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ditch the plastic ejection caps and replace with a bit of masking tape..it works fine and no plastic caps do deal with

venison jerky ... yum !

.......or reporting income

beautiful job ! I bet the real thing didn't even look that nice.
Worth the wait. and best of all scratch built !

I'm sure it could be done with a little engineering , using interlocking pieces with tight tolerances.

a lot has to do with age , decal paper has a limited lifespan

yes there must be membership issues

if you want to use any setting solutions , future/krylon will not jive.
I use micromark decal solution and it really snugs the decals down nicely when treated.

that's what I have , a tank in my model room with a line plumbed to the main compressor in the garage..the line runs under my house.. I have a gage,filter and shutoff valve in the room , totally...

I have picked up some great discounts from Belleville Hobby when ordering a certain minimum amount,, also they often have great deals on discontinued .
and you get free shipping and discount...

I have an airbrush booth in progress , or are you talking a large spray can setup ?

vinyl

after watching things that show up on antiques road show ... anything is possible

I've had rockets overpressure baffles a few times , either too small diameter rocket , clusters ,and too much ejection in the motors.... not a big fan of baffles
they do have their limits...

some flight pics on G80

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/F-104%20Starfighter/IMG_0940.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/F-104%20Starfighter/IMG_0941.jpg...

of course , thanks John

I went thru every detail and created drawings where needed , I also compiled a complete parts list.
Many things were not included in the original kit .
Now you can build one too !there's a build...

I went thru every detail and created drawings where needed , I also compiled a complete parts list.
Many things were not included in the original kit .
Now you can build one too !there's a build...

lol.... been there , learned some serious lessons as a kid,, like putting the contents of a signal flare on a big rock and lighting it with a match.
or the fact that gerbils are not aerodynamic.

they get hot, it softened the epoxy on my small saucer... still fun tho

I like to do all the seam and balsa filling/sanding before even starting on the first assembly step...
for me sanding around fins and obstacles is a pain in the.. !

sub'd to the thread .. looks good so far !

any good epoxy is better than the bob smith hobby stuff.. bob smith is full of fillers to make it a 1:1 ratio.
it's not hard to find better... once stepping up to an epoxy "system" it's very thin to...

chrome vinyl is much better than the trim monocote...it's thinner , easier to apply and more shine.
comes in a larger size and much cheaper at that.... not sure why monocote is the preferred ...

as bullet proof the rockets I've witnessed (and a few I've worked on)... they might as well be aluminum ...it would have saved a lot of work.

I don't like the createx clears at all, they are kinda like a clear rubberized coating.
the issue I've had with Future is all the rockets I used it on have an embedded layer of soot below the cone...

ditto .. the ammonia likes to eat at the plating ...... a couple of my ab's look 50 yrs old after using windex over the years.
and make sure to lube after ...! especially a high dollar ab

It's...

it's hard to beat enamel for durability and amazing gloss.
but yes the cure times are a factor.

for a sock knocking shine by airbrush try this,
paasche H with large tip.

2) 1oz. bottles of...

try using a brush to prod the decal around , if it starts to stick , seep water under the edge with a brush . retaining a layer of water under the decal will allow it to be manipulated however you...

if your trying to fit everything onto one page with a couple views and it's simple, than station #'s would be the cleanest


I prefer to have more dimensional views vs the simple station #...