Applewhite 38mm Cinco

[JAL3]

Since persons unknown took off with my King Kraken, the 38mm Art Applewhite Cinco is the only HPR rocket I have left that is built. I really like the original finish and it was appreciated by kids but the decals I made up are peeling off. I want to redo it the same way but don't know the best way to go about it.

My plan right now is to strip off the damages decals and replace them with new ones. Then, unlike the first time around, paint the whole thing with Future.

Is there a better/more durable way of doing this?

[MarkII]

The Cinco is constructed of foamcore - I don't think that you would want to try using any of the decal remover solvents on it. I certainly wouldn't. Maybe the best thing to do is to resurface the Cinco with white contact paper, and apply your new decals to that. Just remove what is loose, then cover the rocket all over with the contact paper. I don't think that it would add all that much weight (it is a high-power rocket, after all ;) ) and the Cinco is quite light in weight anyway.

My 38mm Cinco is still in primer, and still only has made one flight. :o (Which is fitting, because it is named after a Plymouth, after all... :D )

Mark \\.

[JAL3]

The Cinco is constructed of foamcore - I don't think that you would want to try using any of the decal remover solvents on it. I certainly wouldn't. Maybe the best thing to do is to resurface the Cinco with white contact paper, and apply your new decals to that. Just remove what is loose, then cover the rocket all over with the contact paper. I don't think that it would add all that much weight (it is a high-power rocket, after all ;) ) and the Cinco is quite light in weight anyway.

My 38mm Cinco is still in primer, and still only has made one flight. :o (Which is fitting, because it is named after a Plymouth, after all... :D )

Mark \\.

I think that all the old decals can be removed by just rubbing them away. I might have to do a little sanding but that's doubtful

THe originals were put on with clear decal paper. I'm out of that and will probably print it on white paper. I'll have to cut to shape anyway.

I guess I want to find a way to 1) make sure they stick and 2) stay protected.

Kids always liked this one at the launches.

JAL

[MarkII]

I think that all the old decals can be removed by just rubbing them away.
Ah, got it. Well, what did you do to prep the surface the first time? Did you have any problems with air bubbles? I don't know, maybe putting on a coat of primer, then one of Gloss White might help (it seems to work well for tubes...), then apply the decals. I have heard that the Microscale products work well to give decals enhanced adhesion.


Kids always liked this one at the launches.

JAL
I can see why. I always liked that decor on your Cinco.

Another possibility is to get a quote from StickerShock for printing your design onto vinyl.

Mark \\.

[JAL3]

Ah, got it. Well, what did you do to prep the surface the first time? Did you have any problems with air bubbles? I don't know, maybe putting on a coat of primer, then one of Gloss White might help (it seems to work well for tubes...), then apply the decals. I have heard that the Microscale products work well to give decals enhanced adhesion.


I can see why. I always liked that decor on your Cinco.

Another possibility is to get a quote from StickerShock for printing your design onto vinyl.

Mark \\.


I think the first time was just on the foamboard. I painted the nether regions red but I don't remember doing anything up top. I don't mind painting it this time around. Would that really help? Finishing is my weakest area.

As to the vinyl, I thought that was all monochrome.

[Donaldsrockets]

I love my Cinco 38mm. I've flown it on a wide variety of motors from G motors up to an I161W.

Recently I flew it on a G339N, really ripped off the pad and the rugged foamboard construction took the abuse in stride.:D

I'm highly thinking about building another one and glassing it so I can fly it on the larger Warp-9 motors such as the H669N and H999N.:D

[MarkII]

I think the first time was just on the foamboard. I painted the nether regions red but I don't remember doing anything up top. I don't mind painting it this time around. Would that really help? Finishing is my weakest area.
I think it might, but I'm not 100% sure. And if it did, I wouldn't be able to say for sure exactly why (but I have theories). I just have a gut feeling about it. I'd like to see what others think, though. I don't recall; did you make sure that the top seam was filled in good and that it was completely flush with the top surface, and that the surface prep was even all the way around?


As to the vinyl, I thought that was all monochrome.
No, apparently he can do color, too. Check out what Mark is planning to do for the Citation Patriot here (http://www.stickershock23.com/ROCKETRY_DECALS_2.html). Whether or not he can execute your design in vinyl is another story. You would have to contact him to find that out. Getting the decals made in vinyl might be the best way to go, if he can do them the way you want them to be done.

