I want to get started in mmx

[genzod]

I built a bunch of regular rockets, I would like to get started in mmx, what's a good kit , I was thinking quest super value kit , u get 6 rockets , launch, ect ? Or any other advice ? Kits ect ??

[MarkII]

The Super Value Set is a great place to start. Then check out these sources for kits:

http://www.fliskits.com/products/rocketkits/micromaxx/mmx_kits.htm
http://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/category.cfm?Category=175 (micro scale kits) and http://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=669&Category=177
http://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/model_rocket.php (the 9 kits that all begin with "Micro")

[gpoehlein]

Buy the Super Value Set for the motors and the launcher with adapter. The RTF rockets in that set are pretty much worthless (we don't call them Little Plastic Bricks for no reason). Fliskits has some really nice mmx kits and parts (while ordering, I'd order some extra T2+, which is minimum diameter tube for MMX motors and some centering rings - especially T2+ to T5). I haven't tried the ASP or Leading Edge kits. But if you get some motor tube and T2+ to T5 centering rings, you can also turn the Estes Quark and 220 Swift into respectable MMX models. Easiest to add a bit of string (or Kevlar thread) for a shock cord and just make them nose blow recovery - you can secure the thread in the tip of the nose cone with a couple drops of epoxy.

[MarkII]

Buy the Super Value Set for the motors and the launcher with adapter. The RTF rockets in that set are pretty much worthless (we don't call them Little Plastic Bricks for no reason). Fliskits has some really nice mmx kits and parts (while ordering, I'd order some extra T2+, which is minimum diameter tube for MMX motors and some centering rings - especially T2+ to T5). I haven't tried the ASP or Leading Edge kits. But if you get some motor tube and T2+ to T5 centering rings, you can also turn the Estes Quark and 220 Swift into respectable MMX models. Easiest to add a bit of string (or Kevlar thread) for a shock cord and just make them nose blow recovery - you can secure the thread in the tip of the nose cone with a couple drops of epoxy.To be clear, "T2+," "T5," etc. are Balsa Machining Service (BMS) sizes. FlisKits sells 6mm motor tubing as "BT-2.5." If you look for something called T2+ on the FlisKits site, you'll be looking for a looooonnnnnggggg time. ASP calls the same tubing "T-MM."

[Micromeister]

NOT really Mark! BMS buys or bought, it's Tubing from Totally Tubular. T2 to T-xxx are their tube size designations.

T2+ is the universal minimum diameter body tube size originally coined by Totally Tubular to fit the then (early 2000) brand new 6mm MicroMaxx motors. Fliskits didn't exist or was just getting started, BMS wasn't offering anything other then balsa turning, Quest wasn't making craft bodytubes for the motor they'd recently invented and NO ONE on the planet had a clue as to what size craft tubes would be needed to produce REAL "you Build it" Micro models.

Together with Totally tubulars Owner, on request and a minimum 200- 34" tube order, we decided to add a tube size between the then nearly 1/4" T2 tubes actually .246" OD. and T3 (.375") tubes to fit micro motors .281" OD. adding the Plus sign T2+ designation. For almost 8 years these were the only Micro motor size tubes around. As such IMHO it deserves to be reconized as the standard designation T2+. Not sure why Fliskits, and ASP decided to rename the minimum diameter body size for their micro max lines.. since at least for a little while they were buying there tubing from Totally Tublar as well. I believe it's sort of like the Difference between Estes and Centuri Body tube sizing....Different simply to confuse the issue..... We just have to understand what we're looking for.
Micro Maxx minimum diameter tubing that is .281" OD. .255" ID .013" wall:)

As a famous man once said "And That's the rest of the story" LOL!!!!.

Ps: There is also a T2++ .316"OD. .290" ID .013" wall tube between T2+ & T3 if you need a Slide tube for micro gliders and such;)

[Micromeister]

I built a bunch of regular rockets, I would like to get started in mmx, what's a good kit , I was thinking quest super value kit , u get 6 rockets , launch, ect ? Or any other advice ? Kits ect ??

As Mark and Greg have mentioned just about any of Fliskits, Asp, or leading edge kits are first rate.

