SynergyAero
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Many of you have asked me about the launch pad you see in my launch photos. This is something I built from scratch. It has folding legs, and a removable "1515" series launch rail with adjustable inclination. The pad is made entirely from aluminum, with the exception of the steel blast deflector. The launch rail accepts Public Missiles "Large Linear Launch Rail Lugs" part number LRL-15-2 or LRL-15-6. It will also work with the larger rail buttons from various manufacturers.
Since you wanted to know how to make one, I am starting this thread!
Here is a photo...
It is made almost entirely out of 80/20, Inc. parts (the guys who manufacture most of the launch rails we use). I bought the bulk extrusions (launch rails) from 80/20's E-Bay store . Here, they sell "scratch and dent" pieces at discounted pricing. You can check the item details to see if the flaws are merely cosmetic, or if there are more serious flaws. I picked out pieces that had slight scratches, or were odd lengths.
Pieces which I could not find on the E-Bay store, I was able to order new, from one of 80/20's distributors, HPE Automation.
Here is a complete parts list for making this launch pad, as well as the sources from which I acquired the parts:
(3) 8020inc T-slot aluminum extrusions, 1515 series, approx. 8' length each (E-Bay store)
These make the launch rail, the four legs, and a small piece used to fasten the pivot assembly to the base.
(2) 8020inc T-slot aluminum extrusions, 1010 series, approx 6' total length (E-Bay store)
These are cut up to make the frame which bolts to the underside of, and reinforces the 8-sided aluminum base.
(1) 8020inc. Pivot Assembly, part# 4453 (HPE Automation)
This is the assembly which sits atop the aluminum base. It includes the two clamping handles, as well as the "nub" to which the launch rail is attached.
(4) 8020inc. Hinges, part# 4321 (HPE Automation)
These are the complete hinge assemblies which are bolted to the underside of the aluminum base. They each include a nub, to which you attach each leg.
(4) 8020inc. 0deg. Living Nubs, part# 4381 (HPE Automation)
These extra "nubs" go on the end of each leg. They are not absolutely necessary, but they do give the leg a nice finished look. They also prevent dirt from getting stuck in the legs, which then falls out onto your nice white rug as you drag the launch pad through your house!
(1) Custom 8-sided aluminum base, 1/4" thick (Local metal shop)
I had this piece machined by a local shop, then I drilled and tapped the holes myself.
(1) Custom 15" x 15" steel plate, 1/4" thick (Local metal shop)
Again I had this piece cut, but drilled the holes myself
(1) Extra large right angle bracket (Home Depot or Lowe's)
This bracket attaches to the launch rail with t-nuts and bolts/washers. Then attaches to the steel deflector with nuts/bolts/washers.
You will also need an assortment of T-nuts from 80/20, both for 1010 series rail, as well as 1515 series. T-nuts slide into the rail channel and are threaded for a specific type of bolt. These allow you to join the rails to each other and to other items.
Last but not least, from your local hardware store, you will need an assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts. I used stainless steel for mine, to resist the elements.
Aside from common hand tools, I used a cordless drill, a DeWalt compound miter saw, a non-ferrous metal blade, and a tap set for tapping the various holes.
More info to come...
Since you wanted to know how to make one, I am starting this thread!
Here is a photo...
It is made almost entirely out of 80/20, Inc. parts (the guys who manufacture most of the launch rails we use). I bought the bulk extrusions (launch rails) from 80/20's E-Bay store . Here, they sell "scratch and dent" pieces at discounted pricing. You can check the item details to see if the flaws are merely cosmetic, or if there are more serious flaws. I picked out pieces that had slight scratches, or were odd lengths.
Pieces which I could not find on the E-Bay store, I was able to order new, from one of 80/20's distributors, HPE Automation.
Here is a complete parts list for making this launch pad, as well as the sources from which I acquired the parts:
(3) 8020inc T-slot aluminum extrusions, 1515 series, approx. 8' length each (E-Bay store)
These make the launch rail, the four legs, and a small piece used to fasten the pivot assembly to the base.
(2) 8020inc T-slot aluminum extrusions, 1010 series, approx 6' total length (E-Bay store)
These are cut up to make the frame which bolts to the underside of, and reinforces the 8-sided aluminum base.
(1) 8020inc. Pivot Assembly, part# 4453 (HPE Automation)
This is the assembly which sits atop the aluminum base. It includes the two clamping handles, as well as the "nub" to which the launch rail is attached.
(4) 8020inc. Hinges, part# 4321 (HPE Automation)
These are the complete hinge assemblies which are bolted to the underside of the aluminum base. They each include a nub, to which you attach each leg.
(4) 8020inc. 0deg. Living Nubs, part# 4381 (HPE Automation)
These extra "nubs" go on the end of each leg. They are not absolutely necessary, but they do give the leg a nice finished look. They also prevent dirt from getting stuck in the legs, which then falls out onto your nice white rug as you drag the launch pad through your house!
(1) Custom 8-sided aluminum base, 1/4" thick (Local metal shop)
I had this piece machined by a local shop, then I drilled and tapped the holes myself.
(1) Custom 15" x 15" steel plate, 1/4" thick (Local metal shop)
Again I had this piece cut, but drilled the holes myself
(1) Extra large right angle bracket (Home Depot or Lowe's)
This bracket attaches to the launch rail with t-nuts and bolts/washers. Then attaches to the steel deflector with nuts/bolts/washers.
You will also need an assortment of T-nuts from 80/20, both for 1010 series rail, as well as 1515 series. T-nuts slide into the rail channel and are threaded for a specific type of bolt. These allow you to join the rails to each other and to other items.
Last but not least, from your local hardware store, you will need an assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts. I used stainless steel for mine, to resist the elements.
Aside from common hand tools, I used a cordless drill, a DeWalt compound miter saw, a non-ferrous metal blade, and a tap set for tapping the various holes.
More info to come...