I'm just trying to brainstorm here, that's all.

Mark \\.

[JAL3]

I love my Cinco 38mm. I've flown it on a wide variety of motors from G motors up to an I161W.

Recently I flew it on a G339N, really ripped off the pad and the rugged foamboard construction took the abuse in stride.:D

I'm highly thinking about building another one and glassing it so I can fly it on the larger Warp-9 motors such as the H669N and H999N.:D

I love mine too and want to restore it to respectability. I've never flown it on anything but an H and those are hard to come by without a LEUP. My club launches are so small that they are not worth the motor vendors' time.:(

[JAL3]

I think it might, but I'm not 100% sure. And if it did, I wouldn't be able to say for sure exactly why (but I have theories). I just have a gut feeling about it. I'd like to see what others think, though.


No, apparently he can do color, too. Check out what Mark is planning to do for the Citation Patriot here (http://www.stickershock23.com/ROCKETRY_DECALS_2.html). Whether or not he can execute your design in vinyl is another story. You would have to contact him to find that out. Getting the decals made in vinyl might be the best way to go, if he can do them the way you want them to be done.

I'm just trying to brainstorm here, that's all.

Mark \\.


That's all I look for. Its the reason I post.

I fugure that if I did this as a "just me" hobby, I'd still be working way way up from EX2s and RTFs. When I got restarted as a BAR, I wanted to learn to do things right.

[MarkII]

I love my Cinco 38mm. I've flown it on a wide variety of motors from G motors up to an I161W.

Recently I flew it on a G339N, really ripped off the pad and the rugged foamboard construction took the abuse in stride.:D

I'm highly thinking about building another one and glassing it so I can fly it on the larger Warp-9 motors such as the H669N and H999N.:D
I can't imagine what this model would look like going up on an H999N! :cool: Talk about peeling decals!

The foamboard that is used for it is the toughest kind I have ever seen. It is certainly not your average craft store foamcore! Yet it is not Gatorfoam, either, because the top and bottom layers aren't wood.

I also have the 29mm version, which I haven't gotten around to building yet. It is identical to the 38mm, with the same materials, and just a smaller pattern.

Still waiting for the 54mm version... :D

Mark \\.

[JAL3]

The foamboard that is used for it is the toughest kind I have ever seen. It is certainly not your average craft store foamcore! Yet it is not Gatorfoam, either, because the top and bottom layers aren't wood.

I also have the 29mm version, which I haven't gotten around to building yet. It is identical to the 38mm, with the same materials, and just a smaller pattern.

Still waiting for the 54mm version... :D

Mark \\.

If I'm not mistaken, Art gets it at Wallmart. I'll ask him next time I see him.

[kandsrockets]

John I know who can make you decals of the picture you have. They can print and cut vinyl. Give Dave Rose at Graphix and Stuff http://www.graphixnstuff.com/ shout. Tell Dave I sent you.

[CharlaineC]

I would sand it as much as posable then use white epoxy paint. let dry sand with fine sand paper repaint. Then apply new decales and spray with high gloss epoxy clear and she should last i lifetime.

[JAL3]

Thanks for the feedback. I do appreciate it.

[JAL3]

I started peeling up the loose decal material by hand but that quickly became a static, clingy mess. I then took out the #320 sandpaper and had a go. That worked a lot better but the paper clogged very quickly. Examining the results, I decided to try some #120 sandpaper. That was much more effective, did not seem to mar the foamboard and still took forever to complete.

[MarkII]

Separated at birth? :D

Mark \\.

[blackjack2564]

THe originals were put on with clear decal paper. I'm out of that and will probably print it on white paper. I'll have to cut to shape anyway.

I guess I want to find a way to 1) make sure they stick and 2) stay protected.



JAL

I do this all the time on my rockets:
After you print on white paper, Spray/coat them with fixative, only 1-2 dollars at WallMart, this will set the ink and make it water proof. I have also used clear coat [rustoleum/krylon] in lieu of fixative if non is available.

Then spray some 3M Super 77 adhesive on the back, let it tack for 30-60 sec. and spray another light coat on. Apply to rocket, they ain't coming off, even at Mach.
If you really want to make them pop, spray a light coat of white paint on back, sometimes the clear will make the paper semi-transparent, this prevents it.

It's really quite simple,after you do it a couple times, you'll have more money for motors!