You might also want to check out Micro Classics by e-mail, QCR for a few pretty impressive competition kits. and Quest Aerospace has recently started selling a very limited line of micro maxx parts (Different sized again LOL) for the LPB Motor line they invented:)

By all means don't forget to come join us Maxxer's over on the Micro Maxx rockets yahoo group as well! Loads of info, plans and pictures to spark your imagination there.

[jflis]

FlisKits went with the BT-*** nomenclature as that matched the other body tube sizes we sell. When you get to the boundry tubes (BT-5/BT-20) we certainly didn't want to have a BT-5 in one area of the site and a T-5 in another (now THAT would be confusing).

Also, we never purchased tubing from Totally Tubular and, frankly, had no real knowledge of their numbering schema nor what lead to it...

[scoop55]

The Super Value Set is a great place to start. Then check out these sources for kits:

http://www.fliskits.com/products/rocketkits/micromaxx/mmx_kits.htm
http://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/category.cfm?Category=175 (micro scale kits) and http://www.asp-rocketry.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=669&Category=177
http://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/model_rocket.php (the 9 kits that all begin with "Micro")I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??

[MarkII]

I too think I would like to jump into the world of the mighty Micro Maxx. I've built a few A-size rockets (Viking Research, Swift, Quark, Star Trooper, etc.) from Estes, but am looking to go smaller! Quick question: can I launch the Micromaxx engines with the standard launcher from Estes, the same one I've used for A through E engines, or do I need to use the one from the Super Value set??Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.

[Tronman]

I picked up one of these and it fits my PortaPad:

http://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/product_other.php?pid=10

Only thing is the lugs on the plastic bricks have to be drilled out a little. No problem with the kit lugs though.

[scoop55]

Yes; you just need to make a simple launch rod adapter. (MicroMaxx launch rods are only 0.049" in diameter.) MicroMaxx motors don't come with plugs to hold the igniter in place. If you look at the nozzle on one, you'll see why. There are a few different ways to retain it, and all are simple to do. I use the well-known "toothpick method" myself.Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.

Thanks again! Now off to order a few of these bad-boys......

[scoop55]

I picked up one of these and it fits my PortaPad:

http://www.leadingedgerocketry.com/product_other.php?pid=10

Only thing is the lugs on the plastic bricks have to be drilled out a little. No problem with the kit lugs though.Thanks, I'm on it.:pc:

[Micromeister]

Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.

Thanks again! Now off to order a few of these bad-boys......

Don't "PUSH" it in at all!
If you must use the toothpick method it's only ment to HOLD the igniter in by the weight of the MODEL holding it in. DO NOT PUSH IT into the nozzle or you MAY end up with a motor that looks like this and a MODEL IN MANY MANY pieces. The Toothpick method has been the only way I've seen to cause a CATO with MMX motors to date. IF you must use the method just lightly set the model onto the pick against the blast deflector just tight enought to hold the igniter in place NOTHING else;)

[scoop55]

Don't "PUSH" it in at all!
If you must use the toothpick method it's only ment to HOLD the igniter in by the weight of the MODEL holding it in. DO NOT PUSH IT into the nozzle or you MAY end up with a motor that looks like this and a MODEL IN MANY MANY pieces. The Toothpick method has been the only way I've seen to cause a CATO with MMX motors to date. IF you must use the method just lightly set the model onto the pick against the blast deflector just tight enought to hold the igniter in place NOTHING else;)Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)

[Micromeister]

Gotcha. Would a small amount of tape be an alternate method? (haven't asctually seen the motors/ignitors yet to see if theres enough lead length to bend them up over the motor and tape....)

The Old Wadding ball and tape method is the way I've been pre-launch prepping both MMX-I and MMX-II motors for over a decade.

I'm using my own Bare Nichrome 30ga. .0100" Nichrome but also use the same method with Q2's both pyrogen coated and bare. it's just a little easier not having to work around the little glass bead. I generally hold the Q2 by the tip and spread the leads a bit between the bridge wire and glass bead. Just enough to allow a tiny piece of FP wadding to be placed between the leads.

