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blackjack2564
23rd June 2010, 01:20 AM
Well they are here!

Some boxes came in while Tim was at the Tire store and I found some interesting items.

So for your viewing pleasure.........

The Darkstar 4 single deploy [54mm motor mount] and the Extreme Darkstar 4inch [75mm motor mount]

Darkstar 4 single has 1/8 g-10 fins and the DD has 3/16 fins.

Both are the G-12 spiral wound tubes and the Extreme has the 52inch fincan for super long motors!

Both come with Von Karmen nose cones.

Rocketman248
23rd June 2010, 01:24 AM
Yup. That just made the top of the "must buy" list.

blackjack2564
23rd June 2010, 01:30 AM
The lucky few that order/buy them now get the Von Karmen with the metal tip.[Due to a slip up] After that they will be the standard fiberglass.

The parts below for the DD.

We will be at Nerrf with them for sale.

Special pricing will be available for those lucky enough to be attending.

Under 200.00 or maybe under 150.00 or ???? for the single 54mm

Under 350 or maybe under ??? for the DD 75mm

I started the build but must now leave for Nerrf.

More upon return with the first build of the DARKSTAR.

IT"S finally here as you all requested from the Wildman!


And man it's a beauty!!!!

SSenesy
23rd June 2010, 01:37 AM
Jim;

Doing a build article before the kit is ready is just cruel :D

Could I reserve a DD version for NERRF? I'll stop by on Friday.

Thanks!

gkieley
28th June 2010, 02:52 AM
Jim. picked that bad boy up at NERRF... Tim is going to ship it out next week..... can't wait. Thanks for your help in getting the Patriot out of the tree on Saturday... hope to get out to MidWest Power....

blackjack2564
30th June 2010, 03:23 AM
I'm baaacckk..........

after over 5500 miles, time to finish this build [so I can fly it!]

First the usual stuff for past readers of my builds....


Use the fin slots for marking the 3 lines needed for shear pins on the nose cone.

Same for marking the coupler for rivets [to attach the payload later]

Transfer marks into full lines by using drawer or favorite straight edge.

Drill holes for injecting internal fillets now .

Mark where Cr's located [or remember] for sanding internally where they will be glued.

Should mention the usual sand to fit CR's on to MM and into airframe.
Also all fins sanded from root edge up 1 in.

blackjack2564
30th June 2010, 03:38 AM
By the way Single deploy 54mm is only 139.00!

Can't remember what the DD 75mm is. I'll ask Tim tomorrow.

Now that I'm done using the fin slots as a marking guide, we can build the fincan!

Now sand all internal contact areas where the centering rings will be glued.

I use a PVC pipe with sandpaper just taped to the end, overhanging slightly.

not shown but you guys know.....it's a split fin, so sand where the CR goes on front of top slot!

blackjack2564
30th June 2010, 03:40 AM
Jim. picked that bad boy up at NERRF... Tim is going to ship it out next week..... can't wait. Thanks for your help in getting the Patriot out of the tree on Saturday... hope to get out to MidWest Power....

I really can't say it was fun.....[the getting it out part] but it was nice "hanging" out with you and the Patriot! LOL. Your Welcome. Come to Midwest POWER!

gkieley
30th June 2010, 11:53 AM
Yeah Jim... not really fun. The prickers and razor grass were nasty. Awesome radishes though.

Note to self.. when pulling a detached shock chord over a limb, 30 feet up..stay out of the way of the falling quick link. That 3/8ths link hit me right in the face. $*&#$@!*$^$#@%^!!!

Need to replace the forward tube of the booster section. After seeing your repair thread of Tim's Ultimate, this should be a piece of cake.

G

troj
30th June 2010, 12:16 PM
Note to self.. when pulling a detached shock chord over a limb, 30 feet up..stay out of the way of the falling quick link. That 3/8ths link hit me right in the face. $*&#$@!*$^$#@%^!!!

:y: I'm glad it didn't hit you in the eye -- that could do some damage! As is, I'm sure it didn't feel good. I refer to those as "vocabulary building experiences" -- you get to practice all those short words.


Need to replace the forward tube of the booster section. After seeing your repair thread of Tim's Ultimate, this should be a piece of cake.

Tell Jim it only took you 30 minutes, or he's gonna razz you about not doing it fast enough. :)

Jim did provide some great tips in that thread!

