What Can we do with CHROME paint?

the key word is "customer service employee" ,, that person has probably never actually used their product.

zog43editor said:

Heh- does anyone else find it funny that this is a thread about clearcoating started by John who doesn't recommend clearcoating?

kj

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showpost.php?p=483071&postcount=6

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Quite Right Kevin and I still don't; But like just about everything: their are always exceptions to the rule.
On most surfaces and just about any other type of paint clearcoating is a total waste of time.
There is just little difference when your working on Mirror or very high specular finishes.

Add Dupli-color silver to the batch Stymye. I didn't list all the different Chrome silver paints. they are ALL pretty much alike, do anything to them after application, the immediately Grey down.

:rotflol: Oh man AK did you get your customer service reps name I'd really like to report the poor fellow.. He, she or it..is in disperate need of additional training
Krylon Chrome and Krylon Crystal Clear work great together as long as You like a dull silver grey surface :lol:
The Dwindled Dead Ringer is Krylon "Original Chrome" #1010 the most expensive Chrome paint they make.
So far it hasn't mattered one bit which of the Krylon clears as been used.... #1301, 1303, 1303a, 1305, 1306, or 1311
they all instantly turn the polished chrome into dull dark silver gray. Man! that's really amazing! Tho par for the coarse. I once had a 3m rep tell me they (3m) had NEVER made the particular product I was asking about by NUMBER. when I was Holding the CAN in my hand!!!

yeah, alsacorps stuff is AWESOME...i used some a few years back on my bike (i have a friend who paints cars and does body work, so he offered to spray my bike for free if i got him the paints). outrageously expensive, but absolutely MINT looking, and very durable as well...most light scratches can be buffed out and resprayed with clear. killer chrome looks like another one of their amazing products. .

BTW

r1dermon that's a killer BMW!!!

I'd hate to be the one to keep that clean and polished though! I'd drive it only on Sundays in '70 degree dry weather.

I agree! I Almost purchased one of the Killer Chrome kits from Alascorp. I just couldn't bring myself to spend 115 bucks plus shipping for 3 aerosol cans and some buffing rags.!!!! I'm getting like powderburner LOL I just can't let go of the buck
Super looking material and the flip/flop color change materials is fantastic!
Their Topcoat Clear might be an option also but again at 40buck for an areosol can..I just couldn't do it!!!!

Very SWEET BMW tho! wouldn't a LUNA or Maxi-V2 look KEWL like that!!!

It's a bit different but, what about NuFunish and sorts. Will those preserve the chrome appearance and give some added protection?

AK:
have had a chance to test Nu-finish but I did try plain old turtle wax last week, with did dull down the chrome as well. I sprayed the last of the Krylon 1010 original Chrome paint on a small sheet of foamcore last weekend. I'm trying to give it a week or so to dry before I cut it up into small squares for use as overcoat targets Nu-Finish will be one of the first things I try.

What EXACT brand, number Chrome did you use?

I'm gathering Chrome Paints as well, to spary on test strips. just for the heck of it, while I'm at it. I'll include mirror Gold and Copper as well.

I didn't see ALCLAD 2 on your list, John. Seems to be pretty popular with the NMF crowd.

kj

Micromeister said:

What EXACT brand, number Chrome did you use?

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It was Krylon. Let me check the product number when I get home.

zog43editor said:

I didn't see ALCLAD 2 on your list, John. Seems to be pretty popular with the NMF crowd.

kj

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I've used Alclad on plastic scale models and while it does give an excellent chrome finish, it too will dull with handling.

On a semi-related note, I have had one chrome paint application that is keeping it's shine. Story goes: I had a can of Duplicolor Chrome on my work bench and accidentally knocked it off. When it fell it hit the sharp corner of a piece of aluminum angle and punched a hole in the can. You can probably picture my reaction as the paint began spraying the entire area. By the time I was able to get a finger over the hole, most surfaces, including my skin was covered in a beautiful chrome finish. I had a "metalflake" finish to my skin for a few days and several areas of my workbench still have a very shiny finish. Go figure!

I've tried that Duplicolor chrome since and it doesn't seem to work on "purposely applied finishes".

Swampworks said:

On a semi-related note, I have had one chrome paint application that is keeping it's shine. Story goes: I had a can of Duplicolor Chrome on my work bench and accidentally knocked it off. When it fell it hit the sharp corner of a piece of aluminum angle and punched a hole in the can. You can probably picture my reaction as the paint began spraying the entire area. By the time I was able to get a finger over the hole, most surfaces, including my skin was covered in a beautiful chrome finish. I had a "metalflake" finish to my skin for a few days and several areas of my workbench still have a very shiny finish. Go figure!

I've tried that Duplicolor chrome since and it doesn't seem to work on "purposely applied finishes".

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That story made me wonder: is there a difference in how it's applied? We usually try to lay down multiple very fine layers. Perhaps, because it went on as a single, thick layer, Swampworks' application stayed shiny?