It's a lot easier at home, on a hard, stable table rather then fighting wind and attention while trying to watch the next flight going off while readying motors.
Some haven't been able to get the hang of it..which is fine... In Testing: Stuffing a tiny piece of wadding in against the nichrome igniter and taping it with 1/8" masking tape as hard as I possibly could has not to date created any motor problem at all, Generally packing the wadding ball just enough to seat the ignitor firmly is all that's needed than add a little piece of tape. I've left motors pre-ignitored for months, which allows motors to be ready to pop into the model and on the pad in a jiffy while being able to support the model by the igniter leads in the micro clips alone.

Both methods appear to work fine...whichever helps you most to simplify the pre-launch preperation so try both methods...can't hurt...just do push the toothpick;)

[JPVegh]

I've been using toothpicks for years and have never had any issues. My MMX motor box always has at least as many toothpicks as motors in it which is more than enough. If you break the tooth picks in half you get two launches from each one. Works fine for MMX I and MMX II motors though I clip the pointy end back a little for MMX II motors.

[scoop55]

The Old Wadding ball and tape method is the way I've been pre-launch prepping both MMX-I and MMX-II motors for over a decade.

I'm using my own Bare Nichrome 30ga. .0100" Nichrome but also use the same method with Q2's both pyrogen coated and bare. it's just a little easier not having to work around the little glass bead. I generally hold the Q2 by the tip and spread the leads a bit between the bridge wire and glass bead. Just enough to allow a tiny piece of FP wadding to be placed between the leads.

It's a lot easier at home, on a hard, stable table rather then fighting wind and attention while trying to watch the next flight going off while readying motors.
Some haven't been able to get the hang of it..which is fine... In Testing: Stuffing a tiny piece of wadding in against the nichrome igniter and taping it with 1/8" masking tape as hard as I possibly could has not to date created any motor problem at all, Generally packing the wadding ball just enough to seat the ignitor firmly is all that's needed than add a little piece of tape. I've left motors pre-ignitored for months, which allows motors to be ready to pop into the model and on the pad in a jiffy while being able to support the model by the igniter leads in the micro clips alone.

Both methods appear to work fine...whichever helps you most to simplify the pre-launch preperation so try both methods...can't hurt...just do push the toothpick;)Cool technique! I like the idea of pre-setting them up prior to launch time.

Thanks for the pix too, btw.

[hcmbanjo]

To Genzod and Scoop 55,
You can use your standard 1/8" diameter rod and launcher with this MicroMaxx lug adapter.

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/12/micromaxx-launch-rod-standoff-tip.html

Brian Coyle, our local NAR section president, showed me this when I first showed interest in flying some MicroMaxx rockets.
It's very simple to make from a standard 1/8" lug, empty 18mm casing, tape and a .049" diameter MMX rod.
You could probably pick up a usable (cheaper) rod at some hobby stores.

[scoop55]

To Genzod and Scoop 55,
You can use your standard 1/8" diameter rod and launcher with this MicroMaxx lug adapter.

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2010/12/micromaxx-launch-rod-standoff-tip.html

Brian Coyle, our local NAR section president, showed me this when I first showed interest in flying some MicroMaxx rockets.
It's very simple to make from a standard 1/8" lug, empty 18mm casing, tape and a .049" diameter MMX rod.
You could probably pick up a usable (cheaper) rod at some hobby stores.Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?

[Micromeister]

Nice idea. I guess with the example rocket (with wider nosecone)you show you couldn't do this, but, what would prevent me from just gluing on a 1/8 lug to the MMX instead of using the .049 lug supplied?

You certainly could but it'd look awful funny...in some cases the lugs would be almost as large as the model body LOL!!!!

There are as many ways to Add-on .049" Steel or Stainless Steel music wire micro launch rods as there are people building and flying Micros these days.

Some like quick and easy, others want something a little more permanent or durable.
I built a bunch of these Slip-on .190" aluminum adaptors for our club. and a sister club in Richmond, VA. While they look "involved" they are just a slab of Alum with a thumb screw, 9/64" slide-on hole and z-Bent .049" Stainless Music wire Micro rods. They are designed to rotate out of the way so the launcher can be used for standard size models without having to remove the Micro launcher.
Just another way to get the most Micro's off at Club launches.