[JAL3]

I do this all the time on my rockets:
After you print on white paper, Spray/coat them with fixative, only 1-2 dollars at WallMart, this will set the ink and make it water proof. I have also used clear coat [rustoleum/krylon] in lieu of fixative if non is available.

Then spray some 3M Super 77 adhesive on the back, let it tack for 30-60 sec. and spray another light coat on. Apply to rocket, they ain't coming off, even at Mach.
If you really want to make them pop, spray a light coat of white paint on back, sometimes the clear will make the paper semi-transparent, this prevents it.

It's really quite simple,after you do it a couple times, you'll have more money for motors!

I want to be sure I've got what you're saying. You mean print on regular white bond paper and not decal paper. Is that correct?

[blackjack2564]

Yes correct.

A bonus by using a clear coat is the added UV protection. At first I used just fixative and after prolonged exposure to the sun,some of the brighter colors began to fade.
Since using the clear, the problem is greatly reduced. But then I just lay my rockets out at the launch, so they sit out all day.

In the photo you can see a MAD DOG printed on regular paper, ready to cut out, and process. You can find tons of letter fonts and sizes right in Micrsoft Word, colors shadowing etc. Enough to satisfy every need. You can also Google clip art for more specific needs, and color them in word or paint too.

[JAL3]

Yes correct.

A bonus by using a clear coat is the added UV protection. At first I used just fixative and after prolonged exposure to the sun,some of the brighter colors began to fade.
Since using the clear, the problem is greatly reduced. But then I just lay my rockets out at the launch, so they sit out all day.

OK. Next Question.

What is fixative?

[blackjack2564]

Any art supply store like Micheal's and even Walmart has it. A spray, artists use ,to keep drawings like charcoal or chalk from smearing. It 'fixes' the material to the paper, so it won't smear. And is very cheap 1-2.00 a can.

If you have any clear coat it will do the same, just a light coat first,so you don't make the ink run, followed by a heavier one to seal. As I mentioned clear coats have the advantage of UV protection.

I also put a line of masking tape on my tubes, to act as a guide, when placing the lettering. Then remove when done. There is no second chance with Super 77. Once on it's stuck!

[JAL3]

Any art supply store like Micheal's and even Walmart has it. A spray, artists use ,to keep drawings like charcoal or chalk from smearing. It 'fixes' the material to the paper, so it won't smear. And is very cheap 1-2.00 a can.

If you have any clear coat it will do the same, just a light coat first,so you don't make the ink run, followed by a heavier one to seal. As I mentioned clear coats have the advantage of UV protection.

I also put a line of masking tape on my tubes, to act as a guide, when placing the lettering. Then remove when done. There is no second chance with Super 77. Once on it's stuck!

I do appreciate it. This sounds interesting and like something to pursue. I do have appr. 5.5 cans of Krylon Clear with UV protection sitting around. I also have some Super 77 used exactly once. All I have to do is find it.

[blackjack2564]

Make sure you spread out several sheets of old newspaper,under the decals, when spraying the 77. Any thing it gets on is heck to get it off! But that's a good thing, your decals WILL stay put.
Remember use light even coats, a heavy one will squish out from under the decal onto the rocket.
Good idea to try it on a plain scrap of paper first just to get a feel for it. Stick it on an old box or what ever. Gently rub over it to make the hold even.

Let us know how it works out!

[JAL3]

Make sure you spread out several sheets of old newspaper,under the decals, when spraying the 77. Any thing it gets on is heck to get it off! But that's a good thing, your decals WILL stay put.
Remember use light even coats, a heavy one will squish out from under the decal onto the rocket.
Good idea to try it on a plain scrap of paper first just to get a feel for it. Stick it on an old box or what ever. Gently rub over it to make the hold even.

Let us know how it works out!

Thanks. I think I want to give this one a try and I will continue to post build/rehab photos. This is the main reason I do so: I learn new things to try.

I want to make sure I have the 77 instructions clear.

1 spray a light coat on the back of the "decal"
2 wait for 45 secs
3 apply another light coat
4 carefully place
5 burnish as needed

Is that right?

[blackjack2564]

One last thing: before applying the glue, practice how your going to align it on the rocket. I always bow the decal slightly, and try to get the center to stick first. Then work my way out from the center, smoothing it on. This help to eliminate wrinkles.

[blackjack2564]

Yep you got it. Much easier than it seems. You'll be a pro in no time!

