Paper Shrouds

Heya, I'm a BAR and got back into this fun recently because my parents gave my 8 year old son an Estes Guardian rocket for his birthday. I did the rocket thing for years during the 70's and started when I was his age or maybe just a little older. He's learning a lot and I'm having fun even with the easy rockets. But...

My son picked out the Custom Rockets Galileo from a local hobby store and we're just about done with it. It was a bit above his skill level but he helped as much as he could. The problem I had with it was with rolling the paper shoud that comes with it. Way back in the day I don't remember ever building a rocket that had a shroud so this was new for me. It's pretty straight forward, cut it out, roll it up, glue it, cus. Right? As carefull as I was, there ended up being a couple of slight dents and a couple of creases in it. That mostly happened while I was trying to roll it up and glue the overlap. The seam was also pretty visible and wasn't at all flat. I'm a painter and had a small tub of Paint 'N Patch so I thinned it down and did my best to fill in the flaws. But while that made it better it's not perfect. I'd really prefer not to have to use as much, or any of the filler if I can help it. It's no big deal because it cost less than $5 for the rocket but I figure this is the time for both my son and me to learn how to do it right. I don't want this to happen on a more expensive rocket. Besides, I try to make every rocket look good no matter how much it cost. That's the lesson I'm teaching him too. So what's the trick or technique? I see a lot of cool looking rockets now that use a paper shroud so I'm sure a lot of you know how to do this so it looks perfect. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice.

Bruce

Bruce,

Shrouds can be a pain, but there are some tricks that can help. Here are some ideas (not sure if you've tried them already or not)...

First, here is a conventional paper shroud with conventional assembly.

Usually the glue tab (show in white in the attached figure) is angle cut so that the inside of the shroud is not affected by the double thick nature of the seam.

When glued, this glue tab should be on the INSIDE for visual reasons.

HOWEVER, as you have noticed, this results in a *bump* or seam that you may wish to fill. Filling isn't all that bad. You really only have to hide that area where the thickness of the paper is noticeable.

Now, as to forming a shroud to prevent wrinkles or creases, the best way that I have found is to *gently* press the shroud against the corner of a desk or table. The attached figure, which shows the forming of a conic paper cone will give you an idea of what I mean.

The softer the edge, the softer the curl to the paper and the less chance for creases.

I usually start at the middle of the shroud pattern and work out to one edge, then reverse and begin at the middle again and out to the remaining edge.

You may need to do this 2 or more times to get the curl of the shroud properly started.

Now, as to forming a shroud to prevent wrinkles or creases, the best way that I have found is to *gently* press the shroud against the corner of a desk or table. The attached figure, which shows the forming of a conic paper cone will give you an idea of what I mean.

The softer the edge, the softer the curl to the paper and the less chance for creases.

I usually start at the middle of the shroud pattern and work out to one edge, then reverse and begin at the middle again and out to the remaining edge.

You may need to do this 2 or more times to get the curl of the shroud properly started.

Lastly (for tonight, this slow server is killing me )

a trick to help reduce the amount of filling you may have to do.

When forming a shroud, cut OFF the "glue tab"

Then cut a rectangle of paper about 1/4" wide and as long as the shroud is tall.

Glue this to the back of the shroud along one of the glue edges such that half of the strip remains exposed. When dry, glue the other end of the shroud over this overhanging sliver of paper.

In this way you have formed your shroud, but the edges of the shroud are butt ended together so that there isn't a "step" the thickness of the paper.

If this isn't clear, let me know and I will draw up a quick figure.

Good luck!
jim

PS: Welcome to the forum! I hope you hang around

Now, as to forming a shroud to prevent wrinkles or creases, the best way that I have found is to *gently* press the shroud against the corner of a desk or table. The attached figure, which shows the forming of a conic paper cone will give you an idea of what I mean.

The softer the edge, the softer the curl to the paper and the less chance for creases.

I usually start at the middle of the shroud pattern and work out to one edge, then reverse and begin at the middle again and out to the remaining edge.