[scoop55]

You certainly could but it'd look awful funny...in some cases the lugs would be almost as large as the model body LOL!!!!


:eek: Yeah, guess I'm not really visualizing the size of these. I'll stick with the supplied lugs.....

[Mr. Larry]

You really don't want to get into MMX. It is totally addicting. If you want the rest of your life to continue to be normal, stay away before it's too late. There is a growing cult starting to grow with Micromeister and Jim Flis as our leaders. HELP!

Larry in Illinois

[scoop55]

DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......

[scoop55]

You really don't want to get into MMX. It is totally addicting. If you want the rest of your life to continue to be normal, stay away before it's too late. There is a growing cult starting to grow with Micromeister and Jim Flis as our leaders. HELP!

Larry in Illinois

LOL...too late!

[scoop55]

DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......
Added 3 more from fiskits:

Big Honkin Rocket
Teeny Triskelion
Crayon - green

I think I'm set for a while.

[MarkII]

Cool, thanks!! I actually have 2 launch pads, one where the rod cannot be removed, and the other they can. I'll use the second, and buy a smaller rod.

By toothpick method I assume you mean just pushing up a toothpick into the motor after the fuse is in. Sounds easy enough.Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. The toothpick is meant to act more as a support for the igniter when the rocket is turned upright and placed on the launch rod. It does double-duty as a stand-off at that point, too. Don't try to use it as an actual plug, though, like you would with, say, an Estes igniter plug. It needs to have a little bit of friction with the nozzle's exit hole to stay put and keep the igniter in place, but not much. Bad things can happen later on if you use too much force when you insert the toothpick. Use just enough pressure to keep it in place. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.

As discussed above, there are other effective methods for retaining the igniter in the motor nozzle. Try different methods so that you can have some basis for comparison and then choose the one that works best for you.

[scoop55]

Yes, but be gentle and only put it in until it just stays in place. You don't want to jam it in there. MicroMaxx II motors have tiny clay nozzles that can be damaged if you try to force something into them. I have never had a cato or any other adverse event as a result of using toothpicks as igniter holders.

Thanks for the info, Mark. New around here and afraid to ask, I just looked up what CATO means, and yes, I think that happened to me once during a launch. I was with the rocket club a few months back, so obviously using their launch pads, which had a rail setup with 5 rods in a row. I had Mean Machine on it with an E9. It was her first launch. My son pressed the button and that sucker just sat there and blew a flame out for a few seconds.....didn't move. I initially thougth somehow the retaining hook got caught on something preventing it from taking off. Then some guy said "hey kids, go check out what that engine did to the launch pad". Melted a nickel-size hole in the aluminum blast shield and burned the ignitor wires underneath. I didn't even want to go and retrieve the rocket, and claim it was mine! Back at my truck, and old timer came over, looked at the engine, and said I probably had a defective engine with a damaged nozzle. Probably my fault though, being too careless with the plug. I learned my lesson, and am still reminded of it every time we set up for launches....:blush:

[jflis]

Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...

[scoop55]

Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...Yep, I plan on building a similar one. Just got my teenie launch rod in the mail yesterday.

[Peartree]

Here is a method of launch pad that I use all the time. Simple and low cost and it fits in my range box...

I am making one of these for NARAM (just in case). It's nearly finished. I will mix up some epoxy and install the rod this afternoon after work.

[Rocket86]

I just got a Teeny Triskelion, my/our first MMX. My daughter is fascinated by the MMX rockets, so off we go. It should be a lot of fun. :)

[Micromeister]

I just got a Teeny Triskelion, my/our first MMX. My daughter is fascinated by the MMX rockets, so off we go. It should be a lot of fun. :)

Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.

[Tronman]

Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.

How did you paint yours? Mine is sitting on a shelf, primed and ready for paint, but it seems that masking and rattle cans would be difficult to get a paint job as clean and sharp as yours.

[Micromeister]

How did you paint yours? Mine is sitting on a shelf, primed and ready for paint, but it seems that masking and rattle cans would be difficult to get a paint job as clean and sharp as yours.

