clearcoat over decals?

[Johnny1Eye]

I have always been told that spraying clearcoat over the decals is the thing to do. Every time I have tried it in the past, I get a runny mess.

Is there something I'm missing? Getting back into rocketry, after 10+ years off (BAR +2). I would like to put matte clearcoat on a rocket I am building, after I put the decals on... don't want a mess. Allready had to re-learn the "multiple thin coats" thing with spray paint....

-Jon

[troj]

I have always been told that spraying clearcoat over the decals is the thing to do. Every time I have tried it in the past, I get a runny mess.

Clear, especially, has to go on light or it runs.

-Kevin

[stickershock23]

Another tip. always wipe your rocket down with some rubbing alcohol before you apply it. clear really does not like to stick to anything greasy.. even fingerprints.

[WDG]

Another tip. always wipe your rocket down with some rubbing alcohol before you apply it. clear really does not like to stick to anything greasy.. even fingerprints.

So I know you have seen the way various producers of bottled consumer products avoided having to surface treat plastic to ensure adhesion for labels. Some use very thin plastic rather than paper on which to print labels. The labels are then roboticly loaded into the blow molder and the bottle is blown into the label - the label will not come off and need not be separated from the rest of the bottle when reground (either in plant or post consumer). That is for detergent bottles, anti-freeze, etc. But beverage bottles often have a heat shrink sort of label. Do you, or do you know of anyone who does so, make custom printed shrinkable labels that may work on rockets?

[stickershock23]

So I know you have seen the way various producers of bottled consumer products avoided having to surface treat plastic to ensure adhesion for labels. Some use very thin plastic rather than paper on which to print labels. The labels are then roboticly loaded into the blow molder and the bottle is blown into the label - the label will not come off and need not be separated from the rest of the bottle when reground (either in plant or post consumer). That is for detergent bottles, anti-freeze, etc. But beverage bottles often have a heat shrink sort of label. Do you, or do you know of anyone who does so, make custom printed shrinkable labels that may work on rockets?


Shrinkable? I don't know of anyone off hand.

Is there a reason vinyl will not work for you? my vinyl decals are the same vinyl used for professional signs and for automotive and RV use. I can also do printed on WRAP vinyl. that means they go on the same martial used to wrap cars. you know the ones you see where the whole car is covered in some sort of art. they are rated to last 5 years on a vehicle in direct weather for 5 years. that means they are going to last a lifetime on your rocket.

YOu can also clearcoat over my decals if you like this will make them look a shiny and last even longer.

I have done regular vinyl decals for a carbon fiber rocket that did almost Mach 2. the decals did NOT peel off, they actually melted from the heat.

I hope that helps you out!

[Micromeister]

I have always been told that spraying clearcoat over the decals is the thing to do. Every time I have tried it in the past, I get a runny mess.

Is there something I'm missing? Getting back into rocketry, after 10+ years off (BAR +2). I would like to put matte clearcoat on a rocket I am building, after I put the decals on... don't want a mess. Allready had to re-learn the "multiple thin coats" thing with spray paint....

-Jon

Jon:
A couple comments:
a: NO sparying "clearcoat" over your completed model and decals is NOT the best thing to do. Clear coats become brittle and flake off with a little time and when bumped and banged around in the car and on landings.. when they do they take some of the decal with it.
Better to give a finished model a couple coats of Furture floor finish or Nu-finish polymer instead. this "protects" your decals more then any clear coats.

B: That said however; There is a reason to clear coat most decals produced these days and all of the after market decals being printed on Alps and other dry transfer ink decals. Because these printers lay down rows of ribbon ink if they are not clear coated after printing they tend to come apart along the 1/2" division lines during application. Some of the newer Silkscreened mass production kit decals recently have been printed so thinly they also seem to fall apart badly during application.
To prevent this there are several methods. Best is to coat them with "microscale" decal clear. This is a brush-on liquid that drys very clear and Super fast.
Next best is to apply very light coats of Krylon UV resistant Gloss Clear #1305 allowing them to dry between coats and keeping the overall coating light as spraying to heavy a coat will crinkle the decals on the sheet. It is best to do either of these processes with the complete decal sheet taped to a table top or board laying flat as I've done with the very thinly printed decals from an Interceptor-E kit in the photos.
It's also possible to use very old (30yr+) decals by applying a fresh coat of Clear before cutting them apart for application.
Hope this helps some

[Johnny1Eye]

Future floor finish? really? Is there something special about that brand, or can I use the stuff I use at work almost every day (read free).