-Kevin

blackjack2564
30th June 2010, 03:25 PM
Sand 1 inch on both sides of all slots for external fillet adhesion.

Lay strap over 1 CR and mark center.

Transfer to inside of ring and file notch for recovery harness that will be glued to MM

pcotcher
30th June 2010, 04:27 PM
Looks great Jim! Now if I could just get somebody to answer me about getting my hands on one!

ECayemberg
30th June 2010, 06:59 PM
Nice build so far CJ! Can't wait to start building mine (DD) once the Von Karman NC and rings show up.

pcotcher; I just got of the phone with Tim. Although I didn't ask about the Extreme DarkStar, he picked up the phone nice and quick. Call the Wildman:)

-Eric-

blackjack2564
1st July 2010, 01:06 AM
Looks great Jim! Now if I could just get somebody to answer me about getting my hands on one!

The fortunate few that attended the last launches were able to get in on the pre-announcement/introduction sales that were only available to those in attendance.

These kits have not even been officially introduced yet. As usual I snatched one out of the production run while they were being kitted before any pricing or official release was done. Then began this build thread.

The demand is so high that a lucky few got them ahead of schedule.

I apologize for any confusion I may have caused and especially if I created any ill will. But on the other hand it appears Tim has a real winner here.

It "is" one great looking highly desirable rocket!

It fills the void needed for a sexy split fin design.


Tim is working on the release announcement as I type. We just got back from 5 weeks on the road with only a day here and there to catch up on back orders. In another day or two things will be back to normal and he will make the greatly anticipated release announcement

blackjack2564
2nd July 2010, 08:11 PM
A little birdie told me someone was NOT happy with the 4 inch Xtreme....!

Apparently it isn't BIG enough. There is now the first 6inch DarkStar being made for a megalomaniac! [would that be you George?] Guess that quick link to the head jarred you good.LOL

Congratulations, it will be a thing of beauty.

Anyhow back to the build.

I wasn't thinking and went ahead and notched the top CR and glued the recovery strap in. [1inch kevlar]

Then realized I was 1 CR short, due to this boneheaded stunt and wanted to finish the mock up.
I did this on the road, so what to do?

Make one Crazy Jim style out of masking tape! Took quite a few wraps, but it worked. So now if you ever need a CR in an emergency you know how to get by.

A careful look at the photo reveals the somewhat wider ring on top of bottom fin, that's the tape one.

blackjack2564
2nd July 2010, 08:24 PM
Anyhow this is how it SHOULD be done.
I forgot to take pics, so I opened another one to stage the photo's next to the finished one which was incorrect anyway.

Position the Cr's in there proper place next to the slots.

Notch top CR and slide it down to the top upper fin slot position.Don't glue it yet till we get the dry fit done.

Slide all Cr's on. Start at the bottom and tack it one with CA [superglue]

Then position the fins and slide upper ring down and tack it on.
Remember we will be injecting the internal fillets and do NOT want any glue leaking, hence a nice tight fit.

Then position the bottom CR for the upper fin in it's position and tack it in place.

Hold upper fins in position, slide upper CR down and tack it. Make sure the Kevlar strap fits BETWEEN 2 fins or you will be in big trouble later.

As usual, number the fins to their respective slots for a good fit. it just always seems to work better this way.

Before anyone asks.....yes that's a carbon Wildman 2 stager in the background......minimum diameter 3in. 75mm motors!!

blackjack2564
2nd July 2010, 08:58 PM
The next part of the build was done while we were on the road.

The RV was getting repaired and I was stuck with nothing to do, soooo.....build the rocket. So I "borrowed" a chair from the office and proceeded to build in front of the RV.

Did it in the repair bay, got some funny stares from the mechanics! NOT your typical build.

They were impressed.

blackjack2564
2nd July 2010, 09:10 PM
Remove fins and slide MM assembly into airframe.

Put fins through slots to check for fit, if all is well remove fins and assembly and glue rings into place, but NO glue where fins will touch.If not reposition rings to fit.

Then encapsulate the straps in the correct position, not as shown on the top of tube in pics, but as in the the one next to finished rocket!

gkieley
2nd July 2010, 09:22 PM
A little birdie told me someone was NOT happy with the 4 inch Xtreme....!

Apparently it isn't BIG enough. There is now the first 6inch DarkStar being made for a megalomaniac! [would that be you George?] Guess that quick link to the head jarred you good.LOL

Congratulations, it will be a thing of beauty.