Micro, in your testing, have you tried varying the application thickness? I'm just taking shots in the dark here, but given the ineffectiveness of everything tried to date, I'm trying to look at different options.

What if you polished it with a polishing compound and then waxed it?

Mike

Kevin:
Alclad-2 is also nice stuff, but as mentioned it does what most of the other Chrome Paints are doing.


Again guy's I didn't bother listing all the assortment of Chrome paints I've collected, as None so far have done any better then the others. I do seem to remember the my Deep Space transport was either Dupli-color or ColorWorks Chrome before I used #1301 Krylon Crystal clear over it. instantly making it a grey model.

WW:
Good thinking and yes i've used a number of different "Patterns" to lay down single and multi layer of several different products. I'm waiting for teh sheet to have a good long time to dry before messing with the last single 2, 3 and 4 coat sheet of #1010 krylon Chrome. Last weekend I even tried force aging in the oven... Better 2/3rd wasn't very happy with me over that Sunday smell! That was another can of ColorWorks (S&W) Chrome. It didn't make a bit of difference I'm sorry to say.

Mike:
i've tried burnishing out some old dry Chrome painted sheets with cotton balls and polishing rag and tissue. in all cases the finish is simple rubbed off.
a compound will do the same much faster. Finessit-II which is not actually a compound does the same. as soon as any of these product are applied the Shinny surface is almost immediately turned into a dull silver tho slick surface. All the refectivity is gone, turning the painted surface into a standard looking grey silver aluminum look.
Many of you may not know that all our "silver paints" are actually the same alumimum powder used to in a lot of AP motors as fuel. Golds and coppers are various "bronzing powders" which are ground copper, brass and bronze metal powders in a clear vehicle. How they make the flakes simulate Chrome as something to do with the size and shape of the individual flakes in the vehicle and how they "laydown" on the surface. I'm not at all clear on how this chemistry works. I'm trying to get information on that process currently. I'll let you all know the findings.

one way to do it is chrome vinyl, and i's not as stiff as monokote so it cuts much easier yet just as thin

Adhesive backed trim Monokote are an excellant alternative if your working on single plane surfaces or very gentle cures but it's very thick as vinyls go, generally the stuff I've seen as been about 2.5 or 3mils.
If you can use Vinyl for your purpose 3m, Arlon and several other vinyl manufacturers have Chrome silver in 1mil thickness which can be a little tricky to lay but if used with a wetting agent will give a very Nice finish. again on single plain curves and flat surfaces. Like the large flat chute compartment of the Ultra Orbital transport.

Unfortunately i'm looking for Chrome on compound curved surfaces that most vinyls generally will not allow. I mentioned Bare Metal Foil which can be used on compound smooth curves but is a real bear when combined with deep folds and other obstructions.

I'm still looking for something just a little easier to apply.

micro, I checked what I have and your right the vinyl is much thinner.
I tried cutting some monocote in my cutter and it ate up the blade.
I have cut curves in chrome using the template widget than importing that to the vinyl cutter ,It works very well .but doing a whole cone would be tough

Stymye:
Since I'm a Sign man, I could tell you guys the horror stories of attempting to apply vinyl wraps on compound curved surfaces of cars, trucks and buses. their are now specialty Auto wrap vinyls formulated specifically for that purpose. Well it's really a digital printing film, but still technically a vinyl material.
Sure you can apply vinyls to conical transitions and stuff with slight curves. the model below is all done in real gold leaf vinyl and marble vinyl, No paint on anything except the small "laser cannons"
Something we need to keep in mind also is ALL Vinyls shrink over time with exposure to UV. some more then others but over time they will shrink about 1% or more.

Stymye:
I'm sure you know all vinyls are not alike. When buying vinyls for you cutter do you purchase (electro-cut)series vinyls? They will extend blade life as much as 30% depending on the series and thickness being cut.

i think im gonna bite the bullet and buy one of those alsa corp killer chrome kits...as well as a few of their other special-fx products. 120 bucks is steep, but the results will be worth it IMO...

r1dermon said:

i think im gonna bite the bullet and buy one of those alsa corp killer chrome kits...as well as a few of their other special-fx products. 120 bucks is steep, but the results will be worth it IMO...

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I think I'm with you r1dermon!
If after all this experimenting we can't come up with a single thing to protect the Mirror reflective finish on all the different spray can "chrome" paints. I'll join you in spending the 120 bucks for a Killer Chrome Alsa kits.
I have two models that I'd REALLY like to be Chrome finished. We'll see.