Nice tip about spraying decal sheets. I have a few OLD rockets in the closet, last time I built one, the decals were junk.

-Jon

[Micromeister]

No ya really need to use "Future" or "Pledge with Future" as Future is an acrylic polymer rather then just a wax.

Same with Nu-Finish; some call it a wax but it isn't, it's really a polymer that bonds with the dried paint film instead of simply sitting on top.

Hope this helps.

[Johnny1Eye]

Most, if not all comercial floor finish is "acrylic polymer". Anyways, what about weight? Would this be an OK technique for smaller rockets? I would have to brush it on... I'm guessing that makes for a pretty thick coat.

-Jon

[troj]

Most, if not all comercial floor finish is "acrylic polymer". Anyways, what about weight? Would this be an OK technique for smaller rockets? I would have to brush it on... I'm guessing that makes for a pretty thick coat.

The thing to do would be to try it on a set of decals you don't care if you ruin. That way, if it reacts with the decals, it's not an issue.

I'd apply it with an airbrush, if you have one. Otherwise, try the brush method and see how well it works.

-Kevin

[Micromeister]

Most, if not all comercial floor finish is "acrylic polymer". Anyways, what about weight? Would this be an OK technique for smaller rockets? I would have to brush it on... I'm guessing that makes for a pretty thick coat.

-Jon

What Troj said! Not all things work that same. The only floor finish that i've had any luck with at all is Future. Personally I have not tired the Pledge with Future, but some have reported is works.
My personal preferrence is Nu-Finish polymer.

Most people brush Future on with a polybrush without adding much in mass, but as troj mentioned an airbrush is a better way to go.

[troj]

I suspect (but could well be wrong on this) that Future is nothing but a household strength commercial floor wax -- diluted to make it easier and less expensive to apply.

-Kevin

[Micromeister]

I suspect (but could well be wrong on this) that Future is nothing but a household strength commercial floor wax -- diluted to make it easier and less expensive to apply.

-Kevin

Kevin:
Future is NOT a wax at all.

[troj]

Future is NOT a wax at all.

I know that; a lot of floor finishes sold as "wax" aren't a wax, either....

-Kevin

[cjp]

Does Future shine affect vinyl decals in anyway?How about slide on decals?

[stickershock23]

Does Future shine affect vinyl decals in anyway?How about slide on decals?
I have never tried future on vinyl decals, I would be willing to send out a sample for someone to try and report back their results.

:confused2:

[cjp]

I have never tried future on vinyl decals, I would be willing to send out a sample for someone to try and report back their results.

:confused2:

I just bought a red max decal from you,but would willing to report back on with a sample.

[Micromeister]

haven't used Future on printed vinyl decals but have used it on applied 3M and Avery adhesive backed vinyl home made graphics and lettering. Works just fine as long as all the wetting agent used in the application has had a few days to evaporate and the vinyl has been re-squeeged down before the Future is applied.

Have used Nu-Finish on Estes type stickers.. which seems to lift the edges if that helps any?

[stickershock23]

I just bought a red max decal from you,but would willing to report back on with a sample.

Cool tell us how they work! if by chance it does cause a problem with the decal I will be willing to fix it too.

[cjp]

I bought some Future and applied it to my wetslide decals,it really worked out great.I'm waiting to get my vinyl decals in the mail.They should be here in a day or two.Will keep you posted.

[Marlin523]

I would love to have a sample. I've never ordered from you and would really like to try them. I promise to "Future" them and report back.

[roadkill]

I applied Future over Mark's (Stickershock)
marvelous 4inch Red Max decals and the results
were fantastic.

It made the colors and contrast much brighter,
the whole rocket looks much more vivid without
any side effects at all.
Guys at the latest launch used big words like
'superb' and 'exquisite' ...

Pix to follow one of these days...
:)

[jim fustini]

The key here is "Acrylic" whether it be Future or spray can clear coats. It is a polymer. A plastic. I have used Rust-oleum "Painters Touch" and Faskolor air brush paints on all my model and high power builds BOTH are Acrylic based pigments. With great results. I have spayed the Painters touch over waterslide and vinyl decals with no problems on over sixty rockets and RC cars. Always spray a light "tack coat" first let it dry a little while, and then spray your cover coats. (this will prevent runs) The Faskolor is a water based paint. but does not give you a real glossy finish like Future of painters choice. But it will absolutely not harm or react with any paint I have used on any of my rockets and it is a little pricey. I sprayed it over a 30 year old sheet of water slide decals with no problems. The clear coat paint most likely to ruin decals are enamels and lacquers.