[JAL3]

One last thing: before applying the glue, practice how your going to align it on the rocket. I always bow the decal slightly, and try to get the center to stick first. Then work my way out from the center, smoothing it on. This help to eliminate wrinkles.

Thanks again. I'm probably going to print them up after I finish preparing for services in the morning and then take some time to trim them to fit the target surface.

I guess my concern at this point is the size of the decal. Working out from the center makes sense...if I get it right on the money to being with.

[blackjack2564]

On large ones simple:

Lay it on dry, make a tiny pencil mark on center edge of both decal and rocket top and bottom. Now you have a visual guide. I'll post a picture in a minute.

[blackjack2564]

Here ya go. had to use a box to bow, obviously I was taking the pic! Nothing to it. While your at services, have the congregation pray for help in getting them on straight! [LOL]

[blackjack2564]

I did a build thread here http://www.rocketryplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648&page=12 go to post 118 from there I did stripes and lettering decals step by step, with guides. This might help if you want to do other things yourself

[JAL3]

Here ya go. had to use a box to bow, obviously I was taking the pic! Nothing to it. While your at services, have the congregation pray for help in getting them on straight! [LOL]

Now it makes sense!!!

I was planning on getting them to pray about finding me some help to move 40 pews next Saturday and finding a 16' step ladder. I guess I can slip that in on the list too. If nobody hears from me after next Saturday, I will have drowned in a tub of bengay.

THanks for the tips.

[Peartree]

Let 'em sit on the floor for a week or two and THEN ask for volunteers.


That should help tremendously.

[JAL3]

Let 'em sit on the floor for a week or two and THEN ask for volunteers.


That should help tremendously.

I have all the volunteers I could ever ask for. The problem is that most of them, like my congregation, are over 60. RIght now, I have a policeman and a few scouts, 2 retired military and me. I also have about thirty others who have promised to show up but most of them have trouble lifting a hymnal.

[Peartree]

I don't suppose the church people would appreciate the system that always worked when I was an undergrad.

Stop off at the local university (or a local tavern) and promise pizza and beer to anyone who shows up (the beer comes out AFTER the work is done, naturally).

One of the local bar owners had a hog roast and a keg. The entire VFW post and a bunch of students built him a deck in one day...:D

[JAL3]

I don't suppose the church people would appreciate the system that always worked when I was an undergrad.

Stop off at the local university (or a local tavern) and promise pizza and beer to anyone who shows up (the beer comes out AFTER the work is done, naturally).

One of the local bar owners had a hog roast and a keg. The entire VFW post and a bunch of students built him a deck in one day...:D

I may try something like that.

[JAL3]

I had not forgotten about this one. I just couldn't remember where I had put it last. I found it bouncing around in the backseat of my car while looking for something else today.

The only real progress is that I found it, dusted it off and sprayed the upper surface blue to better hide joints between the upcomming appliques.

[JAL3]

It took me a while to get back to this one but I finally have.

I printed up 8 of my "Jaws" pictures on regular bond paper. I know the rocket only has 5 sides but I made a few extras just in case since my computer and my shop are separated by several miles. The pics were taped up in my booth and then I started to spray them down with clear acrylic.

[JAL3]

When the coating was dry, I cut out the rectangular image and test fitted it on one of the upper faces of the rocket. I then applied the 77 and pressed it into place, letting the ends wrap over the vertices. On subsequent applications, I followed the same procedure except that I did not press down the flap on the side that already had a "decal". I used a razor to trim the excess away.

[JAL3]

When all of the sheets were applied and trimmed, I set the Sky Shark up on a lazy susan in the spraybooth and applied another coat of clear.

The result looks good to me and I hope will prove more durable than the original decals.

[blackjack2564]

Well I'm glad to see you finally finished this one. Looks pretty darn good too!

Don't know if you clear coated the back side, but that will add to longevity and waterproofing if you do in the future.

Wasn't near as difficult as you first thought, was it?

Now that you've ,"been there done that", you have opened the door to making all kinds of decals yourself and saving lots of moola.

Glad to see all went well.

[Pantherjon]

Looks awesome John! Can't wait to see a launch report of you flying it on an I245G! I KNOW you want to, just shake your head yes..LOL..Serioursly, it WOULD look cool with a green flame coming out of it! :D

[JAL3]

Well I'm glad to see you finally finished this one. Looks pretty darn good too!

Don't know if you clear coated the back side, but that will add to longevity and waterproofing if you do in the future.