After looking at that bad boy monster from LDRS last weekend :eek:... I said what the heck. I wanted to be the first on my block with a 6" version.

Tim talked me into to keeping the 4" as well.... maybe I'll do a double build thread.

blackjack2564
3rd July 2010, 09:20 PM
A new tip I came up with: while I was dry fitting my fins, I drew a line where they meet the body tube. When tacking the fins in with 5 minute, this will show that they are pushed all the way tight to the Motor Mount tube, preventing any leaks when I inject the internal fillets.

After talking to several builders in the field, I became aware many were having trouble with leakage and most of it was related to the fins not contacting the mm tube tightly.

Since there are 2 sets of fins to tack and align, it is easier to tack the smaller rear set on first.

blackjack2564
3rd July 2010, 09:39 PM
After getting the rear 3 done and cured, I simply eyeballed the upper 3 with the rear tacking them on also.

For those not to sure of their "just eyeball it " skill:
Use clamps, chip clips, cloths pins or anything else you can come up with, to hold a straight edge of some kind like a mixxing/popsicle stick, paint stirrer, pencil etc to align the 2 fins. Photos from the DS light build.

As you can see, I did alright without them.

One of the nice things about the g-12 tubing is being able to see right through it. Checking on my tack job, nice glue bead on each side of fin, ensuring a good seal.

blackjack2564
3rd July 2010, 09:56 PM
As usual, I like to have other things ready to glue up when building, so I don't waste epoxy.

Taking the already marked and sanded [80 grit] vent band and coupler/alt-bay, I mark the correct position in the middle by inserting it into a body tube and drawing a circle around it. Then tape around 1 of the circles. Keeps the glue from getting all over when pushing the vent band on.

Using the left over glue from fin tacking, smear some on the coupler and slide the vent band with a twisting motion[ to distribute the glue evenly] into position.

Make SURE the marks for drilling vents are BETWEEN the rivet drilling lines. [prevents air turbulence from rivets interfering with the air entering the vent holes] See pic 3

Then wipe off any excess glue so the tubes will push tight together when cured. Lot easier to wipe it off now than sand it off later!

blackjack2564
3rd July 2010, 10:10 PM
Did the vent band with glue left over from the lower set of fins.

Now will do the Av-bay bulk plates with glue left over from the upper set.

Take the pre-sanded bulk plates, smear some glue on each set, press together then stack on an eyebolt to cure.

Will leave them on the eyebolt while drilling the needed holes in them to assure alignment for future assembly.

Pantherjon
4th July 2010, 02:51 PM
Interesting build location!:roll:

Got the e-mal announcing the 54mm version..Sweet price..Waiting for the 75mm DD announcement!:D

Is there a RS file available? Would love to play around running sims on it!;)

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 03:16 AM
After fin tacking and vent band plus BPs it was on to NERRF.

I just wanted the rocket ready for display.

Got back to the shop to begin finishing in earnest.

First a few more tips on fillets:

To keep from making a mess in case of leaks when injecting. Tape both sides of 1 fin, covering the holes and seam between fin & body tube.

Turn this side down. Now when injecting the 2 top internal fillets, if anything leaks it cant go anywhere and make a mess. Instead you actually get another set of fillets on fin and body tube!

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 03:31 AM
Here's another tip for those seeking good looking,little sanding, no mess fillets:

USE TAPE!! [Kevin and Jon!!!LOL]

Lay the tool you are going to smooth them out with in the joint and mark where the edge of tool meets the fin and tube. Do it at the front and rear of fin/fins.Then tape on this line. The fillet will be in it's place & all the excess will land on the tape.

With a little practice there won't even be an edge. When you pull the fillet with the tool, dowel, spoon,etc., it will be smooth right to the edge of the tape!

Now you know my dirty little secret. No more excuses for ugly fillets. LOL

Pictures taken after the fact, but you get the idea.

Do this before you inject, that way you can do both internal and external sets at the same time.

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 03:49 AM
Now that we are all prepped,time to inject:

On this build, 2 pumps of West/ProLine or similar system, will be enough to inject all 4 fins.

Mix chopped carbon [ small pile about the size of a dime] into the epoxy after thoroughly mixing resin and hardener. You should mix carbon a good minute or two so it breaks up evenly into the epoxy.