Tronman:
Mine was done with rattlecan paints..actually a mix of Old Forumla Krylon sun yellow, Duplicolor True Blue and ColorWorks Red over Walmart Cheapy Auto Grey primer.
Sorry I didn't think to take a few more photos during the painting process on either the Teeny or full size Triskelion:(

Because Yellow is so transluscent it must be applied by timing (constant pass speed with a single pass/1/4turn process.) that is starting and stopping well beyond the model the pass speed is maintained as closely as possible, while Making a single Pass then turning the model 1/4 turn before applying the next pass, continuing this for two complete revolutions. Pay NO attention to the blotchy look of the surface at this point. Allow the paint to tack-up for 5 minutes then repeat the process as closely to the same speed and pass turning as before. repeat this about 3 times to get a consistant color over the entire model. Don't worry about the fin tip plates as they will be painted red later. do pay attention to both side of the fins as they do remain yellow.

Once your satisfied with the Yellow coverage set the model aside for a day or until the sniff test tells you it is completely dry. Took almost a week in my Humidity at the time. If you base coated with white auto primer it is a little easier to get a "brighter" yellow. I just went with the grey primer which I think turned out fine.

With the Yellow completely Dry. I removed the Nosecone placing it in a ziplok baggie for safekeeping. Inserted a dowel with a wrap of masking tape to seal off the inside and a spent MMX motor in the motor tube. I'll be spraying the body in the up-side-down position. Used 3m Fineline green low tac tape at the fin/body and fin/tiplet seams with blue painters tape filler over the finished yellow fins, then sealed all exposed edges with Testors Dull coat to ensure no wicking under the taped edges.

Allowed the Dull coat to dry, then sprayed the entire body tube with True blue taking only a single wet coat to get a great finish. Again don't concern yourself much with the fin-tip plates underside, but do ensure they get an even exposed outer surface coat.

set the model aside again to completely dry without removing the masking. When the blue is dry tape off the body covering with plastic bag or what have you held in place with blue painters tape. make sure your seals are tight.

last a coat or two with high gloss red. When dry carefully remove the body wrap tape & plastic then remove the fin wrapping tape.

You may need to use a little finessit-II on the paint dams at the fin/body joints.
I cheated just a little in that I Printed decals to match the Blue body color and created the Teeny Triskelion name decal on my Alps.

Last step was to replace the provided toothpic spikes with custom cut Styrene half rounds and hand paint the exposed surfaces white.

After all decals and detail paint dried the model was swabbed down with a coat of future.

[scoop55]

Teeny Triskelion is a great choice and wonderful performing Micro Fliskit.
It's got to be one of my favorite "kit" models, I fly it just about every time I go out these days.

It's a fun build, just take your time with the finishing.Seriously, excellent paint job there. I'll need to practice alot of patience when I start finishing mine. 5 of the 8 I ordered have arrived....waiting for the last few before I get rolling.

[Tronman]

Seriously, excellent paint job there. I'll need to practice alot of patience when I start finishing mine. 5 of the 8 I ordered have arrived....waiting for the last few before I get rolling.

I'll say. An awesome job!

[scoop55]

DONE! Just ordered the following:

ASP
Micro Hawk
Micro RP-3
Micro Corporal
12 engines

Leading Edge
Micro MAX
Micro Bertha
launch rod

Can't wait to line up the last two with my Der Red and Big/Baby Bertha's!!


Gunna check out fliskits next......Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)

[MarkII]

Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)Andy is a first-class guy who produces first-class kits and components.

[Micromeister]

Was just checking out the order I recieved from asp-rocketry, and I noticed that they sent me an extra rocket that I didn't order ("That Rocket Tube"), a tube finned rocket! The writing on the package says "N/C Thanks!" Now THATS what I call good customer service! Kudos to ASP. Far as I'm concerned, a nice gesture like that just earned them additional business from me. :)

Yeap I'll second Marks post!
Andy is one of the class acts in the Mod-Roc kit business. Always attentive, prompt and top notch materials.