You may need to do this 2 or more times to get the curl of the shroud properly started.

I never use the "table top" method anymore...

Get a piece of foam rubber about 3/8 - 1/2" thick. Carpet pad works and I have gotten some as packing with ink cartridges.

Put the shroud on the foam and roll a dowel over it following the curve of the shroud.

I find that I get crease free shrouds every time using this method.

It's also great for body tubes on paper models.

EDIT: Jim, you would have known about this if you attended my paper modeling seminar at NEMROC. I'll try to remember to bring a handout from the class to the next launch.

I do the above, but for small shrouds, such as tailcones, I roll them on my thigh as suggested by te_groen31. Works great!

Originally posted by BARX2
I do the above, but for small shrouds, such as tailcones, I roll them on my thigh as suggested by te_groen31. Works great!

Click to expand...

Yup, For small tailcones, that method is great. I have a collection of small "sharp pointy sticks" that help.

Hold the shroud over a pot of lightly boiling water. The steam softens the paper slightly and makes it roll perfectly. I've used this method for 20 years.

Thanks for the useful replies. A good combination of common sense, creativity, and experience. I think the paper shroud is still a little advanced for my 8yo son but maybe I'll print off some copies of the next shroud I buy so he and I can both practice. That's probably a good idea anyway just in case I screw up the first one. I wish I'd had the foresight to do that with the Galileo shroud I did.

The ideas for the rolling technique will solve one problem I had but the idea of cutting off the tab and adding another glued to both sides is really good too. I will definitely try that one next time so I won't have so much smoothing to do along the seam.

I am an avid woodworker as a hobby and occasionally as a trade. I've ran into all sorts of problems and know many techiques to solve them. I've been woodworking for many years but it's been many years since I last built rockets. And back then I don't think I would've tried so hard to get that shroud just right. Eventually, I think I would've worked it out myself, (probably, Hopefully) but it's great to have a forum like this to go to with so many experienced and helpful people to speed up the process. I'm on several woodworking forums and I do my best to help out the newbies. Hopefully I'll be able to pass on some of my knowledge about rockets whenever I have enough to share. I'll get my boy on here sometime to say, "Hi". He's a great kid and doing this together with him is teaching him so much more than just how to build rockets. I'm learning a lot of patience too.

Bruce

Thigh method here to. I have just recently started getting into the paper models, not necessarly rockets, and they are addictive. Not only that they help you learn these tricks and come in handy in situations such as yours. Good luck there is a ton of info around and a lot of methods.

Originally posted by bennybbc
maybe I'll print off some copies of the next shroud I buy so he and I can both practice.

Click to expand...

Why wait? DJ Delorie has <a href="https://www.delorie.com/rockets/transitions.html">this web page</a> where you can generate and print your own shrouds.
Practice all you want! It's just paper.

once you get it formed and glued. I like to harden it with thin ca.

I also do it the way Erik posted
by curling the paper on a mousepad with a fat crochet needle, you just press down and run needle bach a forth and it will curl up nice and smooth.

Originally posted by brianc
Why wait? DJ Delorie has <a href="https://www.delorie.com/rockets/transitions.html">this web page</a> where you can generate and print your own shrouds.
Practice all you want! It's just paper.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link! I just gave it a try and the closest I could get the 1" square was 15/16". How can I adjust that? I've used Adobe before but just for viewing, the exact size never mattered before. Thanks.

Bruce

Originally posted by bennybbc
Thanks for the link! I just gave it a try and the closest I could get the 1" square was 15/16". How can I adjust that? I've used Adobe before but just for viewing, the exact size never mattered before.

Click to expand...

Make sure you don't have the 'shrink to fit' or 'scale to page' checkboxes
selected on the print dialog. You might have to use File--> Print to get the dialog,
sometimes clicking the print icon by passes the display.

Originally posted by BobH48

EDIT: Jim, you would have known about this if you attended my paper modeling seminar at NEMROC. I'll try to remember to bring a handout from the class to the next launch.

Click to expand...

Please do, Bob would love to get my hands on that!