Wasn't near as difficult as you first thought, was it?

Now that you've ,"been there done that", you have opened the door to making all kinds of decals yourself and saving lots of moola.

Glad to see all went well.

Nope, I didn't coat the back sides. It did go fairly easily though. Now all I need to do is come up with a way to get 38mm motors and a place to fly them.

No LEUP
No regular HPR field
No local membes with either.

I'm still hoping for the future though!


Thanks for the tip.

[JAL3]

Looks awesome John! Can't wait to see a launch report of you flying it on an I245G! I KNOW you want to, just shake your head yes..LOL..Serioursly, it WOULD look cool with a green flame coming out of it! :D

Yes I do. I want to fly it on lots of other things too. I jsut have to find a way to get motors. A place to fly would be nice too.:rolleyes:

Thanks for the kind words.

[Pantherjon]

A place to fly shouldn't be that hard..As draggy as it is it wont go very high..I flew my 29mm Stealth on a G76G and MAYBE got to 200'..But, it sure did make a LOT of noise!:D Oh, and the green flame was pretty cool too!:cool:

[DAllen]

I want to see a Cinco go supersonic. Am I wrong for wanting that? :D

-Dave

[blackjack2564]

VERY, VERY wrong!

Doubtful it the whole thing will make it supersonic, but for sure, some of the PARTS might! LOL

[JAL3]

A place to fly shouldn't be that hard..As draggy as it is it wont go very high..I flew my 29mm Stealth on a G76G and MAYBE got to 200'..But, it sure did make a LOT of noise!:D Oh, and the green flame was pretty cool too!:cool:

You're right, kinda. Because of the draggy nature, I have sometimes flown it at our regular club site which is nominally no more than a midpower field. When doing so, I have made sure that those present understand my rationalizations and I don't do it with newbies around who might want to do bigger and more aerodynamic stuff there.

Motor access is still the real problem.

[JAL3]

I want to see a Cinco go supersonic. Am I wrong for wanting that? :D

-Dave

I don't think it wrong at all. If you could bring some really hot 38mm loads to San Antonio on 14 March, we might see if we can gratify this need...

[JAL3]

VERY, VERY wrong!

Doubtful it the whole thing will make it supersonic, but for sure, some of the PARTS might! LOL

Ya never know until ya try:rolleyes:

[DAllen]

I don't think it wrong at all. If you could bring some really hot 38mm loads to San Antonio on 14 March, we might see if we can gratify this need...


You? A man of the cloth want me to STEAL?! Oh wait...you mean FAST motors not stolen when you say "hot." (I am feeling a little punny today.)

Unfortunately, I do not have the monetary resources to make a flight out to Cali. Isn't there a warp 9 38mm J out there? Maybe a Pro38 6 grain V-max?

-Dave

[JAL3]

You? A man of the cloth want me to STEAL?! Oh wait...you mean FAST motors not stolen when you say "hot." (I am feeling a little punny today.)

Unfortunately, I do not have the monetary resources to make a flight out to Cali. Isn't there a warp 9 38mm J out there? Maybe a Pro38 6 grain V-max?

-Dave

My knowledge of availble loads for HPR is extremely limited. In the past I have only flown what other certified members had on had and were willing to "rent" me. I don't even have the hardware for anything except 24 and 29mm. If I can ever find a launch opportunity where I know i can be there and where I know there will be an onsite dealer, I'll buy whatever the dealer has to sell. Until then, I just mope around and wonder how the bishop, DS and church trustees would react to the idea of letting me put an explosive magazine on church property. We have 28 acres, after all...

BTW, San Antonio de Bexar: its in the heart of Texas. California? Hoss, we gotta discuss this with a tall tree and a short rope!

[DAllen]

My knowledge of availble loads for HPR is extremely limited. In the past I have only flown what other certified members had on had and were willing to "rent" me. I don't even have the hardware for anything except 24 and 29mm. If I can ever find a launch opportunity where I know i can be there and where I know there will be an onsite dealer, I'll buy whatever the dealer has to sell. Until then, I just mope around and wonder how the bishop, DS and church trustees would react to the idea of letting me put an explosive magazine on church property. We have 28 acres, after all...

BTW, San Antonio de Bexar: its in the heart of Texas. California? Hoss, we gotta discuss this with a tall tree and a short rope!