[scoop55]

Yeap I'll second Marks post!
Andy is one of the class acts in the Mod-Roc kit business. Always attentive, prompt and top notch materials.Meanwhile....I'm still waiting for my last 3 MMX from fliskits. Been over a week and a half. Wonder if they don't have them pre-kitted or something. Maybe I'm just too impatient......

[Mr. Larry]

Have you received an e-mail form Jim that it has been shipped?

[jflis]

Meanwhile....I'm still waiting for my last 3 MMX from fliskits. Been over a week and a half. Wonder if they don't have them pre-kitted or something. Maybe I'm just too impatient......

Did your order include motors? If so they shipped parcel post which can take up to 10 business days... Keep me posted and if it didn't include motors contact me via email cuz it shouldn't have taken more than a couple of days.

Also, Mr. Larry raises a good point. Did you get an email from me telling you that they shipped? If not there may be an order problem at this end.

Keep me posted and we'll get you all set!

jim

[scoop55]

Did your order include motors? If so they shipped parcel post which can take up to 10 business days... Keep me posted and if it didn't include motors contact me via email cuz it shouldn't have taken more than a couple of days.

Also, Mr. Larry raises a good point. Did you get an email from me telling you that they shipped? If not there may be an order problem at this end.

Keep me posted and we'll get you all set!

jimNo motors, just 3 rockets. But, I just noticed just now on your web page a statement: "FlisKits guarantees delivery of your order in 2-4 weeks upon receipt of your order with full payment (NOTE: As we progress and become more experienced, this ship time will be reduced). "

I missed that, so no worries!

Thanks, Jim!

[jflis]

No motors, just 3 rockets. But, I just noticed just now on your web page a statement: "FlisKits guarantees delivery of your order in 2-4 weeks upon receipt of your order with full payment (NOTE: As we progress and become more experienced, this ship time will be reduced). "

I missed that, so no worries!

Thanks, Jim!

naw.... That's just protection for us should you order something not in stock and we have to order parts... Assuming you got a note that your order has shipped then you should have gotten it in a couple of days. If you DIDN'T get such a note drop me a quick email with details about the order and I will see what happened.

IMPORTANT! do this quickly as we shut down our shipping department in a few hours as we prepare for NARAM...

I look forward to hearing from you!
jim

[Launch Daddy]

... I just looked up what CATO means, and yes, I think that happened to me once during a launch.... My son pressed the button and that sucker just sat there and blew a flame out for a few seconds.....didn't move.... Back at my truck, and old timer came over, looked at the engine, and said I probably had a defective engine with a damaged nozzle. Probably my fault though, being too careless with the plug. And just as likely to not have been your fault. In the 1000's-per-run production of these motors, odds are that a dud will get shipped. Estes is very good about standing behind their products, and will do what they can to make you a happy, repeat customer. They can be reached via: http://www.estesrockets.com/contact-us

Do you still have the motor in question? If so, a pic of the "engine" code , and one of the nozzle can get you warranty service. My daughter had the same happen with a Big Bertha at a launch with the Dallas club, and we received a pack of C6 motors AND a Big Bertha kit (her's did have minimal fin damage from the uncontrolled burn of a disappearing nozzle). Three days and in our mailbox made a big impression on both of us. Also, a report to NAR could help the hobby stay on track: http://www.nar.org/NARmessform.html

Back to the regularly scheduled MMX discussion. These guys all have great advice, and I highly encourage you to check out the MMX Yahoo Group mentioned by the Micromeister. There is a wealth of info there, and John McCoy is like the Black Powder Priest of the MMX altar. He has numerous files of rocket designs and support equipment offered up in the archives there. Lots of good tips and tricks.

A Cheap And Dirty (CHAD) MMX pad can be made by attaching a 3/4" - 1" strip of 1"x4" to the top-side at the end of a 5" or 6" piece of 1"x4". Drill a hole down through both pieces to allow it to slide down on a standard launch rod. Using the rod you've purchased, or .049" music wire (as John said), put a Z bend in one end of it, and drill a hole to accept it, up on the shelf you made with the strip of the 1"x4". About 1/3 of a spent 18mm motor casing, with slots cut on opposite sides, will hold the ignitor upright (with the leads passing through the slots) and allow the MMX rocket to sit down on top of it. This is nowhere near as elegant as the designs that John has, but it will work until you become a machinist.

