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Thread: Water recovery

  1. #31
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    18th January 2009
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    I was thinking: if you have experience with composites, get some lightweight fiberglass (.6-1.5 oz/yd^2) and use a tube coupler as a mandrel to roll your own tube. Use a plastic Estes nosecone and you are golden. One or at most two wraps of fiberglass should be plenty to stand up to model rocket stresses. Seal the fins well or use waferglass for them and then the motor and recovery system are your only worries.
    Brian J. Guzek
    NAR#86418, L1
    Clubs: Pittsburgh Space Command, Mantua Township Missile Association

    Competition Rocketry: Because three fins and a nosecone just doesn't cut it sometimes.

  2. #32
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    26th January 2010
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    If you have some extra cash, a madcow ALL fiberglass honest John would be a great investment as it is all fiberglass and is waterproof, the problem is getting it to float..... It is 230grams w/o motor..........
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    Pemtech unofficial minion #22134751

    I was told by someone that I live in isolated northern voids of the continental US

  3. #33
    Join Date
    19th March 2010
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    Oshkosh, WI
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    Wow those madcow rockets look really nice but are a bit much for where I am in this endeavor. I think my best bet is to buy an estes starter set with the plastic tail and nose and try to seal up the airframe tube the best I can.

    I will also look at the saucer idea though that would take more effort to build initially.

  4. #34
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    11th September 2009
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    Boston
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    I have an Estes Jinx. It's unfortunately OOP (out of production), but it's an all-plastic 13mm rocket. With a kevlar shock cord and one of my nylon streamers, it is completely waterproof.
    NAR 88789 L1 8/14/2009

    No more running. I aim to misbehave.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    20th January 2009
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    San Diego County, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neutron95 View Post
    DART San Diego flies on an island, and every launch, we usually have a rocket or two land in the water, and we usually recover them with a kayak, and the rockets usually survive.
    Been there, done that - literally! Certainly not the best thing for the airframe, and salt water to boot. Worst thing is the swelling of the paper motor casing.
    "One test result is worth one thousand expert opinions."
    -Wernher von Braun
    "If you have no intention of listening to, considering, and perhaps using, someone’s opinion, don’t ask for it."
    -W. J. King in The Unwritten Laws of Business

  6. #36
    Join Date
    19th January 2009
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    Washington D.C.
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    Been there a couple times myself. several rivers, ponds and lake Anne LOL! Not good for standard build Cardboard & wood models. but most have servived if gotten out quickly and the spent motor casing removed before they swell.

    To build a model specifically for water recovery wouldn't be all that hard, One of the Maryland funny meet events was floatation duration several years ago. Most folks used some sort of Plastic drink bottle as the fuselage to float the model with the motor mount above the waterline, as long as the fins are will sealed and painted some time in the water really doesn't hurt them, or sheet styrene could be used but that's a bit heavier
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    Last edited by Micromeister; 25th March 2010 at 02:10 PM.
    Keep em Flyin Micronzied
    John
    Mrcluster/Micromeister
    Nar-15731
    Co-moderator MicroMaxRockets yahoo group.
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MicroMaxRockets/

  7. #37
    Join Date
    27th March 2010
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    I wonder if one of Art Applewhite's rockets would work. It looks like some of the designs (or some variant of the designs) use aerobrake recovery and, with perhaps a little extra balast in the nose, could be stable in the water. A good coating of primer, paint, and clearcoat could be waterproof (and if that fails, polyurethane coating).

  8. #38
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    18th January 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrossApproximator View Post
    I wonder if one of Art Applewhite's rockets would work. It looks like some of the designs (or some variant of the designs) use aerobrake recovery and, with perhaps a little extra balast in the nose, could be stable in the water. A good coating of primer, paint, and clearcoat could be waterproof (and if that fails, polyurethane coating).
    Yeah.... I kind of like that idea.

    Mark K.
    Mark S. Kulka NAR 86134 L1, ASTRE 471, Adirondack Mtns., NY
    Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
    In the forest no one can hear you order a grande caffè misto.
    Warning: I brake for invisible squirrels

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkII View Post
    Yeah.... I kind of like that idea.

    Mark K.
    Sorry. I didn't see that.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrossApproximator View Post
    Sorry. I didn't see that.
    No, no - your post was good! It presented a more detailed explanation of the same idea that I had. Great minds think alike, you know.

    Mark K.
    Mark S. Kulka NAR 86134 L1, ASTRE 471, Adirondack Mtns., NY
    Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
    In the forest no one can hear you order a grande caffè misto.
    Warning: I brake for invisible squirrels

  11. #41
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    26th January 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrossApproximator View Post
    Sorry. I didn't see that.
    you just had a scrapdaddy moment
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    Pemtech unofficial minion #22134751

    I was told by someone that I live in isolated northern voids of the continental US

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScrapDaddy View Post
    you just had a scrapdaddy moment
    Be thankful that it was only for a moment. For its namesake, on the other hand....

    Mark K.
    Mark S. Kulka NAR 86134 L1, ASTRE 471, Adirondack Mtns., NY
    Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
    In the forest no one can hear you order a grande caffè misto.
    Warning: I brake for invisible squirrels

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