Has anyone tried the techniques that the late Les Sundt used on plastic model aircraft? I seem to recall an article of his in Fine Scale Modeler years ago, where he revealed his "secrets" for an absolutely gorgeous metal finish. He used either a white enamel paint or varnish, waited until tacky, then rubbed aluminum powder into the surface. Buff until happy. Let dry. Seal with Carver Tripp Clear Varnish. I've tried this technique maybe six or seven years ago, but on a plastic model. On of the requirements for this finish to work is an absolutely flawless surface - which meant wet polishing so that there are NO blemishes on the surface (LOTS of polishing). I don't know how this finish would hold up to the heat of the exhaust, and I don't recall the finish being all that robust - but Les claimed that he was taught this technique by an old-time auto body specialist, who used to repair chrome bumpers with this technique.

FWIW,

Mike

While I didn't use aluminum powder, I did attempt to burnish the surface of the Chrome spayed on paint (see post #43) which didn't work to well either
I'll be cutting up the test samples this week, for the all out assult with everything clear I have in the basement LOL! applied over 5 different "Chrome Silver" Spary can paints.
I'll let ya know if anything retains the shine

I can report on Nu-Finish over 3 different brands. Don't do it!!! Turned them in a heart beat Shines the grey very nicely but NO specular finish is retained at all
Same for Pledge, Future, Miniwax Wood Care wax. and Bees wax. instant grey.

i just got it for 100 bucks on ebay for the 1k killer chrome kit (i dont have a respirator for the 2k kit)...i think im going to order up a few speed shapes and grab as many "chrome" spray paints from the store that i can find...top coat them all with whatever they recommend, and photo-log the results...as well as put a (hopefully) very nice chrome finish on my LOC aura. i anticipate about 2 weeks at the most. stay tuned.

Ugh!
AK; I think we're in trouble!

Well: 25 samples, 6 spary can Chrome paints and AlClad airbrushed Chrome have ALL Greyed down under every Spraycan clear, workable fixatif, and clearcoat I could find, clear uthrethane, polyurethane, spar varnish, shallac, Future, paste and liquid car waxes, Nu-finish, even Pledge and Endust

I'll put up some photos of the stuff and test pieces later when I get them out of the camera.

I'm so disappointed!!!! Man I don't want to spend a hundred bucks just to get a mirror finished silver model Looks Like Alas "Killer chrome" is the only "protectable" CHROME finish we're gonna have guys. provided you buy the "KIT" at 100 to 115 bucks.

If plain old standard Silver won't do.. we're stuck. I'm sure the mirror golds, coppers and brasses are going to react exactly the same way so be prepared.

Testors Silver, krylon Silver metallic and several other spary "aluminum" silvers were OK as an alum color "silver finish". Rustoleum Silver metallic is very nice, large flake and silvery.
But they just are not a chrome finish... guess they'll Look pretty good on most models
Hope this helps a little, Maybe r1ldermon will have better luck?

Crud! Well, thanks for the experiment nonetheless.

I think I'll simply have to accept my chrome dulling out and going to a more silver hue.

Thanks for keeping us all informed Micro!

I have been following this thread closely, even though I have no access to many if any of the products mentioned.

I can just say.... "Dang it!"

It would have been great if there was a way of getting "true" chrome onto a rocket. I have had no luck over here with the products I have tried (not that many but anyway) and it is a shame that there seems to be no way of getting a great result.

I have almost begun thinking about leaf metal for "chrome" parts.
*look at my avatar and guess what nose cone I am thinking about*

i just found this stuff...

https://www.newfantachrome.com/goin/prodotti_eng/newfantachrome.htm

but can't find a price...sounds cool though. i havent seen a video demo like on alsa's website...which basically just lays it down that alsas chrome is the baddest on the block...it should be arriving soon. stay tuned.

r1dermon said:

i just found this stuff...

https://www.newfantachrome.com/goin/prodotti_eng/newfantachrome.htm

but can't find a price...

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Sounds beyond expensive.

"FOR ITS APPLICATION A SPECIAL EQUIPMENT IS NECESSARY"
1 - UNDERCOATING
[snip]
2 - CHROMING STEP
[snip]
3 - FINAL TOPCOAT
[snip]
CONCERNING POINTS 1. AND 3. THE PRODUCT MUST BE APPLIED WITH A NORMAL GUN.
CONCERNING POINT 2. THE PRODUCT MUST BE APPLIED WITH OUR SPECIAL MACHINE FANTACHROME.

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https://www.motostorm.com/gpage11.html

This is very trick automotive paint. It needs a good suface prep, prime and a poly' clear coat.
This is NOT for high school hotshots or do-it-yourself painters. It should be used by those with the skills and the proper equipment to do it safely.

I have used the Motochrome and the Hyperblack on automotive projects. Both great products, although a bit tricky to use. They also have a coating that changes color based on tempature... I'm dying to try that.

Certainly may be beyond the budget for micros?
But may be good for big projects?

But, do you know any custom auto paint shops in your area that may have a bit left over? It is a shame to toss the leftovers.

Certainly not for every project.
Just a thought.

has anyone tried Testor's Metalizer Paints?