Should look color of the hypo.[container I mixed in, is much larger than one in photo. this was just easier to set it on]

I use a 10ml or cc hypo [cc and ml are same] so 1/2 or 5ml is injected into each hole.

When looking through the MM,you can see it dispersed evenly on the right and clotted a little on the left, but the epoxy itself leveled out between the carbon piles with no runs or leaks.

So all is A-OK

Even on the masking tape CR. LOL [Larger one]

troj
5th July 2010, 05:01 AM
Here's another tip for those seeking good looking,little sanding, no mess fillets:

USE TAPE!! [Kevin and Jon!!! LOL]

Lay the tool you are going to smooth them out with in the joint and mark where the edge of tool meets the fin and tube. Do it at the front and rear of fin/fins.Then tape on this line. The fillet will be in it's place & all the excess will land on the tape.

With a little practice there won't even be an edge. When you pull the fillet with the tool, dowel, spoon,etc., it will be smooth right to the edge of the tape!

I did use tape... It's the practice on the technique that I need. Plus I need a better tool for making the fillets; I think I'll pick up a short piece of PVC specifically for that.

-Kevin

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 05:20 AM
As soon as I am done injecting the internals, start right in on the externals. No need to wait for cure if you see there is no major leaking. If there is then obviously you cannot continue with this, until you have fixed your mess.

You can use the same mixing cup this way. [I'm cheap]

Mix plenty of filler in with the epoxy. [I use west 406 silica]
More is better than not enough. Mix to THICK peanut butter consistency.

I show actual amount I used in 3 steps to get it correct. Squish any lumps against the side with mixing stick to break them up. the smoother the mix, the less sanding. I actually mix the fillet material a good 6-10 minutes to get it correct. In 3 phases ridding all the clumps in each stage.

Another tip:
Smooth it out as best you can with the stick while filling, and wipe off the excess a you smooth them out if you overfill. If you goof, just add some more and pull it smooth again.

For the DarkStar: 2 pumps once again will be plenty. Have the nose cone and bulkplate ready to use any leftover, if you want to keep from wasting it.

Last pic from a previous build.

Pantherjon
5th July 2010, 05:22 AM
Here's another tip for those seeking good looking,little sanding, no mess fillets:

USE TAPE!! [Kevin and Jon!!!LOL]



:rolleyes: I couldn't find it! :neener: But I did find the roll for tonight's fillets! :D

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 05:34 AM
Now pull it smooth in 1 steady even pressure stroke. Keeping the same angle with your tool.

If you have low or missed spots, just add some more and pull it out again. The trick is to do it in 1 even pull. Not play in it or try to fix 1 spot.

If there is a goof, add, then pull the whole fillet out again.

blackjack2564
5th July 2010, 05:42 AM
When satisfied with you fillet job, go ahead and pull the tape off.

If the material was mixed to the right consistency, there should be no problem.
It should come off cleanly.

Make sure to pull the tape back on itself as shown so you don't get it in the fresh fillet.

You can see plainly I got lots of excess on the tape. but no worries. The tape is spaced right, so I have a nice clean edge with no lip. THAT"S the trick to it.

Once the tape is off, you can see how smooth it is.

Any questions so far?

rockie
5th July 2010, 02:49 PM
Looking good, i also do it that way after watching you do it like that in some previous thread :)

blackjack2564
9th August 2010, 01:48 AM
Well I finally got around to painting the neeked DS over the past week.

Rustoleum paints.... primer white, metallic blue & sunflower yellow. [No Tim, nothing to do with the "dress"]

Wet sanded and clear coated .

It's just waiting for me to apply the vinyl. Get around to that soon.

GRIFFIN
9th August 2010, 01:57 AM
Looks Awesome, Will we see it fly at MWP8?

cjl
9th August 2010, 02:09 AM
Very nice. You should bring it to Airfest :D

sodmeister
9th August 2010, 03:13 AM
Nice ,very nice ! Great looking paint job ,nice combo with the blue & yellow.

I use the exact same method of applying fillets ,and love using the colloidal silica....great stuff.

Sincerely

Paul T

McKailas Dad
9th August 2010, 06:53 AM
C'mon! You're telling me you are the same guy that built this (http://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?t=8577)??? Or, is that dollar bill humungous?

dixontj93060
9th August 2010, 12:17 PM
metallic blue

Jim,

Very nice. Is that the Rustoleum Colbalt Blue?