[jim fustini]

Here are some more of my painted rockets.

[cjp]

Nice paint jobs on all your rockets,they really stand out with the gloss finish.

[stickershock23]

I would love to have a sample. I've never ordered from you and would really like to try them. I promise to "Future" them and report back.


Shoot me an E-mail I will hook you up!

Mark

Stickershock@knac.com

Roadkill, Thanks I had never tried it. I am glad it works out and looks good!
Cant wait to see it!

[roadkill]

Looks pretty good to me...

http://www.drsuesrocketworks.com/sitebuilder/images/P10100116-377x505.jpg

Kinda cloudy day, mr. Max is a lot
more shiny than shows up in the pic...

[stickershock23]

so I have to ask, I have never used "future" I pictured it as a spray can of a wax like substance

I must be mistaken, can some one clue me in to how it works?

Sue the Red max looks SWEET!

[roadkill]

'Future' is actually clear liquid
that comes in a plastic bottle,
barely thicker than water.

Some prefer airbrushing it on but
I used two coats applied with a foambrush.
Just go easy on it...

[Micromeister]

Should look something like this in the store:)

[stickershock23]

thanks for the info. I have seen the bottles, it just never came to mind to use it on rockets.

Does it actually harden?

[Stymye]

It's like liquid acrylic and dries semi-hard like acrylic paint
one advantage is it can be stripped/re-applied simply by using more future over it.(and it smells flowery).

[troj]

Should look something like this in the store:)

Well, except for the blue background -- most stores don't get that fancy in that portion of the store.... :D

-Kevin

[kelltym88]

Will Pledge with Future in it work as well? I was at a Wallyworld yesterday and all they had was Pledge with Future.

[Johnny1Eye]

Will Pledge with Future in it work as well?


Same stuff, new name. Tried it for the first time the other day. Works great... those little poly brushes will hold an amazing amount.... very easy to use way too much.

[TheAviator]

Should Future be thinned before putting it through an airbrush? Also, is there any special clean-up required? (I would imagine not from what has been said, but it doesn't hurt to ask.)

[Stymye]

No thinning,because it's already very thin.
Airbrushing it is a little tricky, you have to spray in very light coats,letting it tack up between coats , or it's guarenteed to run.
The good news is , if you mess up... simply wipe it with future and spray some more.

it also helps to lightly scuff the surface if you have a problem with it beading up in areas.

clean the airbrush(thouroghly !) using windex(with ammonia)..I once glued my passche vl together by not cleaning it well enough.
Now I use a cheap ammonia cleaner concentrate from Dollar general(it's works much better)

I use a cheaper airbrush, just for future application anymore

[stickershock23]

I am also curious how well "future" helps hold decals down.

I recommend clear over small vinyl decals, it helps hold down the little parts.
they seem to catch easy when they are handled a lot. a good example.

On the DER RED MAX set there are all the little "kills" markings (tanks trucks boats etc) they have little tiny edges etc, if you handle a rocket a lot you may pull some of those small edges. clearcoat seals those onto the rocket,
so when you handle them you can't get under them at all.

Will the future dry hard enough to do the same thing. Sue?

I do think that Future looks great. I just wonder if it protects as well.

thanks for all the input guys it really does help out!

[Micromeister]

I am also curious how well "future" helps hold decals down.

I recommend clear over small vinyl decals, it helps hold down the little parts.
they seem to catch easy when they are handled a lot. a good example.

On the DER RED MAX set there are all the little "kills" markings (tanks trucks boats etc) they have little tiny edges etc, if you handle a rocket a lot you may pull some of those small edges. clearcoat seals those onto the rocket,
so when you handle them you can't get under them at all.

Will the future dry hard enough to do the same thing. Sue?

I do think that Future looks great. I just wonder if it protects as well.

thanks for all the input guys it really does help out!

