Extention cord clustering

Dollar store multiple wall socket splitter, up to 6 dollar store extention cords cut to 2' long, and micro clips installed. Is this a common practice for clustering? It seems to have ease of assembly and pretty reliable conections going in its favor. Would there be any drawbacks? (Obviously, I wouldn't leave the modified cords where kids would have access to them, just like I don't leave motors or exacto knives around. )

Originally posted by 10fttall
Dollar store multiple wall socket splitter, up to 6 dollar store extention cords cut to 2' long, and micro clips installed. Is this a common practice for clustering? It seems to have ease of assembly and pretty reliable conections going in its favor. Would there be any drawbacks? (Obviously, I wouldn't leave the modified cords where kids would have access to them, just like I don't leave motors or exacto knives around. )

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No - that sounds lethal - you have got exposed clips on an extension lead that can be plugged into a wall socket. That is deadly as you can have exposed connections at mains voltages.

If you are going to use mains cables for anything make sure it is done in such a way that you can't plug it in to the mains. A controller replacing the plug is not too bad as you can't connect it to the mains - but how do you connect the clips at the other end safely - the best way is to remove the socket at that end and add a non-mains connector at that end too. Safe and a cheap extension cable for rocketry only.

That is exactly how I built my launch controller - has a standard 20-Amp socket on the side that you plug in an extension cord.

I cut the female end off of a cord and put on alligator clips.
This is cheap and works well.
I've launched a 12-rocket drag race doing exaclty what is proposed.

Is it unsafe if some idiot decides to take it from my rocket-box and plug it in the wall - sure is!
Do I have this exact same thing on my electronics bench at home - sure do!

If somebody is dumb enough to plug this in without adequate caution, then Darwin SHOULD step in IMHO.

You could find a male receptical for the extension cord and use that on your launch controller. Then you can cut off the male (prongs) end of the extension cord and frustrate Darwin. You can find these recepticals at RV supply houses.

Our club uses 2 control boxes for different tasks. One for the racks and one for the larger semi-remote pads.

The remote pad box uses extension cords. The control box has recessed MALE connectors and we only use the FEMALE (receptacle) end of the extension cords to plug into those.

Thank you for the input, and yes, I see the point about the female connectors. I don't think it's that big of a deal, though. The point is an ultra cheap and simple alternative to a clip whip. finding a connector with 6 male attachment points would be the issue, possibly adding a 78th store to patronize on top of the 77 I already have to go to for various rocketry items.

Disclaimer: Of course, anyone smart enough to be clustering should realize that the severed cords should be handled with precautions almost on the level of a firearm, and should probably be made alone in the workshop to avoid any little people observing you cutting through a cord.

Actually what I was wondering was more along the lines of the reliability and effectiveness, since these components are built to route a constant flow. Would all the branches deliver the output of a momentary impulse at the same time, or might there be a delay on a few?

Originally posted by 10fttall
Would all the branches deliver the output of a momentary impulse at the same time, or might there be a delay on a few?

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No delay - there is no delay in the wiring - it is all in the igniter - if there is a difference in the resistance, the pyrogen, the igniter placement in the motor then that is where the ignition delays come from. The biggest difference being resistance. Get a cheap multimeter and check the resistance of al the igniters you use. They should be the same within a fraction of an Ohm. Next - build a relay controller capable of delivering large currents and then get a high current (not necessarily a high amp-hour) battery to power it.

Personally for clustering I use a single igniter and quickmatch. If I were to use multiple igniters my cluster controller supports a relay and I use a 12v battery capable of delivering 600 amps - it will fire multiple Estes igniters near enough simultaneously. Several wires soldered together into a clip whip will be at least as good (and somewhat cheaper) than dollar store mains adaptors.

If you want more help on relay controllers just ask. There are a lot of expert fliers around who can help.

I finally found the site I was looking for:
https://www.fiftythree.org/etherkiller/
Don't try this at home!

For added thrills, don't just plug your PC hardware into the mains. Go for the direct approach.

However, unlike some people, I'm neither homicidal nor suicidal. The cable is quite safe.

You can just about see one leg of a resistor through the hole in the plug. This little device doubles up as an anti-static protector and a way of scaring visitors.

Meanwhile, back to the original question, and I'd I'd agree with Daedalus - either use a different type of connector, or have the male on the box, preferably shrouded, and the female on the cable. It's not just Darwin you need to consider - Murphy also has a say in these matters...

Quickmatch is fine for us in the UK, but I believe it requires a licence in the US.

My own controller has a 12V sealed lead-acid battery, no relay, and the ability to connect to a clip whip using bullet connectors. It will fire 4 igniters reliably. More than that and I prefer to use Quickmatch anyway, not least to avoid having to worry about a short somewhere among so many igniters in close proximity!

Originally posted by 10fttall
Dollar store multiple wall socket splitter, up to 6 dollar store extention cords cut to 2' long, and micro clips installed. Is this a common practice for clustering? ... (Obviously, I wouldn't leave the modified cords where kids would have access to them... )

Click to expand...

I built a 12-pad controller that uses this approach. I got red power cords from a local surplus store and soldered alligator clips directly to them. Yes, it is possible to plug them into a wall and grab the clips. But I keep all these cables in their own box (with blast deflectors, clothespins, etc) in a large trunk full of GSE that never comes out of the garage except to go launching.

FWIW, I would think twice about modifying a longer cord that way (if you can see both ends of the cord at the same time, you'll likely recognize the problem.) I made my launch controller use 100' extension cords, unmodified. I wrap 10 of them up on a hose reel. If we ever lose power, I can feed the whole block off my generator

The advantages of using stuff made for 110v AC are that it's cheap, and it can handle the current. Just think through the safety aspects carefully, as lots of people here have already said.

--tc