base black.
do I rememeber someting about this clear has to sit for some time before the Chrome is applied? I'd back the lamps off a bit but try to maintain about 70 degrees during this period?

Charlaine: The Testor's URL is https://www.testors.com

yeah, the clear is supposed to be set up for 24 hours before the chrome is sprayed. hehe...i'll probably drop it under some lamps. good idea.

thanks

Just a quick bit of advise with the ALSA or many other Automotive paints.
Temps of surface to be sprayed are critical.
('specialy as we get into the colder weather!)

One of my most handy tools is a Non-contact thermometer. You know, those infa-red ones.... sweet.
I keep one in the pocket of my paint suit for certain coatings. Saves me from screw ups, and repaints.

Take a few readings before you paint. That way you don't run in to a temp. variance on the object to be sprayed.

Good luck, get some photos.

and now the usual safety advise:
Ventilate and use a proper respirator ect... ect...

Pantherjon said:

I had totally forgot about it til this morning when I needed to move the cans to get to some papers!

I looked at the temp/humidity and saw it was pretty good for shooting some paint(low/mid 60's and 65% humidity)..I had a small rocket that needed paint anyway so it became the test vessel..

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thanks for sacrificing the test vessel...heh

stymye said:

thanks for sacrificing the test vessel...heh

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I am sure Hot Rod will understand..Was done in the name of 'research'...lol..BT isn't great, but is passable..Will be repainting the fins and nose cone tho..

Micromeister said:

I'm again at a loss!
For the umtenth time I've total screwed up a prefectly good Chrome finised model
I've tried everything I can think of and every single time the mirror finish is instantly removed. future floor wax, microscale clear, and even plain auto wax Greys the finish???
Has anyone found a way to keep this from happening?
Seems it doesn't matter what "Brand" of Spary on Chorme paint either. I've tried Testors Chrome, Master modeler Chrome, Krylon Chrome, Krylon Special formula Classics Chrome, Rustoleum Chrome, ColorWorks Chrome, Tinimic Chrome, and all the silly off brands i've run across in the last 6 weeks;(
I give! are we just to leave it Chrome until we touch it and simple except it's gonna grey down to plain old silver?
Heres the "Before" and close up "After" of the
nosecone after a flight and some attempts to save the finish with microScale clear and Future

View attachment 231503

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I have some 55 year old shiny silver radiator paint. Never dulls.

m300cab said:

I have some 55 year old shiny silver radiator paint. Never dulls.

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reviving a 16 year old thread? This is the new chrome paint:

There is some insane chrome ink pens out there now... and iinm they are refillable. Adam Savage's TESTED uses them and he swears by them.

I painted my level 3 rocket with Rustoleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish. It's not chrome, strictly speaking, but it is pretty darn shiny. I was able to see the rocket flash in the sunlight all the way to 7100 feet and back down.

https://a.co/d/gaVTI5L

For those of you looking for the best options as it pertains to spraying and clear coating chrome paint you might want to investigate the recommendations from hobie1dog and check out the YouTube channel of Barbatos Rex at the following link. He test most all available chrome paint and clearcoat finishes including the expensive 2K auto clearcoats then provides his opinion of the paint's performance. He also provides great test and recommendations on primers and gloss black undercoats.

He also has a Patron site where you can ask him to test paints and/or paint systems you are interested in. Or your can communicate your objective and he will demonstrate the best options to address that objective. A very cost-effective way to test paint without the huge expense.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_66OBQNO8jXkHjlxnnxT-A

gsitexas said:

For those of you looking for the best options as it pertains to spraying and clear coating chrome paint you might want to investigate the recommendations from hobie1dog and check out the YouTube channel of Barbatos Rex at the following link. He test most all available chrome paint and clearcoat finishes including the expensive 2K auto clearcoats then provides his opinion of the paint's performance. He also provides great test and recommendations on primers and gloss black undercoats.

He also has a Patron site where you can ask him to test paints and/or paint systems you are interested in. Or your can communicate your objective and he will demonstrate the best options to address that objective. A very cost-effective way to test paint without the huge expense.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_66OBQNO8jXkHjlxnnxT-A

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All good as long as you keep in mind that he's evaluating based on getting a superior finish for models/gunpla that sit on a shelf as home museum pieces and in their whole existence will never see the real world wear that a typical rocket will see in just one trip to the field.

Banzai88 said:

All good as long as you keep in mind that he's evaluating based on getting a superior finish for models/gunpla that sit on a shelf as home museum pieces and in their whole existence will never see the real world wear that a typical rocket will see in just one trip to the field.

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If you use the high gloss KBS Diamond clear topcoat, it will have the same durability as a crank bait fishing lure, almost indestructible.

m300cab said:

I have some 55 year old shiny silver radiator paint. Never dulls.

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And you found a 16 year old dead thread.

rharshberger said:

And you found a 16 year old dead thread.

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that's what I said in post #110

Lots of old, some departed, friends in this thread. Thanks @m300cab !

Moltow's Liquid Chrome Refills come in 30ml bottles...

Bought a can of Duplicolor Chrome, mostly because I'm using Duplicolor on almost everything. Guy at Autozone says it looks like chrome. We'll see..... I'm not too optimistic, I'm expecting a silver appearance. Should be spraying it in the next week or so.

Hans.