bradycros
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I modified the shoulder of a rockets nose cone to prevent zippers. By modified, I mean the shoulder was removed completly. The base of the shoulder was removed first, then the shoulder. This left a plastic ring. All the molding seams and edges were sanded smooth. The ring was then glued into the top of the body tube.
To replace the shoulder, I cut a piece of coupler lengthwise and inserted it into the plastic ring. I traced a line where the edges of the coupler over lapped and then cut along that line to remove a slice of the coupler. This will be the new shoulder. Glue the little slice back onto the inside of the joint, if it's to small, make a new on from some scrap body tube.The coupler was soaked with thin CA and sanded smooth after drying.
The inside of the nose cone was rough'd up with course sand paper where the coupler/nose cone glue joint will be for better adhesion. Coupler was reinsert'd into the plastic ring and I rubbed the tip of a pencil around the top edge. The coupler was rised up enough so when the nose cone was placed over it, the coupler would bottom out on the inside of the nose cone. The coupler and the nose cone were then pushed down until the base of the nose cone and the top of the body tube mated. The nose cone was given a twist to transfer the the pencil lead from the coupler to the nose cone. Now you'll know right where to put the glue. Remove the nose cone and clean off the pencil lead from the coupler, it's slippery and you don't want anything slippery around when you make the glue joint. You'll have to make a bulkhead to put an eyebolt into. The other dodad you can see in the nose cone picture is my adjustable nose weight thingamabob. And down the body tube you can see the anchor ring for the removeable baffle.
To replace the shoulder, I cut a piece of coupler lengthwise and inserted it into the plastic ring. I traced a line where the edges of the coupler over lapped and then cut along that line to remove a slice of the coupler. This will be the new shoulder. Glue the little slice back onto the inside of the joint, if it's to small, make a new on from some scrap body tube.The coupler was soaked with thin CA and sanded smooth after drying.
The inside of the nose cone was rough'd up with course sand paper where the coupler/nose cone glue joint will be for better adhesion. Coupler was reinsert'd into the plastic ring and I rubbed the tip of a pencil around the top edge. The coupler was rised up enough so when the nose cone was placed over it, the coupler would bottom out on the inside of the nose cone. The coupler and the nose cone were then pushed down until the base of the nose cone and the top of the body tube mated. The nose cone was given a twist to transfer the the pencil lead from the coupler to the nose cone. Now you'll know right where to put the glue. Remove the nose cone and clean off the pencil lead from the coupler, it's slippery and you don't want anything slippery around when you make the glue joint. You'll have to make a bulkhead to put an eyebolt into. The other dodad you can see in the nose cone picture is my adjustable nose weight thingamabob. And down the body tube you can see the anchor ring for the removeable baffle.
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