-Tim

blackjack2564
9th August 2010, 04:32 PM
Yes it will fly at Airfest... on a L-2300 KBA.


And at MWP maybe in a drag race. If I can get some takers,maybe we will get Tim to come up with a deal on the motor!
Who wants in?

Airfest also ?

I think it was Cobalt Blue... it was the only blue they make it metallic if that helps.

Yes it 'tis I who also built these. 1 in every size that can fly on F's through P's ! [oops..... and micros]
Which by the way, even the big one [12inch] is now available as a Kit for those not weak of heart! Anyone want to drag race the big one?
Now that would be worth the price of admission!!!:clap::clap:

stickershock23
9th August 2010, 05:29 PM
Which by the way, even the big one [12inch] is now available as a Kit for those not weak of heart! Anyone want to drag race the big one?
Now that would be worth the price of admission!!!:clap::clap:


Ah man, now I gotta add another set of decals to my website... :y:

Looking good Jim.

Rocketman248
9th August 2010, 05:55 PM
Which by the way, even the big one [12inch] is now available as a Kit for those not weak of heart! Anyone want to drag race the big one?

I think I need a bigger car! :eek:

daveyfire
9th August 2010, 07:09 PM
And at MWP maybe in a drag race. If I can get some takers,maybe we will get Tim to come up with a deal on the motor!
Who wants in?

Yo Jim, I might be up for it depending on the motor deal and if I finish building in time :shock:

Nice paint work. Any tips for preventing blush while painting in the humid summer heat?

blackjack2564
12th August 2010, 01:22 AM
Nice paint work. Any tips for preventing blush while painting in the humid summer heat?

All painting, on this one,was done right on the concrete deck you see in picture, either in the sun or partial shade from tree.
I just put some newspaper down, and a cinder block over them to put rocket parts on, or get bottom of rocket high enough off the ground.

I have to deal with this all the time. [high humidity] What I do:

Paint late morning 10-12 or late afternoon 4-6.
The haze has burned off by then, or it's starting to cool down a bit. Stay out of the heat of the day. Parts are just to hot to paint.

In high humidity locations, it's at its worst early morning & evenings.

Put parts to be painted and the paint outside 15-20 minutes before starting to bring to ambient temp.
Putting rocket or paint that's been inside air conditioning is where some trouble can happen. The humidity wants to condense on the cool rocket or as you spray the cooler paint particles will transfer moisture in the air onto your finish. You can't see it but it's happening.

I would rather paint outside, in the sun, where it will cure and dry faster, than in a garage or building where moisture from high humidity [typically 85-95 where I live] has time to blush. Due to longer drying time in the shade.

Sometimes when temps reach 90-100, I'll paint in the shade, then move rocket into the sun to dry. But never move from inside to out during cure. [unless your in a garage or shed that's same ambient temp, no air conditioning] Moisture is always attracted to the cooler object.

I have had blushing begin, stopped painting, moved it into full sun and the sun burn it right out.

The only other major thing I do is:

After all my priming and prep.... I do 1 last light coat of primer. As soon as it's dry to touch [10-15] I hit it full on with finish coat. I have never had any blush on the 1st coat over primer, always when painting finish over finish.

Since you got to wait 24-48 hrs now with these re-formulated paints or re-coat in 1 hr. I'd rather save time and have some finish coat curing.

[If it's a 1 color job, you can get lucky and be finished first go round.]

THEN if it needs a little sanding you can see what you got and save a step or 2. I usually hit any rough spots with 600 wet and just clear coat it and be done.

If I do have any blush. STOP immediately and let it dry. Don't try to cover it up with more paint, only locks in more moisture making it worse.
Bite the bullet, put it in full sun. See what happens. If it disappears, continue on.
Worst case if you wait 45-50 minutes it's dry to touch, and you can still re-coat before deadline.
If the blush happens again. Just QUIT.
Some days you just ain't gonna win, pack it in and try later. No point in mucking it up.

This is for rattle cans.

If you doing automotive, chances are you got an inside setup and air conditioning so your good to go. I can't help you there.

WILDMANRS
12th August 2010, 07:46 PM
Yes it 'tis I who also built these
Ahem I thought you where just the sanding Bit$h on the big one .
Glad I didn't let you paint it . It would have been School bus yellow.
You are going to fly that with a Wimpdapter?
Thats against the Wildman oath.
Tim

GRIFFIN
13th August 2010, 12:57 AM
How about a few darkstar dragraces at Midwest Power.