Theres your first mistake Stickershock.
What makes you think another layer of clearcoat holds anything Down? ALL; and I mean ALL clear coats dry to about a 1mil film. Being Clear it has NO overlapping pigment platlets to create the bond as does pigmented dried paint films. Because of its chemical makeup it become extremely brittle after exposure to UV in any form. At least the dry Polymer film formed by either Future or NU-finish crosslink and have UV inhibitors.

Recently Krylon and others have been releasing a UV resistant Clear that has made at least that part of the problem a bit better but it's still not a durable film for handling.
Oh for the days of REAL Silk Screened Decals with good Ol'e NazDar Decal Clear silkscreen ink overprinting. Yellows like all gee-wiz but at least the thickness made for handling protection.

When I print my Alps decals I make a habbit of applying at least 2 very light coats of Krylon #1309 matte UV clear followed by a finishing coat of 1305 Gloss UV clear. This generally give the decals enough body to stand up to a good bit of handling under a final applications of NU-Finish or Future.

[stickershock23]

John,

Thank you for the input. sounds reasonable.

One thing. I am not saying the clear will hold the decal in place, the adhesive does that. the problem I see is like this.

look at a set of DER RED max decals. look at the "kills" part. there is a tank. look at its barrel. the barrel cut out is almost as thicker than it is wide. that means the adhesive has very little area to make that little tiny tab adhere to the rocket. the same is true with the battle ship, it has a tiny antenna looks like a cross. now the adhesive will hold it down to a point. but is you handle it alot then you get greasy fingerprints right at that little tiny piece of vinyl.

The greas from your hands will to some point dissolve the adhesive. especially if you have been flying rockets, cleaning cases etc. all of that stuff on your hands will work at the glue and make it fail after some time. BUT only on the little tiny parts, the big ones have enough adhesive behind them (larger area) so they really don't see the affect.

By putting a thin coat of clear over your decals you effectively seal that side of the decal so the grease and worse from your hands cant get to the glue to start breaking it down.

I do totally agree that CHEAP clear coats will yellow with time spent in the sun. BUT if you are spraying on automotive or similar clear, they have all sorts of good stuff to keep them from doing that.

I hope that clears up what I was trying to get across.

Me personally I do NOT clearcoat over vinyl decals. unless i want to seal in those tiny details. as a matter of fact the ONLY rocket I have that I have clearcoated over is my SMALL der red max (2.6") my big one (5.5") has NOT been coated and the decals are holding out very well.

One more side not. Stickershock does do PRINTED vinyl decals. and they all get a UV coating! it is made specifically to protect your decals from the sun and fading!

Thanks for all the input!

[Stymye]

Mark,for the kill markings, future would help a little bit , but not near as well as a good spray clear.
Think of it as a very runny clear acrylic liquid that's used to give some shine and to protect waterslides.but not so much for vinyl.

future does a great job of repairing a lifting waterslide decal.I could imagine it also repairing a lifting vinyl decal if it were seeped under the loose vinyl.

[Pem Tech]

clean the airbrush(thouroghly !) using windex(with ammonia)..I once glued my passche vl together by not cleaning it well enough.
Now I use a cheap ammonia cleaner concentrate from Dollar general(it's works much better)

I use a cheaper airbrush, just for future application anymore


SO there is no problem with using paint in the same air brush as Future? Just started learning how to use my new Paashe airbrush and I read somewhere about the possibility of fish-eye when spraying paint from the brush after using other materials.

[Stymye]

you can spray future and acrylics in the same AB.
I have tinted Future with acrylic paint to act as a candy color, it works !

[cjp]

Looks great on the Der Red Max,haven't had a chance to put on the decals you sent me stickershock23,but they look GREAT!!!!The rockets that I put Future on really shine.

[stickershock23]

Well I went out and bought a bottle... ok I didn't just go out to buy Future, but I saw it and said WTH....

[cjp]

Well I went out and bought a bottle... ok I didn't just go out to buy Future, but I saw it and said WTH....

I just put your decals on today and after 45min. of dry time,applied Future to my Der Big Red Max.It looks Great.Thanks stickershock23.Will try to post pictures.cjp.

[stickershock23]

Glad you like them, Can't wait to see it!

[Marlin523]

Received my decal today. Thanks so much. I'll report soon and also place an order.

[cjp]

I just put your decals on today and after 45min. of dry time,applied Future to my Der Big Red Max.It looks Great.Thanks stickershock23.Will try to post pictures.cjp.

I took these this morning,the picture of the nosecone has my fingerprint on it.