These little guys are indeed addicting! At a recent contest in San Antonio with the Alamo Rocketeers, I flew in 1/8A Streamer Duration. This is a contest that you can have with yourself. Build the bird, figure out how to stuff a streamer into it (and then let me know!), launch it, and time the duration of its flight. Newbie me has a 3rd place ribbon to show for it, and a need to burn more powder. Good stuff!

Neither a machinist, nor a photographer,
Hal

[scoop55]

naw.... That's just protection for us should you order something not in stock and we have to order parts... Assuming you got a note that your order has shipped then you should have gotten it in a couple of days. If you DIDN'T get such a note drop me a quick email with details about the order and I will see what happened.

IMPORTANT! do this quickly as we shut down our shipping department in a few hours as we prepare for NARAM...

I look forward to hearing from you!
jimSorry, Jim, I didn't read this reply until this morning, so It looks like I'm outside the window. The only Email I received was one from Paypal the day after the order, July 7, copied below, no confirmation of shipping or anything. If they were shipped, I guess they could have accidentally been delivered to the wrong address......maybe a neighbor, GRRRRRR :mad:. I'll have to keep my eyes open for any suspicious launches of ultra small rockets on our cul-de-sac, LOL.



Jul 6, 2011 18:28:29 PDT
Transaction ID: 0NF33170VC0329714

Hello Steven -----,

You sent a payment of $30.45 USD to FlisKits, Incorporated (sales@fliskits.com)

It may take a few moments for this transaction to appear in your account.
________________________________________
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Shipping address - confirmed
Steven ------
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(San Diego, CA 92131)
United States Shipping details
Air Service
Description Unit price Qty Amount
MTTM Big Honkin Rocket
Item# MX015 $10.95 USD 1 $10.95 USD
MTTM Teeny Triskelion
Item# MX012 $6.95 USD 1 $6.95 USD
MTTM Crayon - Forest Green
Item# MX007FG $6.65 USD 1 $6.65 USD
Subtotal $24.55 USD
Shipping and handling $5.90 USD
Total $30.45 USD
Payment $30.45 USD
Payment sent to sales@fliskits.com

[jflis]

Could you please send this to me in an email? I will get right on this as soon as we get back (may even be able to tackle this from the hotel this week.)

jim

[scoop55]

Could you please send this to me in an email? I will get right on this as soon as we get back (may even be able to tackle this from the hotel this week.)

jimWill do, Jim. I'll send it to the address listed on your fliskits webpage.

Thanks again, and sorry to be a bother.

[jflis]

Will do, Jim. I'll send it to the address listed on your fliskits webpage.

Thanks again, and sorry to be a bother.

Got your email and, I assure you, no bother! :)

[JPVegh]

And just as likely to not have been your fault. In the 1000's-per-run production of these motors, odds are that a dud will get shipped. Estes is very good about standing behind their products, and will do what they can to make you a happy, repeat customer. They can be reached via: http://www.estesrockets.com/contact-us

Do you still have the motor in question? If so, a pic of the "engine" code , and one of the nozzle can get you warranty service. My daughter had the same happen with a Big Bertha at a launch with the Dallas club, and we received a pack of C6 motors AND a Big Bertha kit (her's did have minimal fin damage from the uncontrolled burn of a disappearing nozzle). Three days and in our mailbox made a big impression on both of us. Also, a report to NAR could help the hobby stay on track: http://www.nar.org/NARmessform.html

Back to the regularly scheduled MMX discussion. These guys all have great advice, and I highly encourage you to check out the MMX Yahoo Group mentioned by the Micromeister. There is a wealth of info there, and John McCoy is like the Black Powder Priest of the MMX altar. He has numerous files of rocket designs and support equipment offered up in the archives there. Lots of good tips and tricks.