ALL sizes

Just finished paint on mine.

dlb
13th August 2010, 04:57 AM
Ahem I thought you where just the sanding Bit$h on the big one .
Glad I didn't let you paint it . It would have been School bus yellow.
You are going to fly that with a Wimpdapter?
Thats against the Wildman oath.
Tim


:headbang:
He still whats a flip out STOP sign for the side ( deployed at Apogee ) maybe a few RED LEDs for flashing. Sorry JIM, hahahaha

daveyfire
13th August 2010, 05:55 AM
This is for rattle cans.

Excellent! I'm used to spraying in dry weather, so coming to the humid midwest has screwed with my (not great) painting abilities in the first place. Thanks for the thorough treatment!

blackjack2564
23rd August 2010, 02:18 AM
Finally got around to installing the vinyl over the weekend. So the DarkStar Xtreme is finally totally finished.

Came out pretty good, which usually means it will get torn up & disfigured cosmetically in 2 or 3 flights. Oh well, at least it looks good for the photo ops!

Get yours from our good rocket buddy Mark at StickerShock in any color that compliments your project!

Anyone got one going to Airfest want to play?

Same for Red Glare & Midwest Power?

GRIFFIN
23rd August 2010, 02:31 AM
Looks great Jim, I just picked mine up last Saturday. I would like to think it would be ready for MWP8.... but I think thats more of a pipe dream at this point. How about a Darkstar (standard) race on a big ''J"

stickershock23
23rd August 2010, 11:52 AM
Finally got around to installing the vinyl over the weekend. So the DarkStar Xtreme is finally totally finished.

Came out pretty good, which usually means it will get torn up & disfigured cosmetically in 2 or 3 flights. Oh well, at least it looks good for the photo ops!

Get yours from our good rocket buddy Mark at StickerShock in any color that compliments your project!

Anyone got one going to Airfest want to play?

Same for Red Glare & Midwest Power?

Wish I could make it.. I really need to move back east you guys know how to do it!

She looks AWESOME Jim! good luck with it!

Pantherjon
23rd August 2010, 03:00 PM
Anyone got one going to Airfest want to play?

Same for Red Glare & Midwest Power?

Looks great Jimbob!:cool: So, does this mean you are going to Airfest INSTEAD of Freedom Launch?:eek::confused2::jaw::y::eyepop::mad::p

Rocketman248
25th August 2010, 11:56 PM
What size parachute are you using? I'm having trouble fitting mine in the payload tube.

dlb
26th August 2010, 01:07 AM
Looks great Jimbob!:cool: So, does this mean you are going to Airfest INSTEAD of Freedom Launch?:eek::confused2::jaw::y::eyepop::mad::p

You got it!
Alot better waivers and if you want to launch it on a "M", thats not at Orangeburg.

Pantherjon
26th August 2010, 04:31 AM
What size parachute are you using? I'm having trouble fitting mine in the payload tube.

Jim is the master at parachute origami! :)

It's a fairly large chute..84 or 96" I think?:confused2:

Rocketman248
26th August 2010, 04:55 AM
Yeah, I've got an 84" from K and S. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it all in there. I thought about cutting about an inch off the nosecone shoulder, and about 1.5" off the coupler. Ultimately, I think I'm just going to order a 30-36" tube and be done with it. :rolleyes:

dixontj93060
26th August 2010, 12:58 PM
Yeah, I've got an 84" from K and S. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it all in there. I thought about cutting about an inch off the nosecone shoulder, and about 1.5" off the coupler. Ultimately, I think I'm just going to order a 30-36" tube and be done with it. :rolleyes:

You might consider an appropriately sized Spherachute -- they pack very tightly (and may be cheaper than a 36" FG tube).

troj
26th August 2010, 01:16 PM
As someone already called it, it's a form of origami. Thing is, if an IT nerd (me) can learn to do it, anyone can learn to do it. You just need someone to teach you.

I'm no pro, but if anyone is going to be at AirFest and needs help learning to pack a parachute, come find me. I'll do what I can to help.

A rigger buddy (giggling the whole time) made me a deployment bag for a Rocketman R12 that slips easily into a 4" airframe, and is about 8" long. The parachute and lines easily fit into the bag, if it's packed properly. I take up the whole bag when I pack it; my buddy takes up about 2/3 of it when he does it.

Technique and practice are the keys.