[Stymye]

It definatly has that gloss shine to it.

how did you apply it?

[cjp]

With a small 1 inch painters brush,I found that a little Future goes a long way with only a single coat on it.It's better than any clear coat I have tried,but I just got back into this hobby this past summer after 38 years.

[SteveA]

I use clear lacquer. Depending on what it is and how big, I use Model Master clear gloss (shot from an airbrush) or a rattle can of super gloss. The trick is light coats to avoid the runs. With a rattle can, I just back-off a bit and fog.:D

[Marlin523]

I receive a "sample" from Stickershock" with the promise that I would report using Future over his product. I cut the decal in half, placed one half on each of two tubes, treated one-half with Future and the other half without. The results showed the half treated with Future were quite a bit shinier and seemed to have a protective coating. The Future does darken the paint some, but the protective feature seems worth it. Thanks Stickershock. I'm your newest fan and will send an order soon.

[stickershock23]

I receive a "sample" from Stickershock" with the promise that I would report using Future over his product. I cut the decal in half, placed one half on each of two tubes, treated one-half with Future and the other half without. The results showed the half treated with Future were quite a bit shinier and seemed to have a protective coating. The Future does darken the paint some, but the protective feature seems worth it. Thanks Stickershock. I'm your newest fan and will send an order soon.

Thanks Marlin, I think the Future is going to work rather well,

I know a picture may not do your results justice, but it would be nice if you could post a picture.

[KevinDunn]

Should I sand the finish coat before applying vinyl decals? What about before applying clearcoat?

My rattlecan finish coat looks good, but not great. I was careful to apply thin coats, but the result is that the finish coat is not glass-smooth. There is texture to the coat where the individual paint drops hit. It looks good straight on, but when I look at it from a glancing angle, reflections are grainy.

I have gotten glass-smooth surfaces in the past with a thicker coat, but the danger is that it will sag. So I am at a crossroads:

a) Sand and apply another, thicker finish coat. Then stickershock decals.
b) Sand and apply decals. Then clearcoat.
c) Apply decals (without sanding first). Then clearcoat.
d) Apply decals. Then Future.

Any suggestions?

[MarkII]

Kevin: First, make sure that the paint coat is thoroughly dried and cured. (Give it at least a week.) Then get a bottle of 3M Scratch Remover from your local auto parts store. Apply some to a clean rag (it is a thickened liquid), and use it to rub down the paint surface, working bit by bit in one area at a time. Apply more Scratch Remover to the rag as needed; keep it moist and don't let it get too dry. Apply Scratch Remover to the rag and then use that to polish the paint, rather than squirting the Remover directly onto the paint. With a little bit of patience and some elbow grease, you can remove much or all of that graininess and get the surface much smoother. Slightly dampen another clean rag and use it to wipe off any residual Scratch Remover when you are done.

There is a technique to applying spray paint - there is more to it than just pointing the nozzle at the rocket and pressing down. The technique is simple and easy to learn, and done correctly, it will produce even coats and help you to avoid getting those gritty patches. I don't want to get into it here, though, because I don't want to turn this into a painting thread.



http://www.goodwilltoo.com/prodimg/21637.jpg

[slipperyfrog]

Mark, future works really good at holding the smaller decals down. The thin layer is all you need as long you have some adhesive tacking the vinyl down.

[Flatlander]

Kevin: First, make sure that the paint coat is thoroughly dried and cured. (Give it at least a week.) Then get a bottle of 3M Scratch Remover from your local auto parts store. Apply some to a clean rag (it is a thickened liquid), and use it to rub down the paint surface, working bit by bit in one area at a time. Apply more Scratch Remover to the rag as needed; keep it moist and don't let it get too dry. Apply Scratch Remover to the rag and then use that to polish the paint, rather than squirting the Remover directly onto the paint. With a little bit of patience and some elbow grease, you can remove much or all of that graininess and get the surface much smoother. Slightly dampen another clean rag and use it to wipe off any residual Scratch Remover when you are done.

http://www.goodwilltoo.com/prodimg/21637.jpg

MarkII: Have you used the scratch remover technique before applying vinyl decals? Do they adhere ok?

[Captain Ron]

Another tip. always wipe your rocket down with some rubbing alcohol before you apply it. clear really does not like to stick to anything greasy.. even fingerprints.

NO not rubbing alcohol, some rubbing alcohols have oils in them, and/or high water content.