Ooops...I read San Antonio and thought San Diego or San Bernadino or I donno...:confused:...*sigh* lol


Welp...G69 skids (AMW/Pro38 single grains) are certified and I don't think require an LEUP - not 100% sure about that though. Those are loads of fun in something like a Cinco.

-DAllen

[JAL3]

Ooops...I read San Antonio and thought San Diego or San Bernadino or I donno...:confused:...*sigh* lol


Welp...G69 skids (AMW/Pro38 single grains) are certified and I don't think require an LEUP - not 100% sure about that though. Those are loads of fun in something like a Cinco.

-DAllen

You are absolved.;) Go forth and sin no more.

The idea of skidmarks makes me smile, especially when I think about our neighbors at the launch field. That building behind Ken in the photo is the regional Alamo Fireworks warehouse. June and December launches always generate a LOT of interest over there.:eek:

Actually, they are good people and our field belongs to them. Sometimes, though, they forget to tell people we have permission and the neighbors get antsy.

[JAL3]

I took down the Sky Shark today to try and fabricate a storage box for it. I noticed that about half of the newly applied sharks are coming up at the edges.

I used the 3M 77.

Any ideas?

[Peartree]

If it was me, I'd probably try thin CA.

[JAL3]

If it was me, I'd probably try thin CA.

I'll probably do something like that but I wanted to see if there are any OFFICIAL recommendations.

[Peartree]

You say that like I'd be prone to do something stoopid.


Wait.


Nevermind...:p

[JAL3]

You say that like I'd be prone to do something stoopid.


Wait.


Nevermind...:p

For some reason, that gave me a laugh I really needed today.

Thanks.

[MarkII]

CA would probably fog or crust up the pattern where it is applied. Perhaps try rubber cement, applied to the loose edge and to the material that it is to stick to. Wait about 4 or 5 minutes, and then press the two surfaces together. With rubber cement, you can brush it on just where you need it, without worrying about getting it onto areas where you don't. If you do get any excess onto adjacent areas, then wait until it cures, and then just rub it off. It will come off cleanly, without damaging the material it is being removed from.

Another option is double stick tape - the permanent kind. You can probably find some really good stuff in the scrapbooking section of a crafts store or in the crafts section of Walmart or Target.

MarkII

[blackjack2564]

It's from "dry coating" the edges. Next time make sure you use even strokes, overlapping by 1/2. Going off the edge of decal onto the drop cloth. [news paper].

It happened to me when first learning. To fix I spray a clump of 77 on some paper and use a stiff brush or suitable utensil and brush/spread it on needed area and push decal into place.

[JAL3]

It's from "dry coating" the edges. Next time make sure you use even strokes, overlapping by 1/2. Going off the edge of decal onto the drop cloth. [news paper].

It happened to me when first learning. To fix I spray a clump of 77 on some paper and use a stiff brush or suitable utensil and brush/spread it on needed area and push decal into place.

Thanks. I'm glad to have an explanation as to what went wrong. I'll get back to this one soon.

[Pantherjon]

I was just thinking(THAT is pretty scary!:eek:) about your motor 'dilemna' for this rocket...Had the 'aha' thought of a 29mm adaptor!:D..LOL..And then fly it on a G76G! Okay, will let you get back to working on it..LOL

And WOW John, up to 800 posts already!!:p

[JAL3]

I was just thinking(THAT is pretty scary!:eek:) about your motor 'dilemna' for this rocket...Had the 'aha' thought of a 29mm adaptor!:D..LOL..And then fly it on a G76G! Okay, will let you get back to working on it..LOL

And WOW John, up to 800 posts already!!:p

You make a good point about the adapter. I should do that. I'm just migged about not being able to get real HPR motors.

[tbrogan]

You could try a Loki G80, no LEUP necessary. 38-120 motor, nice white flame and some loud noise to raise a couple of eyebrows. Cool little motor from Jeff. Good luck.

T

[JAL3]

Thanks. I'm glad to have an explanation as to what went wrong. I'll get back to this one soon.

Soon took a lot longer than I thought!

As I had last observed, the 3M 77 did not hold the corners down as I ahd expected and they started to peel. That prompted my first foray into the world of rubber cement. I used it to tack down everything that seemed like it was coming up. I then put the Sky Shark in the booth to spray it with clear coat and try to hold things down.

Maybe it the judgement goes into effect, I'll actually fly it!

[Donaldsrockets]

Try an I161W, that'll get it going in a hurry.