-Kevin

brianc
26th August 2010, 01:35 PM
I'm no pro, but if anyone is going to be at AirFest and needs help learning to pack a parachute, come find me. I'll do what I can to help.

Perhaps someone could video or photo document this session so your
technique could be shared broadly...

troj
26th August 2010, 01:47 PM
Perhaps someone could video or photo document this session so your
technique could be shared broadly...

Here's on bag getting packed (http://www.rocketryonline.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=94)

I do want to get more tutorials posted. It's all a matter of time; I need to get with Skippy (my evil twin) and take more pics of him packing parachutes.

-Kevin

stickershock23
26th August 2010, 02:55 PM
A video would be awesome.

I was scared of using a D-bag until I tried it. Now Thats all I use.

blackjack2564
26th August 2010, 05:40 PM
Perhaps someone could video or photo document this session so your
technique could be shared broadly...

I have done it several times both here and on the Planet. I'm terrible at doing searches,so this afternoon when I load up the DS I'll take pictures and post how I do it.

It's a Topflight 84, but I have used the Skyangle Classic II 60inch with no problems. You just have to fold it correctly.

I know there are some chute vendors with step by step on their site, just don't remember which.

Rocketman248
26th August 2010, 10:41 PM
Well, I fought with it for a few hours, and I just can't get it to fit, so I ordered a 32" section of tube. I could just put a smaller chute in, but my regular flying field has a bunch of old runways that are quite hard, so slower is better for me. :)

JDcluster
26th August 2010, 11:11 PM
How much TN do you have in there with the main chute?
I usually go no more than 12-15ft at most.

You could recess the NC bulkhead if you don't already have it installed?

I just started on mine today & have a few upgrades in mind...

What's with the dinky 1/8 quick links; to attach your luggage tags when bringing it on a plane?



JD



Yeah, I've got an 84" from K and S. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it all in there. I thought about cutting about an inch off the nosecone shoulder, and about 1.5" off the coupler. Ultimately, I think I'm just going to order a 30-36" tube and be done with it. :rolleyes:

stickershock23
26th August 2010, 11:42 PM
What's with the dinky 1/8 quick links; to attach your luggage tags when bringing it on a plane?

JD

:gavel::gavel:

pcotcher
14th September 2010, 10:38 PM
Where are you guys getting your chopped carbon fiber? I've been all over the recommended composite sites her, and have yet to find that as an available product. I can find all manner of other fillers, but no chopped CF. Wish that commonwealth or somebody like that carried it, as I would like to combine this with some other orders...

Thanks!


Now that we are all prepped,time to inject:

On this build, 2 pumps of West/ProLine or similar system, will be enough to inject all 4 fins.

Mix chopped carbon [ small pile about the size of a dime] into the epoxy after thoroughly mixing resin and hardener. You should mix carbon a good minute or two so it breaks up evenly into the epoxy.

Should look color of the hypo.[container I mixed in, is much larger than one in photo. this was just easier to set it on]

I use a 10ml or cc hypo [cc and ml are same] so 1/2 or 5ml is injected into each hole.

When looking through the MM,you can see it dispersed evenly on the right and clotted a little on the left, but the epoxy itself leveled out between the carbon piles with no runs or leaks.

So all is A-OK

Even on the masking tape CR. LOL [Larger one]

GRIFFIN
14th September 2010, 10:46 PM
Where are you guys getting your chopped carbon fiber? I've been all over the recommended composite sites her, and have yet to find that as an available product. I can find all manner of other fillers, but no chopped CF. Wish that commonwealth or somebody like that carried it, as I would like to combine this with some other orders...

Thanks!

Tim @ wildman has it in stock......buy a Darkstar Extreme and have it shipped with that order :)

Pantherjon
15th September 2010, 01:00 AM
Where are you guys getting your chopped carbon fiber? I've been all over the recommended composite sites her, and have yet to find that as an available product. I can find all manner of other fillers, but no chopped CF. Wish that commonwealth or somebody like that carried it, as I would like to combine this with some other orders...

Thanks!

Well, you can do it like I did..Get a small section of CF cloth, pluck out a few thread strands, then carefully chop the threads into 1/16-1/8" lengths..It is a bit tedious..Oh, and don't have a ceiling fan going in the room or you will get little CF fibers floating all over the place:rolleyes:

Or, do as Griffin says and order it from Wildman..Much easier...