I know what you mean though, however i would suggest that the bottle says "isopropyl alcohol"


I have had excellent results from Testors or Model masters "Top coat" clear and lately I have been using Model masters "Pearl coat" clear over my whites...

Its very user friendly, dries fast, but like anything else, dont spray too close or it will run and turn yellow.

I tried using Krylon's Crystal clear howver i wasnt pleased with the results as in my case it tuned flat. not clear.... I had to spray many multiple coats to get it to shine.

[Bone Daddy]

Where do you find Future?

I tried Home Depot, Walmart and Kroger grocery store with no luck.

I just used Rustoleum 2x gloss on my Wizard Space Transport posted in the Wizard gallery with decidedly mix results.

Body tube/fins: no problem with paint or decals. Primer Rustoleum 2x (last time. Nozzle prone to plugging. I like the Rustoleum Auto Primer much better.) Pink is Krylon, the rest is 2x Rustoleum. Had to sand down on small drip at the base of the body tube. (I know mixing brands of paint is not always a good idea, but I've had no problem applying Krylon over Rustoleum primer.

Nose cone: had problems here. Paint is the same pink as above. Paint blistered -for lack of a better name - in places. Decals are fine. I did not prime the nose cone. I guessing this was the root of the problem.

These were very old decals I found at LHS. Decals were prone to breaking and had to applied gingerly.

// Micro: Thanks for posting the pics of your trials.//

Bones

[stickershock23]

NO not rubbing alcohol, some rubbing alcohols have oils in them, and/or high water content.

I know what you mean though, however i would suggest that the bottle says "isopropyl alcohol"


I have had excellent results from Testors or Model masters "Top coat" clear and lately I have been using Model masters "Pearl coat" clear over my whites...

Its very user friendly, dries fast, but like anything else, dont spray too close or it will run and turn yellow.

I tried using Krylon's Crystal clear howver i wasnt pleased with the results as in my case it tuned flat. not clear.... I had to spray many multiple coats to get it to shine.


Very true. I may have used the Wrong term (rubbing alcohol) what I use is the 97% isoproyl

Probably because I could not spell Isopropyl .. LOL

[Captain Ron]

Where do you find Future?

I tried Home Depot, Walmart and Kroger grocery store with no luck.

I just used Rustoleum 2x gloss on my Wizard Space Transport posted in the Wizard gallery with decidedly mix results.

Body tube/fins: no problem with paint or decals. Primer Rustoleum 2x (last time. Nozzle prone to plugging. I like the Rustoleum Auto Primer much better.) Pink is Krylon, the rest is 2x Rustoleum. Had to sand down on small drip at the base of the body tube. (I know mixing brands of paint is not always a good idea, but I've had no problem applying Krylon over Rustoleum primer.

Nose cone: had problems here. Paint is the same pink as above. Paint blistered -for lack of a better name - in places. Decals are fine. I did not prime the nose cone. I guessing this was the root of the problem.

These were very old decals I found at LHS. Decals were prone to breaking and had to applied gingerly.

// Micro: Thanks for posting the pics of your trials.//

Bones


It happens. I think a lot of people out there dont know that the molding process leaves a waxy residue on plastic parts. I usually wash my plastic pieces with dish soap and water to remove any oily residue on the plastic and hit it up with some 400-600 sandpaper, something fine enough to knock down any shine, then prime N' paint....

[Micromeister]

It happens. I think a lot of people out there dont know that the molding process leaves a waxy residue on plastic parts. I usually wash my plastic pieces with dish soap and water to remove any oily residue on the plastic and hit it up with some 400-600 sandpaper, something fine enough to knock down any shine, then prime N' paint....

Sorry have to Object again to this MIS-conception perpetuated by many very good Plastic model magazines and modelers but Soap...ALL & ANY Soap.... ALWAYS leaves a residue on plastics. 70% or better Isopropyl Alcohol removes all mold release residue without adding any fish-eye producing soap residue. Many of us Plastic modelers have been trying to correct this Soapy water washing mis-info issue for decades...it just keeps getting repeated.

If you think you must wash your plastic parts, do so in Warm SOAP FREE water with a Fine or ultrafine scotchbrite pad. DO NOT ADD ANY Dishwashing detergent or soap. Towel dry and let washed parts sit over night to ensure all water has completely evaporated before attempting to prime or paint.