A Cheap And Dirty (CHAD) MMX pad can be made by attaching a 3/4" - 1" strip of 1"x4" to the top-side at the end of a 5" or 6" piece of 1"x4". Drill a hole down through both pieces to allow it to slide down on a standard launch rod. Using the rod you've purchased, or .049" music wire (as John said), put a Z bend in one end of it, and drill a hole to accept it, up on the shelf you made with the strip of the 1"x4". About 1/3 of a spent 18mm motor casing, with slots cut on opposite sides, will hold the ignitor upright (with the leads passing through the slots) and allow the MMX rocket to sit down on top of it. This is nowhere near as elegant as the designs that John has, but it will work until you become a machinist.

These little guys are indeed addicting! At a recent contest in San Antonio with the Alamo Rocketeers, I flew in 1/8A Streamer Duration. This is a contest that you can have with yourself. Build the bird, figure out how to stuff a streamer into it (and then let me know!), launch it, and time the duration of its flight. Newbie me has a 3rd place ribbon to show for it, and a need to burn more powder. Good stuff!

Neither a machinist, nor a photographer,
Hal

Nice looking pad Hal! You really did well in the MMX SD contest. It was a little bit frustrating for me to take second place in an event that I prepared so long and hard for. I take some consolation in the fact that the fella who beat me built his rocket from one of my kits.:wink: I would like to see more MMX events at our contests but it seems that the interest among the group isn't quite there. As it stands now I worry about the future of any more contests at all for the Alamo Rocketeers. If we get another chance speak up for a MMX event! We micro enthusiasts need to push the agenda.

Sorry for the thread drift.

[Micromeister]

Nice looking pad Hal! You really did well in the MMX SD contest. It was a little bit frustrating for me to take second place in an event that I prepared so long and hard for. I take some consolation in the fact that the fella who beat me built his rocket from one of my kits.:wink: I would like to see more MMX events at our contests but it seems that the interest among the group isn't quite there. As it stands now I worry about the future of any more contests at all for the Alamo Rocketeers. If we get another chance speak up for a MMX event! We micro enthusiasts need to push the agenda.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Nifty MMX Pad Hal!
Just so you are aware.....it is not necessary to be a Machinist to build most of my pad and other Ground support designs.. just have access to scrap Aluminum, a drill or drill press and some threading taps.
One of the ever present things I'm reminded of by the better 2/3rds is to make everything Coffee Table constructable. To that I try very hard to keep materials and construction methods as basic as I can, while striving to make "LONG LASTING" ground support equipment. I'm sure you Pad will do you well for a good amount of time.

JPV:
You shouldn't be disappointed with a place or show in any PD or SD event. There is a LUCK factor involved with these type events that can't be overcome by any amount of practice or procedure. Thermal activity and field conditions will Always play an important part with such events.
Yet another reason i'm not all that into contest flying anymore.... Way to many other things to concern ourselves with that actually are Skill oriented;)
besides whatever outcome on the contest field, that and a 1.50 may buy you a cup of coffee. Getting the model(s) to work...As designed every time is a much bigger accomplishiment:) Hope these thoughts help a bit.

[MarkII]

Launch Daddy, I like the method you came up with for holding the Q2 igniter. It's simple, inexpensive (basically, free) and it takes advantage of the stiffness of the wire leads of the igniter. I think that the MMX Q2 igniter was specifically designed to be used like that, with it supporting itself on its stiff legs and the rocket being lowered into the bridge wire loop. That was part of the concept of the original QMX igniters. MicroMaxx motors are so small, and their nozzles are so minuscule, that the plan was to install and connect the igniter on the pad underneath the rocket, and then lowering the exposed nozzle opening down onto the bridge wire loop when the rocket was lowered onto the launch rod. No need for a conventional igniter plug, because the igniter wasn't going anywhere once it was installed. One of the problems with the QMX igniters was that the loop was often a bit too wide, which prevented it from going all the way into the nozzle and contacting the propellant. The MMX Q2's have a much narrower loop, which is made possible by having the two leads held apart at a fixed distance by the glass bead. I was soured on the whole concept due to my frustration with the Silo launch pad, so I went with the conventional practice of inserting the igniter into the motor before putting the rocket onto the pad. But I'm interested in your holder; it seems like something that will be easy enough to create that it will induce me to once again experiment with the "MMX method" of insertion with the Q2s.