I flew my Cinco on the I161 and the flame was MASSIVE compared to the rocket itself.:D

[JAL3]

Try an I161W, that'll get it going in a hurry.

I flew my Cinco on the I161 and the flame was MASSIVE compared to the rocket itself.:D

That sounds like fun...if only the BATF lets the clock run out!

[JAL3]

I finally got a chance to fly the Sky Shark after the previous round of repair. It was at the 2009 Cornfield Classic held at Medina Valley High School in Castroville, TX. The Alamo Rocketeers were invited to be judges and safety officers and to do a demo.

I loaded a Rocketflight H220-5SS, an OOP black powder sparky that was given to me for the exhibition. I wish I could say I had photos of the flight but I was too busy watching.:eyepop:

I also wish these motors were still available.:(

[JAL3]

After the launch, I was unable to extract the motor casing. I thought that maybe when things cooled down, it would shrink and I could pull it out.

Nothing doing. It was stuck good.

[JAL3]

I tried pushing down on the body while the motor was butted up to a hard surface. Nothing doing.

I tried persuading it with some increasingly less gentle taps with a brick bat. Finally, the motor came loose. Or I should say the whole motor mount came loose. THe motor was still firmly embedded in the tube.

[JAL3]

I wanted to get the casing back so I decided to sacrifice the tube. I uzed an exacto to run a vertical cut the length of the tube on the side opposite the motor.

[JAL3]

That sufficed to remove the tube and I was able to recover the casing.

It turns out that glue from the spent motor label was not what caused it to stick. I don't know what did.

[MarkII]

You should have tried sticking the whole rocket in the freezer (if it would fit) or in the fridge for a little while. (After sealing both ends of the motor well with plastic wrap and rubber bands so that it wouldn't stink up the compartment and your food.) The cold might have caused the motor tube to contract enough to slide out.

MarkII

[JAL3]

You should have tried sticking the whole rocket in the freezer (if it would fit) or in the fridge for a little while. (After sealing both ends of the motor well with plastic wrap and rubber bands so that it wouldn't stink up the compartment and your food.) The cold might have caused the motor tube to contract enough to slide out.

MarkII

I would think that doing that would shrink the rocket and the motor at the same rate.

Besides, I can just picture what would happen if SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED found one of my rockets in the freezer.:bangpan::bangpan:

"But honey, how can you smell the BP with all that Kimchee in there...":rolleyes:

:dark:

I would become, as we say in the business, DEAD!

[JAL3]

I used the old motor tube to measure off the correct distance on a piece of 38mm tubing.

[JAL3]

I then used masking tape to make a cutting guide on the tube. A mandrel was inserted and a razor knife drawn around the circumference a few times until the cut was all the way through.

[JAL3]

I mixed some 15 minute epoxy and slathered it on the forward end of the motor tube with a brush after it had already been seated in the aft end of the Cinco. I then pushed it through the forward hole and got it seated. The brush was used to brush the remaining epoxy over the joints at the forward and aft ends.

[JAL3]

When the epoxy had set, I brushed on some red paint on the aft end of the motor tube. It was not an exact match for the extant paint but the hard use had already produced a dappled effect. I figured it would blend after a flight or two.

[JAL3]

I decided to try out the Sky Shark today after replacing the motor tube. I had no 38mm motors so I decided to try it with an adapter on a 29mm G38-4. I loaded it up, put it on the pad and waited.

[JAL3]

When my turn came, I expected the Blackjack motor to take a little while to decide what to do so I was surprised when it immediately leapt off the pad.

[JAL3]

It climbed the way it was supposed to leaving that thick black trail I like to watch.

[JAL3]

When the thrust gave out, it quickly slowed, inverted and began aerobraking back to earth.

[JAL3]

It landed with no harm done and ready to fly again.

[JAL3]

While moving my rocket stuff from the old place to the new, I found that the paper skins on my Sky Shark were peeling up at the edges. I decided that I wanted to nip this problem in the bud.

[JAL3]

This time I used white glue smeared onto the back of the paper with a toothpick. The edges were then held down with masking tape.

[JAL3]

When the tape came up I noticed a great improvement but then saw on the edge where the skin was also coming up.

[JAL3]

I repeated the same gluing and taping on the newly discovered area.

[JAL3]

A day later I peeled the tape and, being satisfied, used a foam brush to apply 2 coats of future. Its ready for its next outing.